Posts Tagged ‘passap’

Passap Creative Slip and Tuck


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My friend Jacqui and I were discussing the Passap Knitting Machine and what it can do. She told me that there was an article in KnitWords Magazine #1, 1997 Summer on knitting two motifs side by side and one motif was slip stitch and one motif was tuck. The article is written by Katherine Geiger and she sounds just like me. She was so excited figuring this out and seeing what this Passap 6000 can do!
I just had to try this. In the article Katherine has a design that she made . I put it into win/crea and downloaded it. This is sample 1. The diamonds are tuck and the zig zag is slip.
How unique is that? The technique used is 129 (or 179)and when it says to change to KX, ignore the console and put UX setting on front lock.
The OX and UX settings slip and tuck in different directions. So when she made her pattern she starts the pattern that she wants to slip on the odd numbered lines and tuck motifs on even numbered lines with a blank row in-between each row of each of the designs. What happens is that when one motif tucks, the slip motif is inactive. When the slip motif is active the tuck motif is inactive. It was fun to watch while knitting. You use one color and when you knit row one you will only see needles selected for motif one. After knitting row 1, the needles selected are motif 2. Then when you knit the next two rows, you will see motif 1 and then motif two. The pushers must be in work under all the front bed needles.
Katherine then suggests using a technique in the manual from 1000 to 1034. Pick your pattern and use technique 149. Ignore the console and use UX. Knitting with these settings gives you a fabric that she calls Loopy Lace. The stitch formation is such that it is being slipped first and then tucked giving a more pronounced look to the pattern. I used the same technique but used two different patterns to see how they each looked.
In the fourth sample she suggests using OX and the fabric looks so similar to fine lace knitted on the Japanese machines. The great thing is you don’t have to use a lace carriage, you just put in black strippers and knit away!
In sample 2, I picked pattern 1032 and technique 149 and UX
In sample 3 I picked pattern 1028 and technique 149 and UX.
In sample 4 I used pattern 1028 and technique 149 and OX
These samples are all knitted single bed.
I hope you try it. I think the one fabric sort of looks like garter stitch that the Brother G carriage knits. If you want more detailed information on how to do this, just email me.

Passap Machine, Changing from Rib to Full Double Bed-Eliminating the “holes”


DSCF4229In a book I have called The Knitting Machine Textbook:Using the Passap E6000 by Marika Simon I came across an article and decided to read it.  Imagine that.  I have seen a lot of people asking how to eliminate the holes after knitting rib and going into full needle rib. Well, in this book there are three ways to do it and you use the console. What? Now you have my attention.

Sample one is knitted and it comes out with holes between the ribbing and the main garment. It can be decorative but undesirable in other instances. In the book, sample 2 says “Reducing the size of the holes. Sample 3 says Further reducing the holes and Sample 4 says Eliminating the holes completely.
In the book the rib is knitted with two strands of yarn and when you transfer to full needle , she says to only use one strand of yarn. Well, I always knit with two strands so my first four samples are knitted with 2 strands throughout. When I knitted sample 2,3 & 4 there were no holes at all!
So I went back and knitted the first and second samples changing to one strand after the rib and now I see why they had the headings that they did. When changing to one strand the holes still show up in sample 2. See the picture with 2 samples. I did not do sample 3 and 4 because I know which one I will use. It will be #4 .
Sample one:The console is programmed with the long stitch technique 117. A 1X1 rib is knitted first. Then the needles are all brought into work . You program the console answering all the questions and setting the correct numbers of needles and then knit. Large holes appear.
Sample two : Knit the 1X1 rib, change to one strand of yarn, bring all needles into work and knit 4 rows of CX/CX . Then program the console for technique 117 and start knitting.
Sample 3: Knit the rib but stop the lock on the left side and change the tension to 5 and knit one row. Put all of the needles into work and take the heel of the loop on the purl stitches on the front bed and put onto the empty needles on the back bed. Set tension back to 3 , Program the console for 117 and knit.
Sample 4: Knit the rib and stop on the left side to raise the tension 2 numbers. Take the heel of the purl stitches on front bed and put on the back bed and vice versa. Knit one row at tension 4 and one row at tension 3(original tension) Program the console for 117 and knit.This is the way I have always done it except I have never knitted the long stitch .This has changed my mind. I really like the weight of the fabric using one strand of 2/24 for the garment using technique 117.
If you would like more detailed instructions on trying these, please email me. Otherwise, if you don’t want any holes going from rib to full needle rib, use the last technique and you don’t even have to use technique 117. I used to do this on the Brother and never knitted the two rows after all the transfers and it came out very nice.

 

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Passap Lapghan using 3 color techniques


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Ha, ha, fooled you again. Here is my knitted strip of techniques for a three color design. It is shorter and took 918rows of knitting. I used 60 stitches and I knit 102 rows of each. I knitted techniques 195 to 200. Then the last three are 204,205 and 206.

I also had to learn how to download a 3 color pattern that is in the console. I realized I had never done this. These are the ones with the asterisks next to them in the pattern book.   I used pattern 1285 and added 1286. I wrote this down programming the console to downloading to locks. If you would like a copy, please email me. If you would also like the information to attach to your strips of knitting, if you do one, email me for that as well.

The strangest of the techniques are 204,205 and 206.(bottom 3) In the picture you can see a blister type effect that is more pronounced in the last one. The book calls this a pin tuck effect. These three techniques require back lock changes. In #204 you knit 2 rows of color one on LX/N, 2 rows of color 2 on LX/N, and you knit 4 rows of color three on LX/BX. In other words, you are knitting 8 rows for one row of knitting. On #205 you will do the same with colors one and two and then you will knit 6 rows of color 3 on LX/BX. In this one you are knitting 10 rows for each row. On #206 you will do the same with colors one and two and then knit 8 rows of color 3 on LX/BX. This knits 12 rows for one row of knitting. All three of these techniques use black strippers. Now I don’t know if I did the last three right so I am going to go back and try something different to see if they look the same. On the back bed you only have four pushers in work , two on each end. It also might look strange to me because of the pattern I chose. I know that when I give up this machine, I still will not know everything it can do!!

Passap Afghan of Many Techniques


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Bet you thought you were going to see another large afghan. Well this strip of techniques was the length of an afghan . I knitted techniques 180 to 191 . I knitted 21 rows for each technique and that came to 84 knitted rows . I used 60 stitches, the same pattern, same tension, same amount of rows. I typed up the techniques, put in the settings and pusher information. I laminated the information and attached with a yarn that is strong like ravel cord so they won’t come off. I am doing this for a friend that I am helping with the E6000.  This shows her the backs and the sizes when she chooses an afghan. I made an afghan using the Fairisle Fantasy but she wanted it in a lap blanket so we looked at the strip and chose a different technique. It came out perfect for her but we also shortened the pattern as well.

I learned several things doing this. My arm is killing me. Hahahaha, just kidding. First, I love this machine. Lol  Second, it took me longer to do than an afghan since you have to reprogram every technique and set the pushers on the back bed in or out of the rail. You can see the widest one and it is technique 186 which is the fantasy fairisle. What surprises me is that you don’t see , or I should say, I don’t see many afghans made using the last four techniques 188-191. You have to change the back lock every two rows on a couple of them but it is not confusing. The console tells you when to change. Techniques 188 to 191 are closer in width to the fantasy fairisle . Also notice that the technique 181 has a solid back. I also knitted technique 185 for the first time which is the long stitch or summer fairisle and I like it. It is amazing how one pattern can look so different in every one of the techniques. This also gives you an idea of distortion using different techniques.

Also, I have two little cutters on my other knitting machine carriages for cutting the yarn . They are great and I don’t have to pick up a pair of scissors. I bought these years ago for a dollar and have not found them since. A couple of weeks ago I went to a sewing expo in Cleveland and I found this( I should say my friend found it) . It was $7.95 and I have it mounted on top of my passap lock. It is not as nice as my cheapie but it sure does the trick for cutting my yarn. 🙂 It has a self stick backing.

Passap Vertical Ripple Racking Pattern


Vertical Ripple One Color

Vertical Ripple One Color

Vertical Ripple with 2 Color Vertical Stripes

Vertical Ripple with 2 Color Vertical Stripes

OMG, I found the directions for these patterns in the 1995 Passap University Book? The huge one with about 300 pages. The author of this pattern is Teryl Hollins . This is so unique I had to do the first two and share them with you before doing the others. These can be done on the Passap E 6000 and the DM-80 without the deco.  I tried the first time using a solid color but used two strands of 224. It was too thick. It draped nicely and  I would knit it with that yarn if I wanted a scarf for walking the dog . The blue solid is a 2/8 yarn I believe and it worked nicely. If you look up close at the patterns (click on picture) you can see the racking every two rows.  Now don’t say “yuck” I don’t like racking. No problem. With the two color it is easier. The needles are in correct needle set up according to the needle rule. Then you knit two rows with color one and rack the handle to the left and knit the second color. If you forget you just have to look at the needle set up. If it is correct it is color one to knit. If it is out of correct needle rule you knit with the second color. So now I try the two color and I can’t figure how it comes out the way it does(yes I can :)) On the two colors I used one strand of 224 for each color and it comes out so nice and soft . It is really strange because you change colors every two rows and rack every two rows and you get VERTICAL stripes instead of horizontal! And….on one side where the mauve color is , it is white on the opposite side.  If you try this make sure your mast tension is good so that you don’t get edge loops.

 

The E6000 uses pattern 1128 and technique 129 and the DM 80 just does a manual set up.  The settings for the 6000 are AX/KX and the DM80 is AX/AX.

To set up the pushers on both beds you put the wracking handle up after the SX/GX rows of setting up pattern. On the BB you set up five pushers in work and five out of work across the row. On the FB you do the same with the first five in work and the next five out of work. Then you put the racking handle down and start to knit. Knit 2 rows, rack 1 turn left, knit 2 rows rack one turn to right. Repeat.

If you would like more detailed instructions email me. I hope you try this because it was fun and the fabric it produces is pretty.

 

Mini Stocking Using Carpet Stitch and Stitch Ditcher


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I had two reasons for making this, well actually three. First one was to try the stitch ditcher and it was really quick! I did not use a technique like the directions said. I just used setting FX on the back bed and CX on the front bed. This way the whole row is loops.

Second, I forgot how to wrap and use pushers for short rowing. My mistake was that I was starting with all pushers out of work instead of in work. I made a second witch on the passap and it was really quick but when I got to the little feet I could not remember how to wrap the stitches to avoid a hole. So I took them off the passap and put on the Brother to finish. I cheated. However, it made me get the book out to do it so that is a good thing.

Third, they will be for sale in my Etsy shop. 🙂