Posts Tagged ‘Passap Neckline’

Passap Cut and Sew Neckline

passap neckline

Tina, this posting is for you. 🙂
Tina asked me if I all of my work was cut and sew(necklines)
I told her that I did knit one sweater and divided the work at the neck and finished each side. Would I do it again? Absolutely not. I am a definite believer in cut and sew for passap double bed work.
I used the side of a scarf that I started and did not like so you will see the stitches going sideways. lol Ladies, get your tension swatches out and lets try this technique.

Most of my sweaters I made were finished with the following technique that I will share with you. I just know it as the sandwich neckline. I believe it might also be called the commercial neckline. I have had this information for over 30 years so it has been around.
I read somewhere that a neckline will make or break a sweater and I believe that to be true. You can also add button and buttonhole bands and cuffs using this sandwich technique. I did this on a blue diamonte sweater that was posted on my blog.

The first step is to just knit the front of your sweater straight up from the armholes. Then take the shoulders off on separate pieces of waste yarn. Then take the middle neck stitches off on waste yarn. You will join one shoulder and then figure the number of stitches for your ribbing.

You can make neck templates from cardboard by using your favorite sweaters to see how much of a drop you like. I don’t like ribbing that chokes me so my templates are around 3 inches with a two inch tall ribbing. I also like the look of a 2 by 2 rib and you get more stretch so it is not too tight going over your head.
My sample is a 1 by 1. The ribbing is double so if you want a one inch ribbing and your gauge is 12 rows to one inch, you would knit 24 rows. My sample is 22 rows.

I always do tension swatches and launder the fabric and wait a day before knitting.
That way I know how many shoulder and neck stitches I will have to take off separately on waste yarn.
When I knit the back of my sweater I do a one inch drop. I do the same as for the front neckline but just make a straight line one inch from edge and angle the line up to the shoulders. When you see how the front is done this will make sense to you.

I have pictures showing you how I do this along with some more instructions in the drop box link below.



My next posting will be the cut and sew without the sandwich. I have added a pdf file with both of these instructions if you want to try them . I also have a sheet that explains the procedure in detail. If you have any problems or questions, feel free to email me. Hope you try it!
Happy Knitting!

Passap Seamless Mitered V-Neckband by Penny Ragland

I have not had a computer for five days and I have some items to post. Hope you don’t unsubscribe to my emails! lol

I LOVE, LOVE, LOVE  this seamless neckband. It is in Machine Knitters Source 2000 May/June issue page 50.  It was so easy but while doing it I could not figure out how this was going to come out. You start on waste yarn double bed cast on and then switch to  circular knitting. Then you will knit the band(still circular) bringing pushers into work and out of work on the front bed for the increases and decreases. The band starts with garment color knitting 2 rows and then decreasing one stitch on each bed on left side only 10 times(total of 20 rows.) Then knit two rows at larger tension for turning rows and then start decreases. No pushers on the back bed. When you are finished with the band you will steam the waste yarn only.


Then you cut the last row of knitting that was done N/N setting . the seam opens up. Then you do the same with the cast on edge as in the second picture down.



Then you fold the band and this is what you end up with!


I just did a quick cut and sew and backstitched(quickly and sloppily I might add) to see what the finished look would be. I used a tension swatch as the sweater front and did not even cut a good V in the fabric. I would use this on a sweater but would not do the cut and sew.



This last picture shows the other side of the band and I think that would look even nicer than the side I used.

I believe you can do this on the Brother also though I have not tried it. If you have a Brother, you would use the P lever to left of machine where racking nob is so that the needles are directly opposite one another for the circular rows. BUT when you go to do the regular rows of knitting at the end, remember to change the pitch to H so the needles don’t crash into each other.