Posts Tagged ‘passap machine’

Passap Afghan of Many Techniques


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Bet you thought you were going to see another large afghan. Well this strip of techniques was the length of an afghan . I knitted techniques 180 to 191 . I knitted 21 rows for each technique and that came to 84 knitted rows . I used 60 stitches, the same pattern, same tension, same amount of rows. I typed up the techniques, put in the settings and pusher information. I laminated the information and attached with a yarn that is strong like ravel cord so they won’t come off. I am doing this for a friend that I am helping with the E6000.  This shows her the backs and the sizes when she chooses an afghan. I made an afghan using the Fairisle Fantasy but she wanted it in a lap blanket so we looked at the strip and chose a different technique. It came out perfect for her but we also shortened the pattern as well.

I learned several things doing this. My arm is killing me. Hahahaha, just kidding. First, I love this machine. Lol  Second, it took me longer to do than an afghan since you have to reprogram every technique and set the pushers on the back bed in or out of the rail. You can see the widest one and it is technique 186 which is the fantasy fairisle. What surprises me is that you don’t see , or I should say, I don’t see many afghans made using the last four techniques 188-191. You have to change the back lock every two rows on a couple of them but it is not confusing. The console tells you when to change. Techniques 188 to 191 are closer in width to the fantasy fairisle . Also notice that the technique 181 has a solid back. I also knitted technique 185 for the first time which is the long stitch or summer fairisle and I like it. It is amazing how one pattern can look so different in every one of the techniques. This also gives you an idea of distortion using different techniques.

Also, I have two little cutters on my other knitting machine carriages for cutting the yarn . They are great and I don’t have to pick up a pair of scissors. I bought these years ago for a dollar and have not found them since. A couple of weeks ago I went to a sewing expo in Cleveland and I found this( I should say my friend found it) . It was $7.95 and I have it mounted on top of my passap lock. It is not as nice as my cheapie but it sure does the trick for cutting my yarn. 🙂 It has a self stick backing.

Passap vs Brother Placemat by Tricia Shafer


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I made this  Tricia Shafer plated place mat(top picture)  on the Brother years ago and I liked it. I decided to make it again. When I finished, I decided to try to duplicate it on the Passap. And that is when I found out I can’t. (Notice , I said “I can’t” , maybe someone else can) I also found out from a friend in Arizona that there is a plating attachment for the passap, though rare to find.

I made the placemat on the Brother with two strands of Estillo for both yarns . On the botton one made on the passap I used one strand of Diamonte. I tried two strands of Estillo to start and I think I had problems because I did not have the right tensions. Looking back now, I bet it would be the same size as the first one if I did use the 2 strands of estillo.

Here are the comparisons . The plated mat is heavier and had a great shape when it came off the machine.  The passap was made just using blue diamonte using the same amount of stitches . The passap mat is smaller by about one and a half inches but it still is a nice size. The passap mat is not as nice shaped and is much lighter. The pattern came out nice on both mats done on different machines. So, I have to give the vote to Brother just because I don’t have the plating attachment for the Passap. 😦

To make this on the passap, I cast on N/N 1/1  and knitted the two CX 2../2.. rows and the N/N 5/5 row and then I transferred stitches from the front bed to the back bed.

Below is the  set up on the front bed.(of course you will have more needles than the diagram) The ends have 2 needles in work . The dots are the needles out of work.The back bed has all of the needles in work and the racking handle is down while knitting. You will put it up when transferring the stitches so the needles line up at the beginning transfers.

I cast on 63-63 on front bed and one less on back bed so the end needles are on the front bed. After transferring the front bed stitches to the back bed,(if you have one left over double up the stitches so that both ends look like the diagram below) put those needles out of work and put pushers in work under the remaining needles in work. Set locks to LX/N. I set the back bed tension to 5 and the front bed tension to 3. On the Brother the tensions were 7 on the main bed and 3 on the ribber. The sequence is six rows of knitting at LX/N and then 2 rows of LX/GX so that only the front bed needles knit.ALSO:in her pattern , Tricia  only does two rows of knitting instead of six between the  rows , two times,and you can see that in the pattern. There are three lines close together dividing the mat in 3. There are 158 rows of knitting . To finish transfer the front bed stitches to the back bed and bind off the stitches.

11.1.111.1.1.1.1.1.111.1.1.1.1.1.111.1.11

 

Passap Diamond Within A Diamond


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I was reading an article called Queen of Diamonds by Irene Krieger in Machine Knitting News magazine August 2002 . I looked at this diamond and thought , that’s too easy so lets do the one design next to it. I could not grasp how to do the design I wanted to do  and thought I better try the  “easy” diamond design first to see if it would turn on the light bulb in my brain. OMG!!! The article just tells you how she added texture and some of what she did to arrive at the design. She does not give needle set up or what needles go  on the front or back bed. I sort of assumed it was done on a standard machine but had to try the passap because I love it. (Did I ever mention that? lol)It took me three times before I finally got it. I think it would take me even longer  to  write out the instructions !! haha

You start out doing the eyelet transfer on the front bed. When you move L1  needle to L2 on the same bed, you then bring one needle into work on the back bed opposite the hole.(racking handle up) Then knit four rows. On the next row you take the stitches on either side of the first eyelet(L2, R1) on the front bed and put them on the stitch next to them (L2 to L3 and R1 to R2). Then you pull needles on the back bed forward into the empty spaces. You continue until there are nine needles on the back bed. This is the purl area around the middle “knitted” diamond. Then the fun begins!!! While you are moving the end stitches out on the front bed for the big diamond, now you will start the middle diamond  by moving those stitches to the front bed! Sound confusing? It was and is. My sample is larger because I went wider with the diamond .(And yes, it was a mistake)

The reason that I like this design is because the rest of the garment would be in knit and that is a lot easier sewing the side seams than if it were the purl side. I probably won’t make anything using this design but did you ever wonder how something was done and just had to try it? I know a lot of you can think outside of the box and could come up with lots of ideas where to use this.

Now, I have to go try the design next to this one that I wanted to start with first  and see if I can figure it out after doing this “easy” one. Hah

If enough of you want me to write the instructions on this, I will do it. Just let me know. 🙂

Passap Valentine Mug Rugs, New On


 

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Hahahaha, bet you did not expect to see more of these. lol These two designs are different from the one I made last year. Remember, these little projects help you in getting to know your machine , casting on , programming and casting off. And they make great little “thinking of you” gifts.

I have given the instructions and files in my drop box. In the top one I don’t like my bind off. I knitted 2 CX rows and one N/N row and then kitchener stitched the open stitches. On the second one on the bottom I just knit two rows of N/N at the same tension and did the kitchener stitch and the top and bottom white look about even. I would suggest this finish on both of them if you make them. The top one is 29 rows and the bottom one is 26 rows so the top one is a little longer than the bottom one.

Remember, tensions are different on all machines. I used a tension 3 and most of my others are tension 3..   so….I am thinking that the mast tension discs might wear out some. I think mine are since I had to turn them to a higher number than 5.

Feel free to change the files if you don’t like them. I may go in and make the bottom red heart 9 stitches wide on each side instead of the 8 stitches that I have.

One file is called 3 heart mug rug and the other is called Heart 4 Mug Rug. I have two bmp files and one stp file.

Happy VD  🙂  This would be a nice gift with a red coffee cup to go with it filled with chocolate candy. Yum! Preferably dark chocolate. Yum! Yum!

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/fdt66f97qwauwzo/AAD7vXTM4eHqkKfO-0TbP_E9a?dl=0

Passap Headband Information


I had several people email me about this head band. One very nice lady asked if I had knitted it the way the pattern said. I was intrigued as to why she would ask that. It seems that it is difficult to knit this way with the first row on the back bed and the rest of the work(stockinette) on the front bed until the end.  And she was SOOOOOOOOOO right!!! LOL

I had trouble with this one and I believe it was because the yarn I used on this one was a little thicker than Tamm 3 ply which is what the pattern called for. The blue band is 3 ply by Tamm and I did not have any problems once I passed the 2nd row.

So what do I suggest if you want to try this? I did my first zig zag row at tension 1../1..  Hang a comb! I tried without doing that and the stitches pop up on the following rows.The next row was GX/N and knitted back to the right at tension 3. Bring all front bed needles into work, tension 5 and knit 20 rows. I have a whole set of stainless steel rods my brother in law made me and I laid one in-between the beds at row ten and hung weights on both ends(light Brother claw weights) I do believe this is what saved me from stitches popping up. I think you could use a wooden dowel rod and hang weights  on the ends.  I will caution you if you open the beds just to look at your work. It will be almost impossible to close the beds if you don’t put something between them to hold the work down! I also have a thin piece of plastic like a large credit card and I pushed the stitches down every couple of rows on this one. On my blue one I did not have to do it at all. I posted pictures to show you how it looks while knitting.

DO NOT criticize my dirty needle beds or I won’t post anymore!!!!    🙂

So if you really feel you need to conquer this technique, by all means try it on a smaller amount of needles so you don’t get totally frustrated. However, I just made another headband and I knitted   it on the front bed only and it came out the same size and I had the whole band knitted in 10 minutes. Hahahahaha The finish took a little bit more time but no frustration, just a little more time. However, overall, I believe the single bed band was faster. I will be posting a picture of it tomorrow along with instructions.

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Another Passap Mug Rug


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Hahahahaha, bet you did not want to open your email from me just to see another mug rug.   🙂

I made this baby afghan lovely yesterday. I told my husband I was making it for someone and needed an hour of uninterrupted time. I  surprised myself since I finished it in 32 minutes…..without a motor.

Now, I have shown this before and directions are posted in my blog. I have to tell you why I made it. My friend and I were in JoAnn fabrics and I saw a pattern for sale for an 18 inch doll. (Sister’s granddaughter has one and now making clothes for it) I asked the clerk if the sale included the doll pattern and she said she thought so but to check on the price check scanner in the store. I did and got the shock  of my life. The pattern was on sale at 50% off and the sale price was $13.70!!!!! I put it back and my friend and I started to have a discussion about how expensive patterns are nowadays. A woman approached the two of us and said she could not help but overhear our discussion abut the prices of doll clothes patterns. She then told us she has a ton of them at home along with her sister’s collection and we were more than welcome to them for free if we come and get them. She said she would like to know that someone used them instead of throwing them away. Whooooo Hoooooo……so we are going tomorrow to pick them up.

So in talking to her she said her eyes are failing and she does not sew too much any more and all of the children are grown. She mentioned that a grandson was  born in the family a month ago. So I decided since she was not charging us, I would make this afghan for her to give for the little baby boy.

On second thought, I could give her some sets of mug rugs to say thank you !!!!!!! LOL

Passap Christmas Tree Mug Rug


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Okay, I know you are getting tired of my mug rugs but just had to share this one since I like it so much. I found the tree on a site and added the rest to make this .

I just made four for my guests on Christmas day so they can put their drinks on them.

At first I thought the site I found the design on  was a blog page but when I downloaded a translation app, it looks like it is a site for women. You MUST visit this site. It has the most beautiful knitted sweaters and designs. If you go on the home page, at the top knitting is under the home tab. Also look at the other tabs. There are designs for mug rugs. I don’t see any information on buying anything so still not sure what the site is for. I just made four for my guests on Christmas day so they can put their drinks on them.

Here is the link. Make sure you scroll all the way down the page to see all the beautiful items.

http://woman7.ru/rukol/uzori-spicami/1616-novogodnie-motivi-spicami.html

My mug rug is 39 stitches by 31 rows. 3 colors. 2 strands of 2/24 yarn. Technique 197. I had red as color one, green as color 2 and white as third eyelet color. I did cast on in red. N/N row was 1…/1…, two rows of CX/CX tension 2../2.. and last row of N/N and mug rug tension 3../3.. To finish, I just knitted two rows of N/N at same tension of 3../3.. and then took off with waste yarn knitting circular. I kitchener stitched to finish. To set up, use L19-R20.

When you finish the cast on and start to knit the first row, the end two pushers should be in the up position . If they are, the pattern is centered. In the pattern you will notice that row one has one red stitch on each end.

I have the files in my drop box at this link. You will see two stp files. One file has two e’s in name and one has one e in name. There are two designs for you. There is one bmp file for win/crea users.

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/fdt66f97qwauwzo/AAD7vXTM4eHqkKfO-0TbP_E9a?dl=0

 

 

 

Passap China Pattern Sweater


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I just finished knitting this  sweater following a pattern  called China Pattern Jacket . It is in Modern Machine Knitting magazine dated June of 1992 . I made this on the Passap E6000 and made lots of modifications. I made it a sweater instead of a jacket. I used win/crea to change the patterns of the leaves so that they were not split in the front like the original pattern. I also spaced them so that they were not in the seams of the sweater and the sleeves. I patterned the neckband so that the design did not go into the buttonhole. There is only one buttonhole in the band at the neck. The yarn I used was Diamonte in Wedgwood Blue and Cream.

Now I am going to tell you that I absolutely love my E6000 BUT ….now I don’t feel like a traitor to Brother machines. This would have been a breeze on the Brother. The only reason I used the Passap was to try fair isle and I won’t do it again. 🙂  EVER!  It is very confusing doing patterns since you have four rows to knit for one row. I also had to keep raising pushers on the ends when I knitted the second color. (like the end needle selection that Brother has). Wrapping was out of the question .

And FLOATS? OMG they are huge. I had to latch tool up behind the flowers to pull the floats in so that there were no gaps between the background and the pattern. I don’t see how that can be avoided using any machine with this pattern though. Well, unless it was knitted in double  jacquard.

I sort of like the jacket better but short items don’t look good on me. I do have to say that this is one of the best fitting sweaters I have ever made and it feels good on me. The sleeves are my perfect length also.

So if a Passap is the only machine you have, this can be done.

 

 

Passap V Neck Cardigan-Inspiration to Outcome


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Well, as you can tell, the outcome looks nothing like the inspiration. LOL Here is how it started. I saw this sweater(bottom picture) and thought about making it in Can Cun on my Brother 940 since lace is really easy to do on that machine. Then I changed my mind and decided to use Main Jaggerspun wool 2/8 instead of CanCun. I had made a vest in that yarn and I liked the way the lace knitted with it.(shown in my blog in 2/11) I picked my color of wool and threaded up the machine. So I went to look for the information on the vest to see what tension I used so I could knit my swatch. While looking for the information I came across the sample of the hem I tried on the passap from a passap magazine .(this is shown in my blog in 9/2011) I made that sample in Diamonte so I decided to use that yarn and design as the hem for the lace. And now I am off to knit it on the passap.  I decided on five inches for the design.  I took my measurements from my swatch and drew up the pattern . After I finished the front and back and joined them at the shoulders, it hit me that I think a crocheted neckline would look funny. Oh well, worry about that later. Hahaha
Now I have to do the sleeves but I don’t want to do increases in the ribbing part because you knit circular , then transfer to a 2 by 2 rib and then knit circular again . My cuff came out to 3 inches so I subtracted that length from the arm length and ended up doing more increases in a shorter distance to get the right width at the underarm.  I finish that and join the sleeves. While knitting the sleeves I thought that for the front band I would use the same design I used for the bottom and cuffs but instead of doing the last circular rows, I did the “sandwhich ” join and it ended up being really easy to do.

While doing the bands, I didn’t want to bring the band down to the bottom five inches because I wanted to leave that open . I just wanted three buttons . So I left the rib edges unfinished . I did latch tool crochet through the first and second stitch to give it a little more thickness.
I wanted something casual and this ended up being a little more dressy but at least the sweater was not a loss.
I did have something funny happen. It is so hard to tell how the length of the sleeves will feel until the sweater is sewn together. So I did the bands and sewed the side seams and OMG, the arms were down to the floor….well….not to the floor but they were a good inch too long. I left my sewing room and contemplated  a remedy. It is not a big deal to shorten the sleeve but I did not know how I was going to join the cuff. I did not want to attach the rib and then  bind off. Okay, it hit me that I could do the cuff like the front bands. I had some things to do  and put this on hold. Then I got the idea to leave the seams open and wash and dry it like my swatch. I did that and the arms came out perfect length! SO, it does pay to do swatches. I am so glad I did not shorten and then end up having 3/4 sleeves.

I needed a simple one stitch buttonhole and my next post will show what I did. I found the directions in a ribber book but the explanation made no sense until I tried it. I wanted to use small buttons and this was perfect for it.

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Passap Double Jacquard Square Neck Tunic


Front of Passap DJ Tunic Sweater

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Side view showing ribbing on sleeve and side seam

I tried the square neckline in my last posting because I wanted to make a square necked tunic.  I used Bramwell’s Duo Magic in olive green and wood pigeon! What color is that you ask? It is like a beige color. I used pattern 1289 (8 stitches by 8 rows)in the passap pattern book and technique 183. After I figured the number of stitches I needed I realized it was the perfect amount for the sides to match….a first for me.

I did the neck ribbing after I finished the front .  I sort of thought it looked plain and matronly but I continued to knit the back  .  I figured out how to knit the back with a one inch drop without doing a cut and sew. Then I knit the back rib .

I have not done a lot of double bed knitting of garments but I thought the shoulder seam would be thick with four sets of stitches. I decided to make a band of ribbing that would mask that if it happened. I hung the shoulder stitches right sides together with the ribbing in-between. I then cast off. The shoulder seam is really flat . Now I am looking at it and thinking it is still pretty plain looking and not sure I should have done the ribbing on the shoulders. I came up with the idea of ribbing between the side seams near the hem. I did the same thing by putting the ribbing between the two fabrics right sides together. Okay, not so plain. Now for the sleeves!  The sleeves were 400 knitted rows!!!  I finished both sleeves and then got to thinking   of how to put a ribbing on the sleeve but not between the seam. I knitted up the ribbing, took it off on waste yarn and latch tooled the open stitches from the inside between a knitted column. It worked. lol

Here is what I learned while knitting this.

To take stitches off on waste yarn on a brother is easy .You just pull out the needles to hold that you don’t want to knit. I had to figure out how to do this to remove the left side stitches of the front to work on the right side. I figured out how to do this on the passap and laughed when I succeeded. I used pushers under the front needles I wanted to remove and LX setting on front lock and GX on back lock. On the back I brought in pushers and used BX and GX on the front lock.. I took off circular and it made it easier to rehang  the stitches to do the left front shaping.

The next thing I learned is that when your increases or decreases are in every row if you don’t put the end pushers up on the front bed, the end needles will start to have stitches pile up . That is because you knit four rows for one row and the second color did not always knit the end stitches because of the pattern.I experienced this on the sleeve cap.

The third thing I did was when I knitted the sleeves, I started with 60 stitches and got to 120 at the underarm. When setting up the pattern I set the Left and Right stitches at 35- and 35+. This way, when I was knitting I did not have to take the locks all the way out to needle 60 so the console would not beep and make me reset the pattern. I kept doing this as I increased in increments of five. I never forgot once. What also surprised me is that I never forgot to put a pusher in work or out of work. When I first knitted on the passap , I always forgot since you don’t have to worry about that on a brother machine.

I am now happy with the sweater and especially with the weight of it. I love Bramwell yarns and I am glad I made this sweater instead of an afghan. AND I still have 8 ounces of yarn left on each cone!

Was it as easy as I thought it would be? Yes and  No.  I would say it was more time consuming than difficult. Every time I decreased or increased it was on each bed and it took a lot of time. On my sleeves I had 28 increases on both sides to the underarm. That means four decrease each time(both ends and front and back bed) On the sleeve cap there were 1 stitch decreases on almost all of the rows until the last rows at the top. I think the first sleeve took me 2&1/2 hours to do. The neckline probably took about that length of time also. I started to laugh when I was knitting the front. It was 292 rows on the front to the underarm and it felt like I was knitting an afghan!!!!    🙂

 

 

 

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