Posts Tagged ‘Passap E6000’

Passap 6000 Cat Blankets


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I am having fun making these little blankets using single bed Technique 179 on the double bed. To use this technique, remember you always have to reverse the colors. You will use both beds and no back bed pushers. Front lock LX and back lock N. This blanket is the same size as the owl afghan ,29 by 29 inches. I made one for my sister’s cat Autumn and my friends granddaughter’s cat Luna. I made one plain to sell in my Etsy store. However,  I did not put the little cats on the heart and the letter ” I “. I thought maybe there are too many cats

I used Joan Swanson cat designs. I designed in DAK. I used the text in DAK to make large letters so the little cats could sit on them. I then took the little cats out of the larger files and placed them on the letters. I probably spent a whole day on this design because I came up with a design and would be ready to knit and then did not like it. I did not want a border so when finishing this, the last rows are plain. There is not an issue with the beginning and ending border matching in size this way.

I will be happy to share the I love cats afghan with you( I have the little cats on the heart and letter “I” but you can remove them if you don’t like them) but it can only be used for your use. If you would like the file with your cat’s name on it, I will be willing to do it but I would need some time depending on how many people want one. I will have the directions also. It takes about 5.5ounces of the main color and 2.5 ounces of the second color.

I made this blanket because my sister’s cat has a favorite chair .It will keep the hair off of the pillow and  when company comes, she can remove it and no cat hair to cling to her company’s clothing !  It could also be used as a little lap blanket…..put it on your lap and the cat sits on top of it keeping the hair off of you. lol

 

Passap Knitted Owl Puffs by Jenna Krupar


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I saw the free pattern for  hand knitted owl puffs by Jenna Krupar awhile back and I just came across it in my downloads. I decided to convert it to machine knitting and add a little stuffed owl to the baby  blanket I just made . The hand written instructions start at the bottom and work up. Then the top stitches are kitchener stitched after lightly stuffing it. On the knitting machine it is easier and faster to decrease so I started at the top. I did a row of N/N for cast on and knit circular for 15 rows. I knitted one row of ravel for removing the waste yarn easily. Then I knitted the face and the body the same amount of rows as the pattern and then decreased on designated rows. I decreased evenly and moved the stitches in. It took awhile doing it that way. When I finished I had a teeny weeny owl! lol He is 2 inches by 2 inches. Well, he can be a package tie.

So I went back to the machine and doubled the stitches and rows. I decreased 12 stitches instead of 6 like I did on the small one. I sewed on the eyes since the top of the eye was purple and you can’t see the thread behind it. I think they are cute. If you would like the instructions for the larger one, just email me. I was able to photograph  the right color pink but not the purple this time!

Passap E6000 Owl Baby Afghan


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I promised my sister I would knit her a baby afghan for a shower she was going to before I broke my arm. The baby’s room is being done in owls and the colors of purple and pink. She called and wondered if I was still going to be able to do it since she needs it ASAP. No pressure there. lol  No sympathy either with a broken arm. Lol, just kidding sis! I already made her feel bad telling her that her husband and son are landscapers and they did not come and cut my lawn for me . That wasn’t fair since they live an hour away.

I wanted to try something awhile back so I thought I would try it on this afghan.I read an article that said you can take any Japanese design and knit it on the passap without distortion if you use the  single bed technique  179 but knit it double bed. You have to do two things to do this. You have to have an even number of rows and you always have to reverse the main and motif colors. I googled owls on the internet and found a punch card with this design. I entered it into win/crea since it was only 21 stitches wide and 35 rows and made up the design. I used 168 stitches and the pattern is 198 rows. The afghan came out 29 inches by 29 inches. I could have added another row of owls but did not want a real large afghan. The colors are purple and pink even though the pink looks white. The owl does look better in the purple rather than the pink. The pink ones look like they have ghost eyes. haha

I was able to knit with one arm. The only hard part was putting the cast on comb in. I took my time and no mistakes…..always a good day when that happens!

I have the directions on how I knitted this afghan(but not the file) in detail right down to  how to program the console for color reverse. Email me if you would like a copy.

 

Passap Creative Slip and Tuck


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My friend Jacqui and I were discussing the Passap Knitting Machine and what it can do. She told me that there was an article in KnitWords Magazine #1, 1997 Summer on knitting two motifs side by side and one motif was slip stitch and one motif was tuck. The article is written by Katherine Geiger and she sounds just like me. She was so excited figuring this out and seeing what this Passap 6000 can do!
I just had to try this. In the article Katherine has a design that she made . I put it into win/crea and downloaded it. This is sample 1. The diamonds are tuck and the zig zag is slip.
How unique is that? The technique used is 129 (or 179)and when it says to change to KX, ignore the console and put UX setting on front lock.
The OX and UX settings slip and tuck in different directions. So when she made her pattern she starts the pattern that she wants to slip on the odd numbered lines and tuck motifs on even numbered lines with a blank row in-between each row of each of the designs. What happens is that when one motif tucks, the slip motif is inactive. When the slip motif is active the tuck motif is inactive. It was fun to watch while knitting. You use one color and when you knit row one you will only see needles selected for motif one. After knitting row 1, the needles selected are motif 2. Then when you knit the next two rows, you will see motif 1 and then motif two. The pushers must be in work under all the front bed needles.
Katherine then suggests using a technique in the manual from 1000 to 1034. Pick your pattern and use technique 149. Ignore the console and use UX. Knitting with these settings gives you a fabric that she calls Loopy Lace. The stitch formation is such that it is being slipped first and then tucked giving a more pronounced look to the pattern. I used the same technique but used two different patterns to see how they each looked.
In the fourth sample she suggests using OX and the fabric looks so similar to fine lace knitted on the Japanese machines. The great thing is you don’t have to use a lace carriage, you just put in black strippers and knit away!
In sample 2, I picked pattern 1032 and technique 149 and UX
In sample 3 I picked pattern 1028 and technique 149 and UX.
In sample 4 I used pattern 1028 and technique 149 and OX
These samples are all knitted single bed.
I hope you try it. I think the one fabric sort of looks like garter stitch that the Brother G carriage knits. If you want more detailed information on how to do this, just email me.

Passap Machine, Changing from Rib to Full Double Bed-Eliminating the “holes”


DSCF4229In a book I have called The Knitting Machine Textbook:Using the Passap E6000 by Marika Simon I came across an article and decided to read it.  Imagine that.  I have seen a lot of people asking how to eliminate the holes after knitting rib and going into full needle rib. Well, in this book there are three ways to do it and you use the console. What? Now you have my attention.

Sample one is knitted and it comes out with holes between the ribbing and the main garment. It can be decorative but undesirable in other instances. In the book, sample 2 says “Reducing the size of the holes. Sample 3 says Further reducing the holes and Sample 4 says Eliminating the holes completely.
In the book the rib is knitted with two strands of yarn and when you transfer to full needle , she says to only use one strand of yarn. Well, I always knit with two strands so my first four samples are knitted with 2 strands throughout. When I knitted sample 2,3 & 4 there were no holes at all!
So I went back and knitted the first and second samples changing to one strand after the rib and now I see why they had the headings that they did. When changing to one strand the holes still show up in sample 2. See the picture with 2 samples. I did not do sample 3 and 4 because I know which one I will use. It will be #4 .
Sample one:The console is programmed with the long stitch technique 117. A 1X1 rib is knitted first. Then the needles are all brought into work . You program the console answering all the questions and setting the correct numbers of needles and then knit. Large holes appear.
Sample two : Knit the 1X1 rib, change to one strand of yarn, bring all needles into work and knit 4 rows of CX/CX . Then program the console for technique 117 and start knitting.
Sample 3: Knit the rib but stop the lock on the left side and change the tension to 5 and knit one row. Put all of the needles into work and take the heel of the loop on the purl stitches on the front bed and put onto the empty needles on the back bed. Set tension back to 3 , Program the console for 117 and knit.
Sample 4: Knit the rib and stop on the left side to raise the tension 2 numbers. Take the heel of the purl stitches on front bed and put on the back bed and vice versa. Knit one row at tension 4 and one row at tension 3(original tension) Program the console for 117 and knit.This is the way I have always done it except I have never knitted the long stitch .This has changed my mind. I really like the weight of the fabric using one strand of 2/24 for the garment using technique 117.
If you would like more detailed instructions on trying these, please email me. Otherwise, if you don’t want any holes going from rib to full needle rib, use the last technique and you don’t even have to use technique 117. I used to do this on the Brother and never knitted the two rows after all the transfers and it came out very nice.

 

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Passap Lapghan using 3 color techniques


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Ha, ha, fooled you again. Here is my knitted strip of techniques for a three color design. It is shorter and took 918rows of knitting. I used 60 stitches and I knit 102 rows of each. I knitted techniques 195 to 200. Then the last three are 204,205 and 206.

I also had to learn how to download a 3 color pattern that is in the console. I realized I had never done this. These are the ones with the asterisks next to them in the pattern book.   I used pattern 1285 and added 1286. I wrote this down programming the console to downloading to locks. If you would like a copy, please email me. If you would also like the information to attach to your strips of knitting, if you do one, email me for that as well.

The strangest of the techniques are 204,205 and 206.(bottom 3) In the picture you can see a blister type effect that is more pronounced in the last one. The book calls this a pin tuck effect. These three techniques require back lock changes. In #204 you knit 2 rows of color one on LX/N, 2 rows of color 2 on LX/N, and you knit 4 rows of color three on LX/BX. In other words, you are knitting 8 rows for one row of knitting. On #205 you will do the same with colors one and two and then you will knit 6 rows of color 3 on LX/BX. In this one you are knitting 10 rows for each row. On #206 you will do the same with colors one and two and then knit 8 rows of color 3 on LX/BX. This knits 12 rows for one row of knitting. All three of these techniques use black strippers. Now I don’t know if I did the last three right so I am going to go back and try something different to see if they look the same. On the back bed you only have four pushers in work , two on each end. It also might look strange to me because of the pattern I chose. I know that when I give up this machine, I still will not know everything it can do!!

Passap Afghan of Many Techniques


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Bet you thought you were going to see another large afghan. Well this strip of techniques was the length of an afghan . I knitted techniques 180 to 191 . I knitted 21 rows for each technique and that came to 84 knitted rows . I used 60 stitches, the same pattern, same tension, same amount of rows. I typed up the techniques, put in the settings and pusher information. I laminated the information and attached with a yarn that is strong like ravel cord so they won’t come off. I am doing this for a friend that I am helping with the E6000.  This shows her the backs and the sizes when she chooses an afghan. I made an afghan using the Fairisle Fantasy but she wanted it in a lap blanket so we looked at the strip and chose a different technique. It came out perfect for her but we also shortened the pattern as well.

I learned several things doing this. My arm is killing me. Hahahaha, just kidding. First, I love this machine. Lol  Second, it took me longer to do than an afghan since you have to reprogram every technique and set the pushers on the back bed in or out of the rail. You can see the widest one and it is technique 186 which is the fantasy fairisle. What surprises me is that you don’t see , or I should say, I don’t see many afghans made using the last four techniques 188-191. You have to change the back lock every two rows on a couple of them but it is not confusing. The console tells you when to change. Techniques 188 to 191 are closer in width to the fantasy fairisle . Also notice that the technique 181 has a solid back. I also knitted technique 185 for the first time which is the long stitch or summer fairisle and I like it. It is amazing how one pattern can look so different in every one of the techniques. This also gives you an idea of distortion using different techniques.

Also, I have two little cutters on my other knitting machine carriages for cutting the yarn . They are great and I don’t have to pick up a pair of scissors. I bought these years ago for a dollar and have not found them since. A couple of weeks ago I went to a sewing expo in Cleveland and I found this( I should say my friend found it) . It was $7.95 and I have it mounted on top of my passap lock. It is not as nice as my cheapie but it sure does the trick for cutting my yarn. 🙂 It has a self stick backing.

Passap Raglan Decreases-Single bed


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I came across an article called Nice’ N’ Easy  by George LeWarre in the Duet International Book Number 8 Autumn/Fall 1991. I compared them to the decreases I had done previously in my blog and they are different. Their may be one that is the same. If you print out the page that is the picture above, you will have the directions and a picture of what they look like. On the third one down, there is a one, two and three stitch decrease. You would pick one of the three, not do them all in a row like my sample. I have about four more to add and will notify you later.

I would like to encourage you to try these and make a sample of your own and label them for future reference. You might want to start your own book of samples.

That is what  I am doing now when I don’t feel like knitting. I am using  large notebooks with pictures and directions and putting in all the samples I have knitted .They will be going with my passap when I sell her so that the next person does not have to spend all of their time on the internet looking for directions on a particular technique.  So far I have about 5 notebooks but I am going to organize them better.

The picture above is in my drop box with the other raglan decreases.

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/lhfvnw0ncnhgs0t/AADJ_PxwCNWUnUe41dJ7IkA2a?dl=0

Passap vs Brother Placemat by Tricia Shafer


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I made this  Tricia Shafer plated place mat(top picture)  on the Brother years ago and I liked it. I decided to make it again. When I finished, I decided to try to duplicate it on the Passap. And that is when I found out I can’t. (Notice , I said “I can’t” , maybe someone else can) I also found out from a friend in Arizona that there is a plating attachment for the passap, though rare to find.

I made the placemat on the Brother with two strands of Estillo for both yarns . On the botton one made on the passap I used one strand of Diamonte. I tried two strands of Estillo to start and I think I had problems because I did not have the right tensions. Looking back now, I bet it would be the same size as the first one if I did use the 2 strands of estillo.

Here are the comparisons . The plated mat is heavier and had a great shape when it came off the machine.  The passap was made just using blue diamonte using the same amount of stitches . The passap mat is smaller by about one and a half inches but it still is a nice size. The passap mat is not as nice shaped and is much lighter. The pattern came out nice on both mats done on different machines. So, I have to give the vote to Brother just because I don’t have the plating attachment for the Passap. 😦

To make this on the passap, I cast on N/N 1/1  and knitted the two CX 2../2.. rows and the N/N 5/5 row and then I transferred stitches from the front bed to the back bed.

Below is the  set up on the front bed.(of course you will have more needles than the diagram) The ends have 2 needles in work . The dots are the needles out of work.The back bed has all of the needles in work and the racking handle is down while knitting. You will put it up when transferring the stitches so the needles line up at the beginning transfers.

I cast on 63-63 on front bed and one less on back bed so the end needles are on the front bed. After transferring the front bed stitches to the back bed,(if you have one left over double up the stitches so that both ends look like the diagram below) put those needles out of work and put pushers in work under the remaining needles in work. Set locks to LX/N. I set the back bed tension to 5 and the front bed tension to 3. On the Brother the tensions were 7 on the main bed and 3 on the ribber. The sequence is six rows of knitting at LX/N and then 2 rows of LX/GX so that only the front bed needles knit.ALSO:in her pattern , Tricia  only does two rows of knitting instead of six between the  rows , two times,and you can see that in the pattern. There are three lines close together dividing the mat in 3. There are 158 rows of knitting . To finish transfer the front bed stitches to the back bed and bind off the stitches.

11.1.111.1.1.1.1.1.111.1.1.1.1.1.111.1.11

 

Passap Queen of Diamonds by Irene Krieger


 

 

 

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Well, between the doctor appointments for my husband and me, it is really cutting into my craft time! Haha

I am sorry it took so long to post the directions on how to do this but I knew it was going to take a long time to do it and I was right.It has taken me over 6 hours to write the instructions  so that I don’t confuse you AND to figure out how to knit it again. Then I had to knit it again, following my instructions to make sure I had all the numbered rows right and the needles that should be in work.Lol By knitting this over again I realized that I have a mistake in my previous posting but this one is perfect.It is true that the third time is the charm.

The instructions are in my drop box with four pictures to show you how your work should look on those rows. I hope they help.

I sure hope someone that follows my blog will give this a try to make me feel like my time was not wasted. 🙂 Well, I guess it wasn’t since I learned it. Tee Hee

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/qivgfn30788iuau/AADzYhHEg8mq3CfMmeoFD64ua?dl=0

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