Posts Tagged ‘All knitting machines’

Passap Raglan Decreases-Single bed


DSCF3943

I came across an article called Nice’ N’ Easy  by George LeWarre in the Duet International Book Number 8 Autumn/Fall 1991. I compared them to the decreases I had done previously in my blog and they are different. Their may be one that is the same. If you print out the page that is the picture above, you will have the directions and a picture of what they look like. On the third one down, there is a one, two and three stitch decrease. You would pick one of the three, not do them all in a row like my sample. I have about four more to add and will notify you later.

I would like to encourage you to try these and make a sample of your own and label them for future reference. You might want to start your own book of samples.

That is what  I am doing now when I don’t feel like knitting. I am using  large notebooks with pictures and directions and putting in all the samples I have knitted .They will be going with my passap when I sell her so that the next person does not have to spend all of their time on the internet looking for directions on a particular technique.  So far I have about 5 notebooks but I am going to organize them better.

The picture above is in my drop box with the other raglan decreases.

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/lhfvnw0ncnhgs0t/AADJ_PxwCNWUnUe41dJ7IkA2a?dl=0

Passap Doily in Cotton-Pattern Carole J. Thimidis


DSCF2500I am still doing short rowing and I have to tell you how I came upon this pattern. I saw a pattern for a round dishcloth and I loved how the outside was finished. The pattern was by Marg Coe and the pattern was available in the LK150 knitting machine group. I made the dishcloth on my passap out of sock yarn and it came out the size of a coaster. I have lent the sample out but will post when I get it back. I emailed Marg Coe and asked her if I could make that pattern larger because  I wanted to use it as a doily and not a dish rag. It is too pretty. She emailed me back and gave me some suggestions. So that is my next project in short rowing to share with you. When she answered me she sent me this pattern and told me that it comes out rather large and it is a doily. Well I had seen this pattern in the LK150 group and that was my next mission to find it. And here it shows up in my email!! Thank you Marg! So I used a cotton yarn, tension 6 on the passap. No console is needed and it is so very,very easy. I emailed Marg and asked if I could share this pattern with you. She told me that Carole was an instructor that gave this pattern to her and told her to share it with whoever she wanted . If you would like to try this pattern, just email me. It is written for machines that can pull needles to hold. I did a sample on the Brother to see how it was made. To make it on the passap,you can’t pull the needles to hold.  I cast on both beds , hung the comb and dropped the stitches off the back bed. I knitted several rows of waste yarn and followed her pattern . Since you can’t pull needles to hold on the passap you have to have 41 pushers under the 41 stitches. The lock has to be set to LX and GX on the back bed. When it says to pull two needles out to  hold, all you have to do is lower the two pushers to non working position. There is no wrapping of stitches and it knits rather quickly. I took my time so I did not drop any stitches. There are 16 wedges and I reset the row counter after finishing one wedge. I actually got to the point of memorizing the pattern and did not have to look at the sheet. I also used the one eye transfer tool instead of a multiple one since it was too easy to drop a stitch if all did not transfer.  I was going to crochet an edge but I think this is just lovely the way it is.

I am sorry I have not posted anything but the weather has been beautiful and I don’t want to stay inside. Also, I did not have a cable to download to my passap from a  laptop. I got rid of my pc and now I can download easier. I am now up and running and hope to be doing something soon before I forget how to use my passap and Brother machines. lol

Passap Knitted Ice Skate Ornament with Carpet Stitch cuff


DSCF1087

Okay, I know you were expecting a lot more in knitting from me. The truth is that I want to get knitting more but we are working on our house. I just finished staining all the woodwork for 9 doors and baseboards.

So I was able to play around in between the staining and varnishing. I know I need to get a life when I look at the hours I spent  to get this little ornament knitted. I think it is cute though so time was not wasted. I got the idea from a magazine picture of a felted ice skate. This can be knitted on any machine but you would have to do a different cuff. The cuff is the carpet stitch and I used the stitch ditcher attachment but you don’t need one to do this. It is just faster and easier with one. The great thing about this carpet stitch cuff  is that it curls around the top of the skate body by itself.  I tried making this four times and the best way to knit it is to knit the cuff, take off on waste yarn and then knit the shoe part from the bottom up so you are doing decreases instead of increases. I then Kitchener stitched the cuff to the body, hung the sides on machine with right sides together and bound off and then when I came to the bottom where the waste yarn was I bound off two stitches at a time. Turn in side out and stuff lightly. I made laces with the white yarn. Pompoms would look cute on the ends of the laces. Or you could put a pompom on the toe like I used to do eons ago when I used to roller skate. The yarn I used was called flash I believe. It has a very pretty sparkle to it. The cuff has sparkle in it but it is hard to see in my picture.  If you want to make it here are my pattern instructions in my drop box.

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/1vt9xm3nvn8s4lp/AADTaPnapAXonAXvUD66_GqGa?dl=0

Baby’s First Cable Cardigan – Machine Knit from Hand Knit Pattern


Knit on the Bulky

Knit on the Bulky

I saw this pattern at a hand knitting seminar a year ago. I went to the same seminar with my friend about a month ago and I bought the pattern. I wanted to convert it to machine knitting. The pattern is designed by Diane Kostecki. It is available through Kalamazoo Knits. The sweater is knitted from the sleeve cuff to sleeve cuff all in one piece. I chose to knit to the middle of the back yoke on both sleeves and then kitchener stitched the two together.

I made the first sample with old yarn that I use for scrap yarn. I used my passap machine for it. I did not have trouble crossing the cables with the acrylic yarn.  A couple of things I did not like. The 1X1 ribbing seems too flimsy and the 2X1 that I used on the second is too large BUT that is because of the yarn I used using the Bulky. I also  did not like how the purl stitch was carried across the back yoke. I eliminated that. Too much bulk at the neck. By eliminating that , it does not look funny . I made this twice and I don’t like the band done as all one. I don’t like seams in ribbing but if I make this for someone, I will do the two front bands and then the neck. In order for the band to curve at the beginning of the neck, the stitches really stretched. In my sample, there is a mistake on the left side . crossed the cable wrong and also one of the purl needles accidentally got pushed out of work. It was okay since this was just scrap yarn and trying to convert pattern. This is just to show how the original pattern comes out. In the pictures in drop box you will see what I am talking about on the back yoke with the two  purl stitches going across the back.

Another thing I don’t like about hand knitting patterns is when there are  no schematics . 😦  Okay, I am done complaining. lol

Sample made on the Passap

Sample made on the Passap

I knit the good sweater on the Bulky since the pattern calls for 5 stitches to the inch. That is what I got with Bernat sport yarn on tension 3. The yarn looks and feels like cotton and it has white specks in it that you can’t see in the picture. The bad thing is that it was too hard to cross three stitch cables so I did a progressive cable so it was not hard on the machine.  If you want to try this out I have written up the pattern with the changes and put pictures with it to show you how it is knitted and assembled. My sweater  came out 9 inches wide and the newborn size is supposed to fit a finished chest size of 18 so I was okay with tension.

Here are the directions in my drop box.

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/8qnwezp4d01q8y6/AAD3h31sFnVeREeFvnmA1fica?dl=0

 

Diane Sullivan’s No Roll Edge


dianesullivansnorolledge

dianesullivansnorolledgepurlside

 

On Knitting Paradise this morning there is a video of Diane Sullivan demonstrating her no roll edge. It is SOOOOOO nice. I have just the project for it. On January 7th of this year I posted a No roll slip edge. While it is nice, this is better. I just had to go try it and it is a keeper.

All she does is move the 2nd, 3rd and 4th stitches to the first, second and third stitches and then fills in the empty needle and knits two rows. I can see so many uses for this. I looked at the reverse side and it is just as nice. I think this would look great as button and buttonhole bands in the front of a cardigan. Try it, I think you will be pleased with the outcome.

Child’s Ribbed Hat Any Machine


childsribbedhatonpassap

It was a rainy cold day yesterday and I had an area in my knitting room to clean up. I came across this little hat in an “In Knitters” book, Volume 5 No. 19,  that I picked up at a seminar last spring. It is designed by Ruth Schnell. She gives the hand version and machine knitting version. I love it. I hate to make pompoms even though I have nice pompom makers. I made this on the passap since it is my favorite. It took less than 20 minutes to knit it. I used two strands of  2/24 yarn though she calls for Tamm 3 ply astacryl.  There are three children’s sizes S,M, L to fit 18″,20″,22″ head circumference. She casts on at tension 6 and I don’t recommend that. I used a tension 3.5 and I would go tighter than that. But remember, I am using the passap.  Then you set up needles in 1 by 1 rib 110(138,152) and knit for 86(94,100) rows after doing the cast on with the contrast yarn. You then transfer she says to the main bed. I used the back bed on the passap. But when you transfer you don’t put the stitches on the empty needles . You double up the stitches on the same bed. In other words, put the ribber stitch on the main bed needle that already has a stitch on it. You will have two stitches on every other needle. Then you bring the out of work needles in and knit 11 rows of stockinette stitch. (You will have a row of eyelets where you started to knit the stockinette).  Your carriage will be on the left side. Knit one row with the contrast color to the right and put your tension dial up to 10 or 8 I believe on the passap. Knit one row to the left and bind off one stitch through the next. Sew up the seam and make an “I” cord that is 12 inches long. 3 stitches with one part button in and knit about 300 rows on the Brother. I made my “I” cord on the Brother. She calls for a tension of 10 but I used a tension of 4. I did not want a big cord.

childsribbedhatonpassapb

Crossing Stitches for 8 Stitch Cable on a Knitting Machine


Finished crossing of 8 Stitches

Finished crossing of 8 Stitches

Andrea asked if I would post how I crossed the cables that were in the buttonhole bands. Here is the link to see pictures of the process. I also wrote down in a document the steps involved to do it so you can take them to your machine. If you click on the pictures in the drop box you will see the pictures on the whole  screen and can scroll with the arrows. Or you can right click and download them.

If you would like to see how I made the buttonhole, just email me and I would do another sample with just one buttonhole.

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/kdxdxnifidognbi/FTMU3OOtKV

Same Idea, Different Look


4StitchCablebuttonholes

Thelma Viers    Buttonhole

Thelma Viers Buttonhole

Okay, I tried again. This time I started the band on waste yarn and took it off on waste yarn and then attached it to the fabric. I decided not to cross the stitches when starting so it did not pull in. The look is different but the band lays flat. It is a little decorative but I am not totally happy with it.  The second picture is the buttonhole that I love. When it comes off the machine, no loose ends or sewing to do. They come out perfect.

The way to cross 8 stitches came out to be easy when I did it this way. When I wanted to cross the stitches I hand knitted the 8 stitches with ravel cord  and put needles all the way out of work. I hung a small weight below the stitches and slightly pulled so all the needles came into work. I took two 4 prong tools and removed all 8 stitches. I crossed the right to the left. Then I pulled on the ravel cord end on the right  and the stitches go back onto the needles on the left. Then I crossed the remaining four and put on the right needles. I pulled the ravel cord on the left and used a transfer tool to put it back on the needle. Then I continued with the next one. On the last needle you will have the ravel cord with the two ends in your hand. When you pull both ends, the stitch will appear and lift it with the transfer tool and put on last needle. Then I hand knit one row with an extra piece of yarn so it is not hard on machine to knit the next row. If anyone wants pictures of this I will gladly do over and take pictures. Just email me.

 

Knitting Machine Crochet by Barb Kapraun


 

KNIT SIDE

KNIT SIDE

 

 

PURL SIDE

PURL SIDE

 

UNFINISHED SIDE EDGES

UNFINISHED SIDE EDGES

 

Boy, I don’t know why you never see this technique posted whenever someone asks how to finish a side edge to keep it from rolling. The bottom picture is the fabric once it comes off of the machine and steamed flat. This is lace pattern 168 in the Brother Stitch World Book and it is a 10 stitch repeat and I used 20 stitches plus one on each side for the knitted edge stitch. When it comes off the machine it has a curvy edge that is nice but looks unfinished. I tried the machine knit single crochet and did not like it. It was okay on the front of the fabric but not nice on the purl side.

This sample in the first picture on the left side is the crab stitch done on the machine and the one on the right side of the fabric is the double crochet machine stitch. Both were very easy to do and look really nice when finished. The crab stitch on the purl side is very inconspicuous and looks nice. The double crochet on the purl side gives a raised two column look which I also find attractive. On the double crochet you can try it hanging the fabric from the wrong side and see what that looks like. I know it will look nice.
Both of the edges, crab stitch and double crochet would look nice around an afghan, scarf, front edge of jacket, cuff band and even collar. On this particular fabric design, where it curved in I picked up every other stitch on the fabric so it would curve nicely. If it comes out a straight edge, you would not have to do that. The beauty of these edges is that they can be knitted using any machine.

Here is the link with the directions if you care to give it a try. I make notebooks after I try things and I attach the sample to the page of directions. Easy to find when you need to use it.

You will also see pictures for the single crochet and decide if you want to try it.

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/xe9djnydz15jjd2/5Up1s6RSIf

 

Knit Edges by Barb Kapraun of Indiana


BARB KAPRAUN KNIT EDGES

Barb Kapraun “Beginner’s Machine Knit Edges”

I am really glad that I stumbled on this hand out. I think I got this when I was in Indiana at the Knit Knack Shop Christmas in July.(years ago)   These two edges I love. You can put these on the bottom edge of sweater or on the vertical edge of sweater after the sweater is knitted. I did them with the contrast yarn so you can see what part is the knitted edge. I think they would both look nice going up the front  edge of a jacket . You have to try this to see how nice the edge looks. Here is the link.

All of these trims can be done on all machines.

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/9ru72moumib6pj1/lpdRWmZZnX

 

« Previous entries