Passap Machine, Changing from Rib to Full Double Bed-Eliminating the “holes”


DSCF4229In a book I have called The Knitting Machine Textbook:Using the Passap E6000 by Marika Simon I came across an article and decided to read it.  Imagine that.  I have seen a lot of people asking how to eliminate the holes after knitting rib and going into full needle rib. Well, in this book there are three ways to do it and you use the console. What? Now you have my attention.

Sample one is knitted and it comes out with holes between the ribbing and the main garment. It can be decorative but undesirable in other instances. In the book, sample 2 says “Reducing the size of the holes. Sample 3 says Further reducing the holes and Sample 4 says Eliminating the holes completely.
In the book the rib is knitted with two strands of yarn and when you transfer to full needle , she says to only use one strand of yarn. Well, I always knit with two strands so my first four samples are knitted with 2 strands throughout. When I knitted sample 2,3 & 4 there were no holes at all!
So I went back and knitted the first and second samples changing to one strand after the rib and now I see why they had the headings that they did. When changing to one strand the holes still show up in sample 2. See the picture with 2 samples. I did not do sample 3 and 4 because I know which one I will use. It will be #4 .
Sample one:The console is programmed with the long stitch technique 117. A 1X1 rib is knitted first. Then the needles are all brought into work . You program the console answering all the questions and setting the correct numbers of needles and then knit. Large holes appear.
Sample two : Knit the 1X1 rib, change to one strand of yarn, bring all needles into work and knit 4 rows of CX/CX . Then program the console for technique 117 and start knitting.
Sample 3: Knit the rib but stop the lock on the left side and change the tension to 5 and knit one row. Put all of the needles into work and take the heel of the loop on the purl stitches on the front bed and put onto the empty needles on the back bed. Set tension back to 3 , Program the console for 117 and knit.
Sample 4: Knit the rib and stop on the left side to raise the tension 2 numbers. Take the heel of the purl stitches on front bed and put on the back bed and vice versa. Knit one row at tension 4 and one row at tension 3(original tension) Program the console for 117 and knit.This is the way I have always done it except I have never knitted the long stitch .This has changed my mind. I really like the weight of the fabric using one strand of 2/24 for the garment using technique 117.
If you would like more detailed instructions on trying these, please email me. Otherwise, if you don’t want any holes going from rib to full needle rib, use the last technique and you don’t even have to use technique 117. I used to do this on the Brother and never knitted the two rows after all the transfers and it came out very nice.

 

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Passap Vertical Band for a Sweater or Jacket


I am still learning new things on my passap and I have had it for quite awhile. I just tried something I saw in a book that I have. It is knitting a vertical band while knitting the sweater so you don’t have to go back and attach a band. Well, that’s not new you say. I didn’t think so either until I read the directions. When I finished the dark blue one I liked the look. I also noticed it did not curl in . I gently steamed it and it hangs nicely. I think it would be really nice on a formal jacket knitted plain. I would not do as deep a hem or I wouldn’t do a hem at all and just start with the side band . This is simple to do and I hope you try it.
The hem tension was 4 (2 strands of 2/24)Cast on any number of stitches using the N/N row (2..), 2 rows CX/CX (3)and one N/N(4) row. Knit the number of rows you want for a hem. Then transfer all of the stitches on the front bed to the back bed EXCEPT the last five on the right.
Set the front lock to CX and tension 6 and the back lock to N at tension 5. Put in black strippers. Gently weight the five end stitches. With the front lock setting on CX it stretches the stitch a little so it is noticeable and you only knit one row on that front bed for every two rows of knitting. Incidentally, you don’t need front or back bed pushers.I went back and did another sample leaving only 2 stitches on the end instead of 5 and liked it even better. Even the purl side looks good and the edge stands out even more. Notice in the pictures how the border does not show until you transfer the stitches and set the front lock to CX.

I wanted to see how this would look as a design so I just went back and knitted the same thing using 60 stitches .I set up 2 stitches working on the front bed with four empty needles between them. It reminds me of a tuck stitch but if a mistake is made this is so simple to correct. You don’t have to use the console and ripping back would be fast. Notice on one edge I have the 2 stitch border and for the hem I knitted four rows before transferring the stitches to the back bed.

Passap Lapghan using 3 color techniques


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Ha, ha, fooled you again. Here is my knitted strip of techniques for a three color design. It is shorter and took 918rows of knitting. I used 60 stitches and I knit 102 rows of each. I knitted techniques 195 to 200. Then the last three are 204,205 and 206.

I also had to learn how to download a 3 color pattern that is in the console. I realized I had never done this. These are the ones with the asterisks next to them in the pattern book.   I used pattern 1285 and added 1286. I wrote this down programming the console to downloading to locks. If you would like a copy, please email me. If you would also like the information to attach to your strips of knitting, if you do one, email me for that as well.

The strangest of the techniques are 204,205 and 206.(bottom 3) In the picture you can see a blister type effect that is more pronounced in the last one. The book calls this a pin tuck effect. These three techniques require back lock changes. In #204 you knit 2 rows of color one on LX/N, 2 rows of color 2 on LX/N, and you knit 4 rows of color three on LX/BX. In other words, you are knitting 8 rows for one row of knitting. On #205 you will do the same with colors one and two and then you will knit 6 rows of color 3 on LX/BX. In this one you are knitting 10 rows for each row. On #206 you will do the same with colors one and two and then knit 8 rows of color 3 on LX/BX. This knits 12 rows for one row of knitting. All three of these techniques use black strippers. Now I don’t know if I did the last three right so I am going to go back and try something different to see if they look the same. On the back bed you only have four pushers in work , two on each end. It also might look strange to me because of the pattern I chose. I know that when I give up this machine, I still will not know everything it can do!!

Passap Afghan of Many Techniques


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Bet you thought you were going to see another large afghan. Well this strip of techniques was the length of an afghan . I knitted techniques 180 to 191 . I knitted 21 rows for each technique and that came to 84 knitted rows . I used 60 stitches, the same pattern, same tension, same amount of rows. I typed up the techniques, put in the settings and pusher information. I laminated the information and attached with a yarn that is strong like ravel cord so they won’t come off. I am doing this for a friend that I am helping with the E6000.  This shows her the backs and the sizes when she chooses an afghan. I made an afghan using the Fairisle Fantasy but she wanted it in a lap blanket so we looked at the strip and chose a different technique. It came out perfect for her but we also shortened the pattern as well.

I learned several things doing this. My arm is killing me. Hahahaha, just kidding. First, I love this machine. Lol  Second, it took me longer to do than an afghan since you have to reprogram every technique and set the pushers on the back bed in or out of the rail. You can see the widest one and it is technique 186 which is the fantasy fairisle. What surprises me is that you don’t see , or I should say, I don’t see many afghans made using the last four techniques 188-191. You have to change the back lock every two rows on a couple of them but it is not confusing. The console tells you when to change. Techniques 188 to 191 are closer in width to the fantasy fairisle . Also notice that the technique 181 has a solid back. I also knitted technique 185 for the first time which is the long stitch or summer fairisle and I like it. It is amazing how one pattern can look so different in every one of the techniques. This also gives you an idea of distortion using different techniques.

Also, I have two little cutters on my other knitting machine carriages for cutting the yarn . They are great and I don’t have to pick up a pair of scissors. I bought these years ago for a dollar and have not found them since. A couple of weeks ago I went to a sewing expo in Cleveland and I found this( I should say my friend found it) . It was $7.95 and I have it mounted on top of my passap lock. It is not as nice as my cheapie but it sure does the trick for cutting my yarn. 🙂 It has a self stick backing.

Passap Raglan Decreases-Single bed


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I came across an article called Nice’ N’ Easy  by George LeWarre in the Duet International Book Number 8 Autumn/Fall 1991. I compared them to the decreases I had done previously in my blog and they are different. Their may be one that is the same. If you print out the page that is the picture above, you will have the directions and a picture of what they look like. On the third one down, there is a one, two and three stitch decrease. You would pick one of the three, not do them all in a row like my sample. I have about four more to add and will notify you later.

I would like to encourage you to try these and make a sample of your own and label them for future reference. You might want to start your own book of samples.

That is what  I am doing now when I don’t feel like knitting. I am using  large notebooks with pictures and directions and putting in all the samples I have knitted .They will be going with my passap when I sell her so that the next person does not have to spend all of their time on the internet looking for directions on a particular technique.  So far I have about 5 notebooks but I am going to organize them better.

The picture above is in my drop box with the other raglan decreases.

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/lhfvnw0ncnhgs0t/AADJ_PxwCNWUnUe41dJ7IkA2a?dl=0

Happy Easter


DSCF3946   Happy Easter! Here is the pattern for my Nerdy Easter bunny mug rug!

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/pcyns3ripwqaw9d/AAAm1GMgf5sfrfP-RYvYIlE_a?dl=0

Passap vs Brother Placemat by Tricia Shafer


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I made this  Tricia Shafer plated place mat(top picture)  on the Brother years ago and I liked it. I decided to make it again. When I finished, I decided to try to duplicate it on the Passap. And that is when I found out I can’t. (Notice , I said “I can’t” , maybe someone else can) I also found out from a friend in Arizona that there is a plating attachment for the passap, though rare to find.

I made the placemat on the Brother with two strands of Estillo for both yarns . On the botton one made on the passap I used one strand of Diamonte. I tried two strands of Estillo to start and I think I had problems because I did not have the right tensions. Looking back now, I bet it would be the same size as the first one if I did use the 2 strands of estillo.

Here are the comparisons . The plated mat is heavier and had a great shape when it came off the machine.  The passap was made just using blue diamonte using the same amount of stitches . The passap mat is smaller by about one and a half inches but it still is a nice size. The passap mat is not as nice shaped and is much lighter. The pattern came out nice on both mats done on different machines. So, I have to give the vote to Brother just because I don’t have the plating attachment for the Passap. 😦

To make this on the passap, I cast on N/N 1/1  and knitted the two CX 2../2.. rows and the N/N 5/5 row and then I transferred stitches from the front bed to the back bed.

Below is the  set up on the front bed.(of course you will have more needles than the diagram) The ends have 2 needles in work . The dots are the needles out of work.The back bed has all of the needles in work and the racking handle is down while knitting. You will put it up when transferring the stitches so the needles line up at the beginning transfers.

I cast on 63-63 on front bed and one less on back bed so the end needles are on the front bed. After transferring the front bed stitches to the back bed,(if you have one left over double up the stitches so that both ends look like the diagram below) put those needles out of work and put pushers in work under the remaining needles in work. Set locks to LX/N. I set the back bed tension to 5 and the front bed tension to 3. On the Brother the tensions were 7 on the main bed and 3 on the ribber. The sequence is six rows of knitting at LX/N and then 2 rows of LX/GX so that only the front bed needles knit.ALSO:in her pattern , Tricia  only does two rows of knitting instead of six between the  rows , two times,and you can see that in the pattern. There are three lines close together dividing the mat in 3. There are 158 rows of knitting . To finish transfer the front bed stitches to the back bed and bind off the stitches.

11.1.111.1.1.1.1.1.111.1.1.1.1.1.111.1.11

 

Passap Storytime Quilt-Charlene Shafer


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I learn something new every time I use my knitting machines. I started looking  through a lot of old patterns I have and I had Charlene Shafers Storytime Quilt book. I decided to use up some yarn I have and play around with her motifs in this book. Well, four to five hours later I came up with this.

Here is what I learned. The cows are unhappy in the barn and want to live in the house since it is bigger.  The rooster is mad because he can’t find any of the hens and he got sunburned sitting on the fence all day . Farmer Jack is steaming  mad because he started to collect the bales of hay and the rain clouds are getting his hay wet.Mrs farmer Jack is mad because she has the laundry drying on the clothes line and she is stuck in the  out house and can’t get to it before the rain comes. …….well it is a story time afghan. 🙂

Okay, seriously I did not want to make a four color blanket because I wanted a lot of design and I did not want a super long afghan. The blanket uses four colors but it is knitted with a three color technique-199. I used hunter green , white and yellow until I knitted the last top stitch of the flowers on row 120. Then I changed to red as the third color and knitted to row 804 and then changed the red back to yellow so the tractor and hay were yellow.  What I learned is that the afghan in my house looks like a normal hunter green all the way through it. In the picture it looks darker where the red is behind the green. You can only see the line in the picture . I kind of like the darker look so the cows spots look black. lol  I thought of duplicate stitching the green spots on the cow but I am okay with it. So is you want to make something like this you might want to stick with four colors all the way through.

All in all I think it is kind of cute and tells it’s own story. I had fun making it and my passap was knitting like a dream and not one error with the whole afghan . I did have one thing happen but it was my stupidity. When I noticed the second strand of green had run out(did not wind enough off) I was 24 rows past the run out point. I still had the afghan knitted in an hour. I even took the time to see how much of each color of yarn I used.

Mistake in directions


Hi, my Editor (lol) informed me that there was a mistake  in my directions for the diamond in a diamond on my previous blog. I corrected it . When you cast on the racking handle will be down so needles don’t hit one another. Then when you start knitting the diamond, the racking handle will be up.  I hope no one tried this yet since it would really make you frustrated. So sorry  😦

Short Rowed Scarf made on the Brother Machine


 

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I was talking to a woman that contacted me to learn the passap machine. She was telling me that a knitting guild she belonged to had a knitting challenge doing any machine knitted  item that was short rowed. She told me a woman in the guild made the most beautiful scarf and that she wanted to try it. She found the pattern and I liked it and bought it . I used a yarn that has the feel of perla. It is a thin yarn and the variegated yarn was even thinner. I did not crochet around the scarf when I was done. I used the “worm” edging . The worm edging is on you tube by Kate Winslow. The edge still curls a little bit but I think it is okay.

This was a lot of fun to make.Breezy Spencer  states in her pattern that  you have to concentrate ….and you do…..but once you start to knit you will see that you don’t have to look at the pattern any more. Her pattern tells you the yarn she used and that she made hers on the Bulky. I don’t like wide scarves so I used the same amount of stitches in her pattern and made mine on the Brother standard gauge machine. The pattern is five dollars and it is on Ravelry and it is called Machine Knit Short Row Scarf by Breezy Spencer

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