Archive for yarn

Fringe on the Passap by Irene Krieger


<a href=”https://cckittenknits.files.wordpress.com/2013/01/dscf08011.jpg”&gt;DSCF0800[1]

DSCF0801[1]

href=”https://cckittenknits.files.wordpress.com/2013/01/dscf08031.jpg”&gt;DSCF0803[1]
This is the first sample of fringe on the passap using both beds by Irene Krieger. The first picture is how the fringe comes off of the machine.The needle set up is 3 stitches on the top and bottom bed on the left and leave empty needles in between and then three needles on the right on the top and bottom beds. When you finish, you will only permanently cast off the needles on the left so that the needles on the right will unravel. The last picture is with the strands cut. She states in article that this is a sparse looking fringe. I will let you see the difference on my next samples. These samples are in the May 1995 issue of Machine Knitting News.

Braided Fringe on the Passap using Both Needle Beds


DSCF0804[1]
I am working on fringe samples by Irene Krieger and she uses both beds so I thought I would try the braided fringe using her needle set up. First of all, it was easier. Did not have to open both beds to hang the twisted fringe. Secondly I used one needle on the top bed and one needle on the bottom bed on the right and the stitches stayed put. One loop was a little larger than the other but not bad. However, the drawback is that you can’t lift the bars on the two rows beneath the needles in work on the left and that leaves a wider space between the fringe. Joyce commented on the last post that the pink was done on the passap because the fringe is closer together. Very observant! I like the one on the passap better because of that.

Braided Fringe On the Passap and the Brother Machines


DSCF0799[1]
I’m back! I have been doing some serious cleaning in my house and have not done much knitting. Of course the temptation is strong to quit cleaning! Anyway, I saw this fringe on you tube with Diana Sullivan demonstrating the technique on a Silver Reed machine I believe.

I tried it on the Brother machine and I put the needle on the far right in hold position and then put the yarn under the needle and knitted back. It worked quite well since the stitch to the far right was not knitting well since it was not e wrapped on. So then I thought, this can be done on the passap too. The only difference is that you have to work on the back bed of the passap and you have to open the beds up every four rows to twist the loops and lift the bars from the two rows below. This will make sense if you watch the video. I also saw a video of a woman hand knitting a scarf and she stopped mid row and did one of these braids. She did a whole row of them and it was cute and unusual. I think this fring is so cute and would look good on a scarf or as purse trim….hmmmm….
So….which one did I do on the Passap?

Slipper Socks on the Brother 940 in Fine Lace


 

 

 

 

Every now and then I like to do “No thinking” knitting and get something finished. I am making these slipper socks for my Etsy store. They are made with CanCun yarn on the Brother standard machine. It is a baby bootie pattern that I used and just changed stitches and rows to fit adult foot. The cuffs are doubled which is nice because they don’t stretch out and they keep your ankle warm.

Potato Chip Scarf made with Pirouette Yarn


I made this Scarf with a yarn that is like Starbella and costs the same. It is called Pirouette by Patons. I was surprised when it did not come out as long as I wanted it to and found it only has three ounces to the skein. I can’t remember if I had to use two of starbella for the long white one that I made. It has an edge on it that is soft balls in a velour like yarn. It also has sequins and it is in different shades of blue. It measures 36 inches long and it will look nice just hanging around the neck. I must say that this yarn feels as soft around the neck as the Starbella does.

If you left click on the picture with your mouse you can see the detail in the yarn.

A Larger Felted Bag with Needle Felting


This is another makeup bag or whatever you choose to put into it that has a wider metal frame and the ball clasps are black. I lined the inside of the bag with a cotton material . It was so hard to get the felted piece of material with the lining in between the metal pieces to sew it together. It is only basted in right now. I am going to use embroidery floss to sew in permanently since the yarn was so thick on the first one and I broke so many needles. The color is lime and I will get a better picture when I put it in my Etsy store. The rows I knitted were 100 and 50 stitches wide. I did not have a lot of excess material on this one. When I make the next one I am thinking of using stitch witchery just to fuse the lining to the felt around the top edge to keep pieces together. Update 4/21/12 This is the finished bag. I used embroidery floss to connect the purse to the frame after basting it in with thread. It is now available in my Etsy Store.

Passap E-Wrap Cast On in Two Colors


I found this ewrap by Kamalini Trentham for machines like the Brother that you can pull the needles all the way out to hold position and then knit one row. I decided to do it on the passap machine. I first cast on with waste yarn. Then I knitted one row of ravel cord at loose tension. I pulled all of the needles all the way out as far as they come. You take two different colors of  yarn and tie ends together and start at the left to ewrap first with one color and then the next color all the way to the right. The important thing here is to make sure the yarns are crossed and the wrapping colour lays over the top of the wrapped color. When you are finished, you can’t knit these back with the machine so you hand knit the first row to the left. Bring the carriage across on G/X setting and start knitting your garment. This is a nice flat edge and there is no bulk or pulling. I think you can go any thickness of yarn for this since you will be hand knitting the trim back. On my sample, if I was to make a simple sweater I think I would double the strands of each color for a little more thickness. The black you see in the picture is just the background color to make the trim stand out.

 

Felted Black Purse with Chickadee


I knitted this purse the same way as the brown one but I used Paton’s wool yarn. I made the body of the bag longer but the straps shorter . I knitted the pocket piece first and hung on the bottom stitches when doing the back.  I inserted a zipper in the pocket for safety. I used black and grey fabric to cover the plastic canvas in the bottom and up the sides of the bag. I used a magnetic snap and I felted a button. I had a beautiful black and grey button but the snap would not allow attachment without the button wobbling around. I made the circle in DAK and started design of isolated motif on row 10. The circle was 42 rows so I did ten rows after the circle and 22 rows which is the length of tab.

I found a picture of a chickadee and I resized it to one quarter of its size so that it would fit into picture. The left picture shows the zipper in the pocket opening and the right picture shows the inside of the purse. The material is dark black with grey and is very subtle. The flash makes it appear light grey.It took me three hours to needlefelt the design onto the front. I hand sewed the sides of the pocket and the insides of the material covered plastic canvas. The purse took three skeins of yarn. It is 10 inches wide by 9 inches tall and 2 inches deep. It is for sale in my Etsy shop .

Loop Closures Done on the Passap


I found an article in Duet International Magazine Number 18 March 1994 by Pat Cook on an alternative to fastening a garment with a loop and button. I thought it looked unique and there is no sewing. I pulled out some of my swatch samples(I should have picked better colors!) and decided to give it a try. I folded each side of the swatch to act like a double band. I followed the instructions given to make the loop on the passap. It is made using two needles on each bed and tension 5.5 on both locks and CX/CX on both beds. Knit 60 rows and graft the ends of the strand together forming a loop. Then you mark the band with pins for the entry point of your latch tool to pull the loop through the fabric in two places (one near the outer edge and one towards the inner edge. You will have two loops on top side of band and you will pull the outer loop through the inner loop and you are finished.

The next two pictures are the loops open and the underneath of the band showing the inside and the fact that it is not sewn on. I definitely want to try a jacket with this. It was fun.

If you don’t want to knit the cord, the fabric stores have a wonderful supply of cords that you could use to make the loops and attach to your garment. Of course, the fun is all in making them yourself. I did not place pins on my sample so they are not spaced evenly but you can get the idea. Another way of marking the band would be to put thread markers on the rows evenly spaced so that when you finish you know they will be right. Below is the diagram on placing the loops into the garment. Double click on picture to enlarge.

Fancy Stripes using the U 100 transfer carriage


These samples are from an article from Machine Knitters Source by Barbara Corley. This is from the same article that the previous samples were from . This is what she calls fancy stripes. She suggests a variegated yarn for the main color. I did that. The sample to the left is every other needle on the front bed. She suggests playing around so I used every fouth needle in the sample at the right. This design has quite a few steps but can be memorized easily if you do it enough.

This sample is the same using a solid color of yarn. The main issue with this design is to make sure the tensions are right so that the loops from the front bed don’t drop off before transfer.

This technique can be done on any machine because it does not use the console. On the U 100 you use Number 4. You use all back bed needles and every other needle on the front bed(or whatever combination you want)

Then you repeat:

2 rows MC, N/GX

1 row CC, N/N

1 row CC, N/GX

4 rows MC, N/GX

1 row CC, N/GX

1 row CC,N/N     After all of these rows you use the transfer carriage to transfer front stitches to back bed. It seems confusing but once you try it you will see the pattern that is happening. This would look beautiful on a jacket. The reverse side of the fabric is stripes. Left double click on pictures to see detail

« Previous entries