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Passap Simple Single Bed Cast On

I rarely knit on the single bed of the passap.  However, I am working on trying to knit  my slipper socks in Fair Isle on the passap.  I usually knit them on the Brother 940 using a fine lace design and Can Cun yarn. For my sample,   I just wanted a quick cast on to try the body of the slipper.  The cast on I usually use is doing a zig zag row on both beds and putting in the cast on comb and then dropping the back bed stitches. I feel that is pretty quick but this is even quicker.

I came across this simple cast on in the book Simply Passap Vol 1, Number 4, December 1989 and it does not use the cast on comb.

Here is how it is done.  Raise the front bed needles you will be using to work position. Set the front lock to N and the back lock to GX. At tension 2 knit one row to the left. Take your 1×1 orange tool and push up every other needle until the loop falls off. Then put the needles back in work position.When you knit back, the empty needles take on a new loop. Set tension to 4 and knit slowly to the right. The key word is “slowly”.  Gradually increase tensions 1 number each row until you get to the number tension you want.Be sure to check each row to make sure all needles knitted.  I then took a brother comb and hung it on the stitches just to be sure stitches did not drop on my sample.


Passap Afghan from Tatiana Knits


DSCF1999My friend Susie emailed me  a picture of this file from Tatiana Knits that she saw on a machine knitters group on Facebook. I love the design. I could not wait to make it. So I bought the file. File, not the directions to  make it. First of all, when I went to download, I noticed the width of the pattern is only 153 stitches. I realized then that this would come out very long and narrow. So I decided to use the fantasy fair isle since that comes out larger. While I find this design very stunning, I first knitted it in navy and cranberry and the pattern was lost. That was my fault. So I made it again using cranberry and white. However, up close you can see the white . I think this would be more stunning using technique 187 but it will come out even narrower. I would love to make many more if the design went from 153 needles to 178 needles. I am going to contact her and ask her if she would consider working on design to make it larger.  I spent an hour and a half and enlarged it myself and it changes the look but does not detract from beauty of it. I will make one using that also with technique 187 if she does not have plans to enlarge it.

Since this was just the file I know that it can be frustrating to new passap knitters. If you buy the pattern I would be happy to share the directions I wrote down about how I made this from cast on to cast off. The afghan takes 17 ounces of main color and 12 ounces of the second color. The finished size is approximately 40 inches wide and the length is approximately 69 inches. I used two strands of 2/24.  I bought another pattern for another stunning design from her but it is also 153 stitches wide. I guess I would have to ask what the width and length  of a file is the next time.

I have to say that I think this design is a real winner and very stunning. The only drawback is the width. Because it is narrow, it is a good passap beginner project since it does not go all the way to both end needles. It took me a little over an hour to knit each one and there are no mistakes in either one of them . It is also great using fair isle fantasy since it does not use back bed pushers.

Oh, by the way, have I ever mentioned how I love this passap ? It knitted like a dream the whole 1,968 rows for both of them combined. lol

Now if my sock machine will just co operate like my passap I would be a happy camper. 🙂



New Link to Drop Box for Mug Rugs

I believe this link will work now for the mug rug files and directions. I also added a snowflake design mug rug pattern. Follow the same instructions as the others being careful to notice how many stitches the pattern has so you set up the right and left needles correctly.

Static Electricity on your knitting machine.

This is my continuing saga of my problem on my passap E6000 with an afghan  knitting pattern. Many of you have responded and I really appreciate the feedback. I am now on row 600 of that same afghan . I took suggestions and tried again. Here is what happened. I downloaded the pattern again, plugged the console into a power strip and not the wall outlet. When I came to the very same row as the error the first time, the same thing happened again. Here is what I did to try to continue. I went into win/crea and opened a new file. I went to the afghan  pattern and I copied the file up to the row with the error. I pasted that part into the new file. I went back to the afghan pattern and then copied the other part and pasted into the new file. Then I saved the new file and downloaded it. This worked until the next error. So the saga continues.

So I went online to see about grounding my machine. I found this site and it is pretty simple.

My girlfriend and I were discussing this yesterday also and here was what she said. When the patterns came out on discs, the authors had a glitch put into a track so that if the disk was copied , there would be errors. Another possibility is a magnet was near the disk. IF, and that is a big IF I finish this I will make another afghan of someone else’s and know for sure. Will keep you posted.

I am finished with Lydia!!!


I started another afghan in Lydia’s Afghan Series 3. I just took a quick picture with my phone so you can’t see the main color, but the colors are really pretty. The main color is a light tan with specks of turquoise and wine in it. I love the pattern. BUT….it happened again. My pattern went off by a stitch . You can see where it happened where the arrows are. I don’t know that I want to try anymore of her patterns if this is what will always happen. So, my next project will be another afghan just to make sure it is not my knitting machine. What I don’t get is that when I bring the pattern into win/crea, there are no errors in the pattern. So again, machine or pattern?

Passap E6000 Lydias Afghans Series 4



I made another afghan because I have yarn that is multiplying as I type this. This is another one of Lydia’s pattern and I did not have pusher issues that I can see. It leads me to believe my previous problems with the afghan were the file. I love this design but the afghan was only 924 rows so it can only be used as a lap afghan or a chair back cover. I decided to make a pillow using one section of the pattern . I had the pillow form and put it on the afghan to figure what size I wanted it. Then I went into the program and copied and pasted into a new file just for the pillow. The pillow form was 16 by 16 and the size came out perfect . When I finished both squares(I knitted the same pattern for the back so it is reversible) I then placed wrong sides together and crocheted through both sides around the pillow. Before  closing the fourth side, I inserted the pillow.  The crocheting around the pillow took longer than it did to knit the two pieces. haha

I think the prettiest thing about the pattern is the color that I used for the leaves. It looks tan but it is a very very light color of olive green. The finished size is only 34 inches wide by 44 inches long.

Passap Scarf Knitted without the Console



I saw this rib pattern in the Passap Club patterns Number 11. It is a beautiful rib. It is made with the needles in a 2by2 rib using AX/N with both arrow keys pushed in: automatic pattern. I used a yarn I had by Bramwell called Hot Pink duo spun. It is a nice light weight acrylic. I decided to make a cowl scarf . I made it 48 inches and it is perfect. I wanted it around the neck for warmth. This is a gift for someone. I will explain the pusher set up and my tensions in the pattern information. This will make a great quick Christmas gift that will not take you longer than an hour to make.

Here are my directions


How to shorten a garment after it is sewn together

finished attaching hem

I went to the ladies house that had come to my house and Sheila and I had a wonderful time.(We also met up with two knitters from our old guild that had stopped meeting and that added to the excitement). Her name is Patty and she was a wonderful hostess. We came away with mugs with our names on them that she had made, Halloween candy, an angel she made with jewelry beads .She gave us a bag to carry it all with her home town on it with a picture of a covered bridge that still stands there complete with the walk for pedestrians to use that runs along  the side. And of course, she gave me the felting machine that I can’t wait to try. She baked cookies and ordered pizza for our lunch. She also had a tray of cheese and crackers and spinach dip! My favorite. We met her husband Greg and her doggie Bosco and her parrot Howie. They all behaved while we were there in her home. LOL

After we stuffed ourselves she took us to her woman cave . It is her whole basement and her hubby only  gets one small corner. She showed us her knitting machines, embroidery machine, her kiln, her potters wheel, her egg cutting station and all of her other hobbies.

Patty told me she had not shortened the sleeves on the sweater yet so I told her I would do it. I decided to document this so that if you ever need to do it, don’t fret, it is very easy. I just had a small hem on the sleeves but if you have ribbing you can do it the same way. Then you would re hang the sleeve and attach the rib. If you don’t like a bound off edge on the inside you could rehang the sleeve stitches and take off on waste yarn and then Kitchener stitch the cuff to it. You can also do this on a sweater length. Maybe you have a long style and don’t want it long anymore. Or you made it from cotton and it is stretching too long . I would encourage all of you to try it once on a tension swatch just to see how easy it is and not to be afraid to try it. If you are using acrylic you might want to lightly steam the stitches where you are going to remove the hem so that the stitches don’t unravel.

Here are pictures and a word document at this drop box link explaining how to do it. 🙂

Passap E 6000 Console Repair

I managed to rescue an E 6000 for a friend I know in Maine that was looking for one. It was on Craigs list at a location that was ten minutes away. I went to see the machine and bought it. I cleaned it all up but had trouble with the console. I found a place near me that changed the battery for 15.00 including the battery. Still had trouble with the console. I called Pat Groves and she gave me the name of a gentleman in up state New York that can repair them. I emailed him and asked him if he could do the repair. I shipped it to him and he received it in two days. In two weeks he had it repaired and shipped to the lady this machine was for. I called him to thank him and I found out his wife has some passap machines and he started to do this because of problems that came up with hers. He explained what the problem was for the one I had and emailed me with a quote and the cost. Very reasonable. I called him and I asked if it was okay to post his email in case anyone gets in a bind and can’t find someone for repair. He told me yes but he also  told me to tell you that he is slow on getting this done since he does work full time and has other things going on in his life. I asked him if he thought this two week frame time was long and he said yes !  lol  Not to me. I thought it was great. His name is Joe Beem and his email is :

Keep this in your files because you never know when you might need a repair. 🙂

Passap Knitting Tubular using OX/DX

I have a book called Pat’s Passap Primer.  I was leafing  through the book and I find a pattern for a bottle cover knitted in tubular tuck stitch. This looks interesting. Here is a picture of the diagram in the Duett International Magazine. Next to it is the set up from the pattern from Pat Wetzel.  Look at the pusher arrangement in technique 163. It is the opposite of the E6000.

tubulartuckknitting001 tubulartuckknitting002


Tuck stitch side

Tuck stitch side

Lousy lookingside

Lousy looking side


I read the pattern and it says to use the settings DX on both locks. Well, the E 6000 does not have that letter D on the front lock so I figured the pattern was for the DM80. So I played around and came to the conclusion it was OX that I used on the front bed. I set up the needles and it would knit every other stitch  and tuck every other stitch on the back bed but not on the front bed. I tried and tried and nothing worked. The back bed would knit perfectly but the front put the tuck stitch on the back bed closing the tube.  I gave up and  I walked away for a few days. Then a light bulb went off. The console must have to be on. DUH! I found my book of techniques and technique 163 was what I used and the settings were OX/DX. And in the technique book it shows that the pushers on the opposite bed are the opposite of what the pattern said. So I try it again and I was able to make a bottle cover. Of course, I had too much weight on and the bottle cover  came out longer. But that wasn’t the only problem. The racking handle is up and the needles face each other . I had a nice seam edge on the left side but when the yarn came around and knitted from the right to the left there was a loop on the end needle because it was a tuck stitch. So I made another in red and white stripes and I decided to hand knit the one stitch with the loop on it. Better, but I would not be happy with it. So I talked to my girlfriend Sheila and at the same time we said ” Add another end needle on the right front bed . The pushers on the left end stitches were both in the up position but it looks okay. On the right, the back bed was in the down position and I put the first one on the right end in the up position.  I did that and it looks nice. The tuck side is pretty but the bottle cover looked so plain but this is listed as an easy project.

Sooooooooo…. here is what I came up with. The tuck side is pretty but the other side  looks like ribbing. My thoughts were, this would look nice as the body of the sock after the ribbing.  So I used some sock yarn and just cast on with waste yarn  and knitted the tube using the extra needle. You can see a line when the yarn is at rest but when I put it over the calf of my leg(yes, that is my leg on the machine-lol) it stretches out and you don’t see it. The picture of it on my leg (below)is with the knit side on the outside. Just a thought for those of you that make socks on the passap. I used Serenity sock yarn at a tension of 6../6..  I did another sample and tried knitting a tighter tension and it made the tuck pattern almost fade away. This sample was knit with 25 back bed stitches and 26 front bed stitches and it is too large for me as it gets to my ankle. You would have to play around with your tension and you can always do decreases as you get to the ankle. Pat’s pattern has you do the three row cast on and then transfer stitches to the front bed. Very difficult to hang a weight. So I think if you did one inch of ribbing, transferred the stitches to the front bed you will have adequate knitting to hang sock weights on. I tried it and it worked nicely. So this was my learning experience for the week. 🙂

Knitted Side

Knitted Side


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