Archive for sweaters

Passap Cut and Sew Neckline


passap neckline

Tina, this posting is for you. 🙂
Tina asked me if I all of my work was cut and sew(necklines)
I told her that I did knit one sweater and divided the work at the neck and finished each side. Would I do it again? Absolutely not. I am a definite believer in cut and sew for passap double bed work.
I used the side of a scarf that I started and did not like so you will see the stitches going sideways. lol Ladies, get your tension swatches out and lets try this technique.

Most of my sweaters I made were finished with the following technique that I will share with you. I just know it as the sandwich neckline. I believe it might also be called the commercial neckline. I have had this information for over 30 years so it has been around.
I read somewhere that a neckline will make or break a sweater and I believe that to be true. You can also add button and buttonhole bands and cuffs using this sandwich technique. I did this on a blue diamonte sweater that was posted on my blog.

The first step is to just knit the front of your sweater straight up from the armholes. Then take the shoulders off on separate pieces of waste yarn. Then take the middle neck stitches off on waste yarn. You will join one shoulder and then figure the number of stitches for your ribbing.

You can make neck templates from cardboard by using your favorite sweaters to see how much of a drop you like. I don’t like ribbing that chokes me so my templates are around 3 inches with a two inch tall ribbing. I also like the look of a 2 by 2 rib and you get more stretch so it is not too tight going over your head.
My sample is a 1 by 1. The ribbing is double so if you want a one inch ribbing and your gauge is 12 rows to one inch, you would knit 24 rows. My sample is 22 rows.

I always do tension swatches and launder the fabric and wait a day before knitting.
That way I know how many shoulder and neck stitches I will have to take off separately on waste yarn.
When I knit the back of my sweater I do a one inch drop. I do the same as for the front neckline but just make a straight line one inch from edge and angle the line up to the shoulders. When you see how the front is done this will make sense to you.

I have pictures showing you how I do this along with some more instructions in the drop box link below.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/mm6dk3z2ac0yqtm/Finishing%20a%20neckline%20using%20the%20back%20stitch%20by%20hand.pdf?dl=0

 

 

My next posting will be the cut and sew without the sandwich. I have added a pdf file with both of these instructions if you want to try them . I also have a sheet that explains the procedure in detail. If you have any problems or questions, feel free to email me. Hope you try it!
Happy Knitting!

Brother 940 Lace Sweater


 

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This sweater I knitted on the Brother 940 was SO NOT WORTH IT! My original idea was a lace overlay in gray over a black sweater and it was going to be attached at the neck and armholes. I did tension swatches in black Diamonte and gray Tepeyac. I decided to make the front of the black sweater first. Then I started on the gray lace overlay. I spent a long time trying to figure out how to start the lace edge and how many stitches to increase to make the diagonal. Then I think it took me 8 hours just to do the front that actually became the back. lol I knitted too far and was not going to rip it back so I continued and made it the back. When I finished it I realized that Tepeyac is a little heavier than Diamonte and the sweater would be too heavy for my liking. Then I thought that I would just make a gray lace sweater and wear a turtleneck. The lace pattern is 158 in Stitch World .

For every two rows of knitting you have to run the lace carriage across 8 times. I figured that between the front, back and the two sleeves, I ran the lace carriage 4,304 times! It was actually more because I did not count the left front shaping. I knew when I chose it that it would take time but I never figured it to be that much time. The first time I dropped a stitch, it took at least 15 minutes to correct it. And with eight passes between two rows, there were many times a stitch could drop. Because it was so hard to rip out, I knitted a thin piece of nylon thread in with the regular yarn every 20 rows . I think hand knitters call this a life line. I used almost the whole spool of thread but it definitely was worth it. The thread was so strong that it pulled out like ravel cord.

Originally, I was going to have black stockinette sleeves. However, when I changed my mind and decided on gray stockinette sleeves, I had to knit another tension swatch .I did that and laundered it and knitted a sleeve and attached it and……did not like it. I removed it and went back to the lace design for the sleeves. Now add two more days of knitting but I like the look better with the lace sleeves.

To start the lace on a diagonal, I knit up the amount of stitches needed for the front , first with waste yarn, then a crochet cast on and knit one row of gray and removed on waste yarn. When I increased, I just hung the stitches from the strip that I had knitted up. I hung six stitches every four rows. When I removed the waste yarn it looked like I had cast on at the beginning. When I finished the front and back, I crocheted in the cast on stitch on the wrong side. The edge had a wave to it so I crocheted 1 stitch in the next 3 stitches and then 3 crochets in one stitch, then 1 stitch in the next three stitches and then skipped a stitch . I repeated around the bottom. Then I crocheted a second row with the right side facing me. It was like crocheting a ripple afghan .

Oh, one last thing. Because I was originally going to do the two sweaters hooked together I made a higher neck line since I would not be wearing a turtleneck under it. So when I finished the front , I thought the neck was too high so I did a cut and sew neckline. That was fun….not!

I recently saw a beautiful lace cardigan on one of the Facebook knitting machine groups and the woman said that for the time it took her, she would have been better off going out and buying a sweater. I am in agreement with her there! 🙂

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Passap Double Jacquard Square Neck Tunic


Front of Passap DJ Tunic Sweater

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Side view showing ribbing on sleeve and side seam

I tried the square neckline in my last posting because I wanted to make a square necked tunic.  I used Bramwell’s Duo Magic in olive green and wood pigeon! What color is that you ask? It is like a beige color. I used pattern 1289 (8 stitches by 8 rows)in the passap pattern book and technique 183. After I figured the number of stitches I needed I realized it was the perfect amount for the sides to match….a first for me.

I did the neck ribbing after I finished the front .  I sort of thought it looked plain and matronly but I continued to knit the back  .  I figured out how to knit the back with a one inch drop without doing a cut and sew. Then I knit the back rib .

I have not done a lot of double bed knitting of garments but I thought the shoulder seam would be thick with four sets of stitches. I decided to make a band of ribbing that would mask that if it happened. I hung the shoulder stitches right sides together with the ribbing in-between. I then cast off. The shoulder seam is really flat . Now I am looking at it and thinking it is still pretty plain looking and not sure I should have done the ribbing on the shoulders. I came up with the idea of ribbing between the side seams near the hem. I did the same thing by putting the ribbing between the two fabrics right sides together. Okay, not so plain. Now for the sleeves!  The sleeves were 400 knitted rows!!!  I finished both sleeves and then got to thinking   of how to put a ribbing on the sleeve but not between the seam. I knitted up the ribbing, took it off on waste yarn and latch tooled the open stitches from the inside between a knitted column. It worked. lol

Here is what I learned while knitting this.

To take stitches off on waste yarn on a brother is easy .You just pull out the needles to hold that you don’t want to knit. I had to figure out how to do this to remove the left side stitches of the front to work on the right side. I figured out how to do this on the passap and laughed when I succeeded. I used pushers under the front needles I wanted to remove and LX setting on front lock and GX on back lock. On the back I brought in pushers and used BX and GX on the front lock.. I took off circular and it made it easier to rehang  the stitches to do the left front shaping.

The next thing I learned is that when your increases or decreases are in every row if you don’t put the end pushers up on the front bed, the end needles will start to have stitches pile up . That is because you knit four rows for one row and the second color did not always knit the end stitches because of the pattern.I experienced this on the sleeve cap.

The third thing I did was when I knitted the sleeves, I started with 60 stitches and got to 120 at the underarm. When setting up the pattern I set the Left and Right stitches at 35- and 35+. This way, when I was knitting I did not have to take the locks all the way out to needle 60 so the console would not beep and make me reset the pattern. I kept doing this as I increased in increments of five. I never forgot once. What also surprised me is that I never forgot to put a pusher in work or out of work. When I first knitted on the passap , I always forgot since you don’t have to worry about that on a brother machine.

I am now happy with the sweater and especially with the weight of it. I love Bramwell yarns and I am glad I made this sweater instead of an afghan. AND I still have 8 ounces of yarn left on each cone!

Was it as easy as I thought it would be? Yes and  No.  I would say it was more time consuming than difficult. Every time I decreased or increased it was on each bed and it took a lot of time. On my sleeves I had 28 increases on both sides to the underarm. That means four decrease each time(both ends and front and back bed) On the sleeve cap there were 1 stitch decreases on almost all of the rows until the last rows at the top. I think the first sleeve took me 2&1/2 hours to do. The neckline probably took about that length of time also. I started to laugh when I was knitting the front. It was 292 rows on the front to the underarm and it felt like I was knitting an afghan!!!!    🙂

 

 

 

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Passap Mitered Trim for Square Neckline


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I really like square necklines but have never done one….go figure!  It has been so hot and humid and I have been trapped inside so I started looking through books that I have. I came across the instructions for a mitered band for a square neckline knitted on the passap in the book Going Places Knitting Technique Passap, designs by Jan Wold and Jan Mills.

I really like how it turned out. It is a lot of moving the needles down the right and left side  of each corner after you decrease at the corner but I would definitely do one on the machine. My girlfriend Sheila could probably knit it faster than it takes me to do it on the machine.No, not probably, she could!

One thing I don’t get is, after you move all the stitches down( and it is done twice over four rows of the decrease) she tells you to take the end most stitch on the bed and transfer it to the other bed and then take the heel of the stitch next to the needle you just emptied and move it to the right(or left) to keep in a one by one sequence. What is happening is that you are actually decreasing two stitches at the corner and then move all the work over and increase one stitch on each end. I get that but if you look at the edge at the shoulder, it curves up and I would not include that curve when I sew the rib together from the back. Maybe it is there to give and edge to sew.

The great thing about a square neck is there is no neckline shaping on the front of the sweater and that is nice if you are doing double jacquard.  I just might make a sweater for myself and try this out. I did not do a good job of picking up the neckline stitches on the side but would definitely pay attention on the real thing. Also, the side of the little sample is knit at a higher tension since I took off the middle stitches on waste yarn and forgot to turn the tension back down. Of course that won’t happen if I knit a sweater for real. haha

This can be done on all machines with a ribber, but be careful of how you hang the body of the sweater before starting to make sure you are on the right side. This sample has the main body of the sweater wrong side facing and hung on the back bed to start.

Knitted Dog Coat for Petey


My project for today was fun but not totally successful.  I knitted a piece of fabric on the passap machine that was 25 inches long. I bought fleece material with paw prints for the lining. I bought a sewing pattern for the coat. I used 2 strands of 224 yarn for the fabric .

It was almost impossible to get a good picture with him moving around so much. I liked the pattern because it has an opening for the collar to come through to hook the leash. This is easy to get on him when he is moving because it has velcro on the underneath of his tummy and around the neck so nothing goes over his head. I don’t know that the collar helps at all . I think it should go all the way around instead of a half circle. The pattern says the collar can be folded back also . Why?

Now, what I don’t like is that the knitted fabric did not have to be that thick. One strand of 224 would have been good thickness. Secondly, I would like it to be two inches longer to go to back of tail(hard to measure a moving target! )and I would like the sides to come down about another half inch. I will make this again because I first bought black and white paw print fleece material so I have to use it up and there isn’t enough of it to make a fleece pair of pajama bottoms for me. lol

And Another Miniature Sweater


I made this miniature sweater in a Christmas green and the fairisle design in a white sparkle yarn that does not show up in picture. The neckline looks like it is a turtleneck inside of the sweater because of a row of stitching at the neck. The back has the snowflake fairisle design without the snowflakes. It is three inches tall and 6 inches from cuff to cuff. It has its own little hanger. It is for sale in my Etsy store

Miniature Knitted Sparkle Sweater


I knitted this miniature out of a yarn that I think is called Flash-not sure. Both the red and the white have a sparkle to them that the picture does not show too well. It is for sale in my Etsy store.

http://www.etsy.com/shop/CCKITTENKNITS?ref=si_shop

Miniature Sweater with Christmas Lights


I knitted this Miniature in tan and red because you could not see the lights on the red or green or navy. the second sweater I knitted a wreath by isolating the design. Then I  sewed beads and a bow on in gold. The collar is crocheted. The third one I have made before. All have covered hangers. All are made with Trenzado yarn  and all are for sale in my Etsy store.

Another Miniature Sweater


I knitted this little miniature sweater with roll cuffs, band and collar. I isolated a motif of tree and duplicate stitched with a green and silver sparkle yarn. I sewed the star at the top. It is for sale in my Etsy store.

Two More Miniature Knitted Sweaters


 

 

 

Here are two more miniature ornaments I made this past weekend. Both are available in my Etsy store

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