Archive for Passap Techniques

Passap Knitting Machine Drop Stitch Accessory Tool


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About month ago my girlfriend sold her Passap Knitting Machine to a very nice lady named Tina. When Tina was here, she was asking about all of the accessories that go with the passap . She asked about doing lace and I told her that the machine will do lace and the drop stitch tool helps to do that. I directed her to my blog to show her some examples. We were also discussing the parts on the machine that are plastic and with age, have cracked or broken. I told her that when I bought my first passap, I was using the needle selector to get the pushers out of the back rail and the needle selector snapped in half lengthwise. It sits in my room with duct tape on it and I can not use the straight edge of it anymore. Also, my first and second passap machines both had breaks in the yarn guides.

Recently a package arrived on my doorstep and I was surprised to see what was inside. Tina’s 13 year old son made a “Drop Stitch” accessory on his 3D printer and he wanted me to use it and evaluate it. He told me he is going to be making needle selectors, yarn bowls, and yarn guides. This is such wonderful news since a lot of these parts are hard to find.

In the archives of my blog you can see the carpet stitch used on a hat in June of 2011, two color carpet stitch in May of 2011, ice skate ornament and mini stocking ornament in September of 2015 and lace designs in August of 2013.

I went to my machine and made the carpet stitch dust mitt that I had made in May of 2011.
The result was that his Drop Stitch works perfectly. The first picture shows the needles going up and then they go down as you slide the Drop Stitch across the bed. The second picture, I opened the bed to show that all of the stitches dropped off nicely.

This is an accessory that a lot of people have not even tried on their machines. I don’t think a lot of passap owners realize the potential of this tool. When I first learned how to do the carpet stitch I used the needle selector tool to raise and lower the needles to drop the stitches but it took forever and the yarn caught on the latches of the needles.
BJ suggested on my blog, using the carpet stitch pattern for a bathrobe. This tool can be used when you do the broken toe cast on where you knit the first row and then drop the front bed stitches after placing the cast on comb. It can be used to put a design in a cuff on a sweater . The great thing is that it can remain sitting in the rail without being in the way. It does not have to be stored away and pulled out whenever you want to use it.
The carpet stitch jacket by Billie Hall is still on my bucket list but now thinking of a bathrobe. 🙂

The drop stitch accessory can be found at the link below. I LOVE the colors!

https://www.etsy.com/listing/528048976/drop-stitch-carriage-for-passap-knitting?ref=shop_home_active_1

 

Passap 6000 Cat Blankets


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I am having fun making these little blankets using single bed Technique 179 on the double bed. To use this technique, remember you always have to reverse the colors. You will use both beds and no back bed pushers. Front lock LX and back lock N. This blanket is the same size as the owl afghan ,29 by 29 inches. I made one for my sister’s cat Autumn and my friends granddaughter’s cat Luna. I made one plain to sell in my Etsy store. However,  I did not put the little cats on the heart and the letter ” I “. I thought maybe there are too many cats

I used Joan Swanson cat designs. I designed in DAK. I used the text in DAK to make large letters so the little cats could sit on them. I then took the little cats out of the larger files and placed them on the letters. I probably spent a whole day on this design because I came up with a design and would be ready to knit and then did not like it. I did not want a border so when finishing this, the last rows are plain. There is not an issue with the beginning and ending border matching in size this way.

I will be happy to share the I love cats afghan with you( I have the little cats on the heart and letter “I” but you can remove them if you don’t like them) but it can only be used for your use. If you would like the file with your cat’s name on it, I will be willing to do it but I would need some time depending on how many people want one. I will have the directions also. It takes about 5.5ounces of the main color and 2.5 ounces of the second color.

I made this blanket because my sister’s cat has a favorite chair .It will keep the hair off of the pillow and  when company comes, she can remove it and no cat hair to cling to her company’s clothing !  It could also be used as a little lap blanket…..put it on your lap and the cat sits on top of it keeping the hair off of you. lol

 

Passap E6000 Owl Baby Afghan


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I promised my sister I would knit her a baby afghan for a shower she was going to before I broke my arm. The baby’s room is being done in owls and the colors of purple and pink. She called and wondered if I was still going to be able to do it since she needs it ASAP. No pressure there. lol  No sympathy either with a broken arm. Lol, just kidding sis! I already made her feel bad telling her that her husband and son are landscapers and they did not come and cut my lawn for me . That wasn’t fair since they live an hour away.

I wanted to try something awhile back so I thought I would try it on this afghan.I read an article that said you can take any Japanese design and knit it on the passap without distortion if you use the  single bed technique  179 but knit it double bed. You have to do two things to do this. You have to have an even number of rows and you always have to reverse the main and motif colors. I googled owls on the internet and found a punch card with this design. I entered it into win/crea since it was only 21 stitches wide and 35 rows and made up the design. I used 168 stitches and the pattern is 198 rows. The afghan came out 29 inches by 29 inches. I could have added another row of owls but did not want a real large afghan. The colors are purple and pink even though the pink looks white. The owl does look better in the purple rather than the pink. The pink ones look like they have ghost eyes. haha

I was able to knit with one arm. The only hard part was putting the cast on comb in. I took my time and no mistakes…..always a good day when that happens!

I have the directions on how I knitted this afghan(but not the file) in detail right down to  how to program the console for color reverse. Email me if you would like a copy.

 

Passap Creative Slip and Tuck


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I have not been able to do much since I was playing super woman and broke my left arm. Don’t feel bad for me, I just need to be reminded I am not in my twenties! Lol That is why I have not posted……or done much of anything!

However, I have a follower that tries every thing I post.  🙂   She sent me a picture of a summer top she is working on using the slip and tuck technique in my last post. She also sent me a picture of a summer top she made using the Irene Krieger Diamond technique. She gave me permission to share them with you. I noticed the puckers between the two techniques in the slip and tuck but I think it adds texture.

Great work Aaltje and thank you for sharing!

Passap Creative Slip and Tuck


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My friend Jacqui and I were discussing the Passap Knitting Machine and what it can do. She told me that there was an article in KnitWords Magazine #1, 1997 Summer on knitting two motifs side by side and one motif was slip stitch and one motif was tuck. The article is written by Katherine Geiger and she sounds just like me. She was so excited figuring this out and seeing what this Passap 6000 can do!
I just had to try this. In the article Katherine has a design that she made . I put it into win/crea and downloaded it. This is sample 1. The diamonds are tuck and the zig zag is slip.
How unique is that? The technique used is 129 (or 179)and when it says to change to KX, ignore the console and put UX setting on front lock.
The OX and UX settings slip and tuck in different directions. So when she made her pattern she starts the pattern that she wants to slip on the odd numbered lines and tuck motifs on even numbered lines with a blank row in-between each row of each of the designs. What happens is that when one motif tucks, the slip motif is inactive. When the slip motif is active the tuck motif is inactive. It was fun to watch while knitting. You use one color and when you knit row one you will only see needles selected for motif one. After knitting row 1, the needles selected are motif 2. Then when you knit the next two rows, you will see motif 1 and then motif two. The pushers must be in work under all the front bed needles.
Katherine then suggests using a technique in the manual from 1000 to 1034. Pick your pattern and use technique 149. Ignore the console and use UX. Knitting with these settings gives you a fabric that she calls Loopy Lace. The stitch formation is such that it is being slipped first and then tucked giving a more pronounced look to the pattern. I used the same technique but used two different patterns to see how they each looked.
In the fourth sample she suggests using OX and the fabric looks so similar to fine lace knitted on the Japanese machines. The great thing is you don’t have to use a lace carriage, you just put in black strippers and knit away!
In sample 2, I picked pattern 1032 and technique 149 and UX
In sample 3 I picked pattern 1028 and technique 149 and UX.
In sample 4 I used pattern 1028 and technique 149 and OX
These samples are all knitted single bed.
I hope you try it. I think the one fabric sort of looks like garter stitch that the Brother G carriage knits. If you want more detailed information on how to do this, just email me.

Passap Machine, Changing from Rib to Full Double Bed-Eliminating the “holes”


DSCF4229In a book I have called The Knitting Machine Textbook:Using the Passap E6000 by Marika Simon I came across an article and decided to read it.  Imagine that.  I have seen a lot of people asking how to eliminate the holes after knitting rib and going into full needle rib. Well, in this book there are three ways to do it and you use the console. What? Now you have my attention.

Sample one is knitted and it comes out with holes between the ribbing and the main garment. It can be decorative but undesirable in other instances. In the book, sample 2 says “Reducing the size of the holes. Sample 3 says Further reducing the holes and Sample 4 says Eliminating the holes completely.
In the book the rib is knitted with two strands of yarn and when you transfer to full needle , she says to only use one strand of yarn. Well, I always knit with two strands so my first four samples are knitted with 2 strands throughout. When I knitted sample 2,3 & 4 there were no holes at all!
So I went back and knitted the first and second samples changing to one strand after the rib and now I see why they had the headings that they did. When changing to one strand the holes still show up in sample 2. See the picture with 2 samples. I did not do sample 3 and 4 because I know which one I will use. It will be #4 .
Sample one:The console is programmed with the long stitch technique 117. A 1X1 rib is knitted first. Then the needles are all brought into work . You program the console answering all the questions and setting the correct numbers of needles and then knit. Large holes appear.
Sample two : Knit the 1X1 rib, change to one strand of yarn, bring all needles into work and knit 4 rows of CX/CX . Then program the console for technique 117 and start knitting.
Sample 3: Knit the rib but stop the lock on the left side and change the tension to 5 and knit one row. Put all of the needles into work and take the heel of the loop on the purl stitches on the front bed and put onto the empty needles on the back bed. Set tension back to 3 , Program the console for 117 and knit.
Sample 4: Knit the rib and stop on the left side to raise the tension 2 numbers. Take the heel of the purl stitches on front bed and put on the back bed and vice versa. Knit one row at tension 4 and one row at tension 3(original tension) Program the console for 117 and knit.This is the way I have always done it except I have never knitted the long stitch .This has changed my mind. I really like the weight of the fabric using one strand of 2/24 for the garment using technique 117.
If you would like more detailed instructions on trying these, please email me. Otherwise, if you don’t want any holes going from rib to full needle rib, use the last technique and you don’t even have to use technique 117. I used to do this on the Brother and never knitted the two rows after all the transfers and it came out very nice.

 

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Passap Lapghan using 3 color techniques


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Ha, ha, fooled you again. Here is my knitted strip of techniques for a three color design. It is shorter and took 918rows of knitting. I used 60 stitches and I knit 102 rows of each. I knitted techniques 195 to 200. Then the last three are 204,205 and 206.

I also had to learn how to download a 3 color pattern that is in the console. I realized I had never done this. These are the ones with the asterisks next to them in the pattern book.   I used pattern 1285 and added 1286. I wrote this down programming the console to downloading to locks. If you would like a copy, please email me. If you would also like the information to attach to your strips of knitting, if you do one, email me for that as well.

The strangest of the techniques are 204,205 and 206.(bottom 3) In the picture you can see a blister type effect that is more pronounced in the last one. The book calls this a pin tuck effect. These three techniques require back lock changes. In #204 you knit 2 rows of color one on LX/N, 2 rows of color 2 on LX/N, and you knit 4 rows of color three on LX/BX. In other words, you are knitting 8 rows for one row of knitting. On #205 you will do the same with colors one and two and then you will knit 6 rows of color 3 on LX/BX. In this one you are knitting 10 rows for each row. On #206 you will do the same with colors one and two and then knit 8 rows of color 3 on LX/BX. This knits 12 rows for one row of knitting. All three of these techniques use black strippers. Now I don’t know if I did the last three right so I am going to go back and try something different to see if they look the same. On the back bed you only have four pushers in work , two on each end. It also might look strange to me because of the pattern I chose. I know that when I give up this machine, I still will not know everything it can do!!

Passap Afghan of Many Techniques


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Bet you thought you were going to see another large afghan. Well this strip of techniques was the length of an afghan . I knitted techniques 180 to 191 . I knitted 21 rows for each technique and that came to 84 knitted rows . I used 60 stitches, the same pattern, same tension, same amount of rows. I typed up the techniques, put in the settings and pusher information. I laminated the information and attached with a yarn that is strong like ravel cord so they won’t come off. I am doing this for a friend that I am helping with the E6000.  This shows her the backs and the sizes when she chooses an afghan. I made an afghan using the Fairisle Fantasy but she wanted it in a lap blanket so we looked at the strip and chose a different technique. It came out perfect for her but we also shortened the pattern as well.

I learned several things doing this. My arm is killing me. Hahahaha, just kidding. First, I love this machine. Lol  Second, it took me longer to do than an afghan since you have to reprogram every technique and set the pushers on the back bed in or out of the rail. You can see the widest one and it is technique 186 which is the fantasy fairisle. What surprises me is that you don’t see , or I should say, I don’t see many afghans made using the last four techniques 188-191. You have to change the back lock every two rows on a couple of them but it is not confusing. The console tells you when to change. Techniques 188 to 191 are closer in width to the fantasy fairisle . Also notice that the technique 181 has a solid back. I also knitted technique 185 for the first time which is the long stitch or summer fairisle and I like it. It is amazing how one pattern can look so different in every one of the techniques. This also gives you an idea of distortion using different techniques.

Also, I have two little cutters on my other knitting machine carriages for cutting the yarn . They are great and I don’t have to pick up a pair of scissors. I bought these years ago for a dollar and have not found them since. A couple of weeks ago I went to a sewing expo in Cleveland and I found this( I should say my friend found it) . It was $7.95 and I have it mounted on top of my passap lock. It is not as nice as my cheapie but it sure does the trick for cutting my yarn. 🙂 It has a self stick backing.

Passap Raglan Decreases-Single bed


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I came across an article called Nice’ N’ Easy  by George LeWarre in the Duet International Book Number 8 Autumn/Fall 1991. I compared them to the decreases I had done previously in my blog and they are different. Their may be one that is the same. If you print out the page that is the picture above, you will have the directions and a picture of what they look like. On the third one down, there is a one, two and three stitch decrease. You would pick one of the three, not do them all in a row like my sample. I have about four more to add and will notify you later.

I would like to encourage you to try these and make a sample of your own and label them for future reference. You might want to start your own book of samples.

That is what  I am doing now when I don’t feel like knitting. I am using  large notebooks with pictures and directions and putting in all the samples I have knitted .They will be going with my passap when I sell her so that the next person does not have to spend all of their time on the internet looking for directions on a particular technique.  So far I have about 5 notebooks but I am going to organize them better.

The picture above is in my drop box with the other raglan decreases.

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/lhfvnw0ncnhgs0t/AADJ_PxwCNWUnUe41dJ7IkA2a?dl=0

Passap vs Brother Placemat by Tricia Shafer


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I made this  Tricia Shafer plated place mat(top picture)  on the Brother years ago and I liked it. I decided to make it again. When I finished, I decided to try to duplicate it on the Passap. And that is when I found out I can’t. (Notice , I said “I can’t” , maybe someone else can) I also found out from a friend in Arizona that there is a plating attachment for the passap, though rare to find.

I made the placemat on the Brother with two strands of Estillo for both yarns . On the botton one made on the passap I used one strand of Diamonte. I tried two strands of Estillo to start and I think I had problems because I did not have the right tensions. Looking back now, I bet it would be the same size as the first one if I did use the 2 strands of estillo.

Here are the comparisons . The plated mat is heavier and had a great shape when it came off the machine.  The passap was made just using blue diamonte using the same amount of stitches . The passap mat is smaller by about one and a half inches but it still is a nice size. The passap mat is not as nice shaped and is much lighter. The pattern came out nice on both mats done on different machines. So, I have to give the vote to Brother just because I don’t have the plating attachment for the Passap. 😦

To make this on the passap, I cast on N/N 1/1  and knitted the two CX 2../2.. rows and the N/N 5/5 row and then I transferred stitches from the front bed to the back bed.

Below is the  set up on the front bed.(of course you will have more needles than the diagram) The ends have 2 needles in work . The dots are the needles out of work.The back bed has all of the needles in work and the racking handle is down while knitting. You will put it up when transferring the stitches so the needles line up at the beginning transfers.

I cast on 63-63 on front bed and one less on back bed so the end needles are on the front bed. After transferring the front bed stitches to the back bed,(if you have one left over double up the stitches so that both ends look like the diagram below) put those needles out of work and put pushers in work under the remaining needles in work. Set locks to LX/N. I set the back bed tension to 5 and the front bed tension to 3. On the Brother the tensions were 7 on the main bed and 3 on the ribber. The sequence is six rows of knitting at LX/N and then 2 rows of LX/GX so that only the front bed needles knit.ALSO:in her pattern , Tricia  only does two rows of knitting instead of six between the  rows , two times,and you can see that in the pattern. There are three lines close together dividing the mat in 3. There are 158 rows of knitting . To finish transfer the front bed stitches to the back bed and bind off the stitches.

11.1.111.1.1.1.1.1.111.1.1.1.1.1.111.1.11

 

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