Archive for Passap project

Passap ” I Love Dogs” Afghan


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I made a baby afghan for a neighbor’s grandson. She told me he loves it and has worn it out. He is now 2. I told her I would make him another one and asked what he liked. She said he loves dogs. I spent about 4 to 5 hours playing around with ideas and came up with this one. Some of my blog followers have also asked if I had a design  for an afghan for dogs since I made one for cats. So I am killing two birds here with one stone. 🙂

I wanted to use blue but did not have royal blue 2/24. That was my first mistake. I found some Sky  yarn that I have tons of. It is a 4/15 yarn and it knitted like a cotton on the passap. I don’t even know how I was able to cast on with 2.. for the CX rows. My main tension was 6../6.. and I could have gone higher. I also used yarn spray and that helped . I was okay with higher tension since I wanted the afghan larger than 30 by 30. (If you use 2/24 yarn it will come out like the cat afghan) To make matters worse I thought I was going to run out of yarn and that was stressful when I got to row 270. I made it though so that was good. I knitted it in about an hour……….. and then  it took forever to finish it. I had to do the CX rows of the cast off 4 times using different tensions. When I tried to use tension 2 ..it would not knit off the stitches. Tried tension 3, the same thing. Had to go to 4. When I did the last N/N row at 7/7 I lost a lot of front bed stitches. Picked them all up and decided to cast off on the machine. I washed it in the machine and the size got smaller but it is still good. I am used to 2/24 yarn but with this yarn I will probably have to  lightly steam the edges and top and bottom to get it to lay flat.  I don’t know how it is going to wear but I will ask her to let me know.

I used a paw design from free punchcard patterns on the  internet along with some of the small dogs and the word Woof. The dachshund I found in Wendy Phillips Just Dogs  book. I found the bone in Marc’s Motifs by Marc Pohlman’s The Kennel Club. I used the dachshund because the little boys grandmother has a dachshund .

I am sharing this pattern with you. Please use it for yourself or to give as gifts. Please do not sell this pattern as your own or the afghan itself on the internet.  I have a bmp file for win/crea users and a png file for DAK users. Remember, for this afghan you are using both beds but using a single bed technique. You have to reverse the colors. I have explained this in instructions to help you when you download.

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/8tm8eavg03aagx1/AAAWBoHBG-gR0WOzpjsSfJiTa?dl=0

Passap Needle Selectors and a Passap Polka Dot Rib


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Oh, my gosh. Tyler from Herman HillsFarms in Ohio  sent me some needle selectors, yarn bowls and some yarn guides to try. Thank you , thank you! AND THANK YOU!!!

He sent a 1 X 1, a 2 X 1 and a 2 X 2 needle selector , two yarn bowls and two yarn guides . I love all of them. The yarn guides have two open areas so you can lead up 2 yarns . It certainly keeps things from getting tangled.
I wanted to try the yarn guides, bowls and the selectors so I decided to see if I could figure out how to do the polka dot rib on the passap. I have the directions for doing it on the Brother.Can’t find them at the moment though. lol

I started with the purple 1 X 1 needle selector for a 1 by 1 rib. This polka dot rib is really simple to do and I found two ways of doing it. The way I am describing is the easiest and the fastest.

Set up for 1 by 1 rib with needle selector. Bring 60 needles forward on bb. Push every other needle out of work. Set racking handle to up position. Select needles in between the back bed needles on the front bed and bring into work. Do cast on of your choice. I used the broken toe cast on. After cast on set the locks to N/N and knit two rows of main color.
Next I took the blue 2 X 2 needle selector and brought up pushers under every other needle on the front bed that is in working position.  Set the front lock to LX and the back lock to N.  Knit 2 rows of contrast color. Set locks to N/N and knit 4 rows of main color.  Repeat these six rows for pattern changing the locks between the main color knitted rows and the contrast rows.

I am also thrilled to learn that Tyler is not only making passap yarn bowls but he is working on  covers with holes in them for the yarn to come through and to keep the ball from popping out of the bowl. The yarn bowls are available already and are very high quality. We all know how the little balls of yarn flop out of the bowls onto the floor when the ball gets smaller. I have tried several ways of preventing this and the yarn ball still flops around and out of the bowl.  Can’t wait to try those too. I will let you know when the covers are available.

Here is the link to the passap items  available from Herman Hills Farm.

https://www.etsy.com/shop/HermanHillsFarm?ref=l2-shopheader-name&section_id=21934827

 

 

Passap 6000 Cat Blankets


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I am having fun making these little blankets using single bed Technique 179 on the double bed. To use this technique, remember you always have to reverse the colors. You will use both beds and no back bed pushers. Front lock LX and back lock N. This blanket is the same size as the owl afghan ,29 by 29 inches. I made one for my sister’s cat Autumn and my friends granddaughter’s cat Luna. I made one plain to sell in my Etsy store. However,  I did not put the little cats on the heart and the letter ” I “. I thought maybe there are too many cats

I used Joan Swanson cat designs. I designed in DAK. I used the text in DAK to make large letters so the little cats could sit on them. I then took the little cats out of the larger files and placed them on the letters. I probably spent a whole day on this design because I came up with a design and would be ready to knit and then did not like it. I did not want a border so when finishing this, the last rows are plain. There is not an issue with the beginning and ending border matching in size this way.

I will be happy to share the I love cats afghan with you( I have the little cats on the heart and letter “I” but you can remove them if you don’t like them) but it can only be used for your use. If you would like the file with your cat’s name on it, I will be willing to do it but I would need some time depending on how many people want one. I will have the directions also. It takes about 5.5ounces of the main color and 2.5 ounces of the second color.

I made this blanket because my sister’s cat has a favorite chair .It will keep the hair off of the pillow and  when company comes, she can remove it and no cat hair to cling to her company’s clothing !  It could also be used as a little lap blanket…..put it on your lap and the cat sits on top of it keeping the hair off of you. lol

 

Passap Knitted Owl Puffs by Jenna Krupar


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I saw the free pattern for  hand knitted owl puffs by Jenna Krupar awhile back and I just came across it in my downloads. I decided to convert it to machine knitting and add a little stuffed owl to the baby  blanket I just made . The hand written instructions start at the bottom and work up. Then the top stitches are kitchener stitched after lightly stuffing it. On the knitting machine it is easier and faster to decrease so I started at the top. I did a row of N/N for cast on and knit circular for 15 rows. I knitted one row of ravel for removing the waste yarn easily. Then I knitted the face and the body the same amount of rows as the pattern and then decreased on designated rows. I decreased evenly and moved the stitches in. It took awhile doing it that way. When I finished I had a teeny weeny owl! lol He is 2 inches by 2 inches. Well, he can be a package tie.

So I went back to the machine and doubled the stitches and rows. I decreased 12 stitches instead of 6 like I did on the small one. I sewed on the eyes since the top of the eye was purple and you can’t see the thread behind it. I think they are cute. If you would like the instructions for the larger one, just email me. I was able to photograph  the right color pink but not the purple this time!

Passap Creative Slip and Tuck


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I have not been able to do much since I was playing super woman and broke my left arm. Don’t feel bad for me, I just need to be reminded I am not in my twenties! Lol That is why I have not posted……or done much of anything!

However, I have a follower that tries every thing I post.  🙂   She sent me a picture of a summer top she is working on using the slip and tuck technique in my last post. She also sent me a picture of a summer top she made using the Irene Krieger Diamond technique. She gave me permission to share them with you. I noticed the puckers between the two techniques in the slip and tuck but I think it adds texture.

Great work Aaltje and thank you for sharing!

Passap Creative Slip and Tuck


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My friend Jacqui and I were discussing the Passap Knitting Machine and what it can do. She told me that there was an article in KnitWords Magazine #1, 1997 Summer on knitting two motifs side by side and one motif was slip stitch and one motif was tuck. The article is written by Katherine Geiger and she sounds just like me. She was so excited figuring this out and seeing what this Passap 6000 can do!
I just had to try this. In the article Katherine has a design that she made . I put it into win/crea and downloaded it. This is sample 1. The diamonds are tuck and the zig zag is slip.
How unique is that? The technique used is 129 (or 179)and when it says to change to KX, ignore the console and put UX setting on front lock.
The OX and UX settings slip and tuck in different directions. So when she made her pattern she starts the pattern that she wants to slip on the odd numbered lines and tuck motifs on even numbered lines with a blank row in-between each row of each of the designs. What happens is that when one motif tucks, the slip motif is inactive. When the slip motif is active the tuck motif is inactive. It was fun to watch while knitting. You use one color and when you knit row one you will only see needles selected for motif one. After knitting row 1, the needles selected are motif 2. Then when you knit the next two rows, you will see motif 1 and then motif two. The pushers must be in work under all the front bed needles.
Katherine then suggests using a technique in the manual from 1000 to 1034. Pick your pattern and use technique 149. Ignore the console and use UX. Knitting with these settings gives you a fabric that she calls Loopy Lace. The stitch formation is such that it is being slipped first and then tucked giving a more pronounced look to the pattern. I used the same technique but used two different patterns to see how they each looked.
In the fourth sample she suggests using OX and the fabric looks so similar to fine lace knitted on the Japanese machines. The great thing is you don’t have to use a lace carriage, you just put in black strippers and knit away!
In sample 2, I picked pattern 1032 and technique 149 and UX
In sample 3 I picked pattern 1028 and technique 149 and UX.
In sample 4 I used pattern 1028 and technique 149 and OX
These samples are all knitted single bed.
I hope you try it. I think the one fabric sort of looks like garter stitch that the Brother G carriage knits. If you want more detailed information on how to do this, just email me.

Passap Machine, Changing from Rib to Full Double Bed-Eliminating the â€śholes”


DSCF4229In a book I have called The Knitting Machine Textbook:Using the Passap E6000 by Marika Simon I came across an article and decided to read it.  Imagine that.  I have seen a lot of people asking how to eliminate the holes after knitting rib and going into full needle rib. Well, in this book there are three ways to do it and you use the console. What? Now you have my attention.

Sample one is knitted and it comes out with holes between the ribbing and the main garment. It can be decorative but undesirable in other instances. In the book, sample 2 says “Reducing the size of the holes. Sample 3 says Further reducing the holes and Sample 4 says Eliminating the holes completely.
In the book the rib is knitted with two strands of yarn and when you transfer to full needle , she says to only use one strand of yarn. Well, I always knit with two strands so my first four samples are knitted with 2 strands throughout. When I knitted sample 2,3 & 4 there were no holes at all!
So I went back and knitted the first and second samples changing to one strand after the rib and now I see why they had the headings that they did. When changing to one strand the holes still show up in sample 2. See the picture with 2 samples. I did not do sample 3 and 4 because I know which one I will use. It will be #4 .
Sample one:The console is programmed with the long stitch technique 117. A 1X1 rib is knitted first. Then the needles are all brought into work . You program the console answering all the questions and setting the correct numbers of needles and then knit. Large holes appear.
Sample two : Knit the 1X1 rib, change to one strand of yarn, bring all needles into work and knit 4 rows of CX/CX . Then program the console for technique 117 and start knitting.
Sample 3: Knit the rib but stop the lock on the left side and change the tension to 5 and knit one row. Put all of the needles into work and take the heel of the loop on the purl stitches on the front bed and put onto the empty needles on the back bed. Set tension back to 3 , Program the console for 117 and knit.
Sample 4: Knit the rib and stop on the left side to raise the tension 2 numbers. Take the heel of the purl stitches on front bed and put on the back bed and vice versa. Knit one row at tension 4 and one row at tension 3(original tension) Program the console for 117 and knit.This is the way I have always done it except I have never knitted the long stitch .This has changed my mind. I really like the weight of the fabric using one strand of 2/24 for the garment using technique 117.
If you would like more detailed instructions on trying these, please email me. Otherwise, if you don’t want any holes going from rib to full needle rib, use the last technique and you don’t even have to use technique 117. I used to do this on the Brother and never knitted the two rows after all the transfers and it came out very nice.

 

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Passap Vertical Band for a Sweater or Jacket


I am still learning new things on my passap and I have had it for quite awhile. I just tried something I saw in a book that I have. It is knitting a vertical band while knitting the sweater so you don’t have to go back and attach a band. Well, that’s not new you say. I didn’t think so either until I read the directions. When I finished the dark blue one I liked the look. I also noticed it did not curl in . I gently steamed it and it hangs nicely. I think it would be really nice on a formal jacket knitted plain. I would not do as deep a hem or I wouldn’t do a hem at all and just start with the side band . This is simple to do and I hope you try it.
The hem tension was 4 (2 strands of 2/24)Cast on any number of stitches using the N/N row (2..), 2 rows CX/CX (3)and one N/N(4) row. Knit the number of rows you want for a hem. Then transfer all of the stitches on the front bed to the back bed EXCEPT the last five on the right.
Set the front lock to CX and tension 6 and the back lock to N at tension 5. Put in black strippers. Gently weight the five end stitches. With the front lock setting on CX it stretches the stitch a little so it is noticeable and you only knit one row on that front bed for every two rows of knitting. Incidentally, you don’t need front or back bed pushers.I went back and did another sample leaving only 2 stitches on the end instead of 5 and liked it even better. Even the purl side looks good and the edge stands out even more. Notice in the pictures how the border does not show until you transfer the stitches and set the front lock to CX.

I wanted to see how this would look as a design so I just went back and knitted the same thing using 60 stitches .I set up 2 stitches working on the front bed with four empty needles between them. It reminds me of a tuck stitch but if a mistake is made this is so simple to correct. You don’t have to use the console and ripping back would be fast. Notice on one edge I have the 2 stitch border and for the hem I knitted four rows before transferring the stitches to the back bed.

Passap Lapghan using 3 color techniques


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Ha, ha, fooled you again. Here is my knitted strip of techniques for a three color design. It is shorter and took 918rows of knitting. I used 60 stitches and I knit 102 rows of each. I knitted techniques 195 to 200. Then the last three are 204,205 and 206.

I also had to learn how to download a 3 color pattern that is in the console. I realized I had never done this. These are the ones with the asterisks next to them in the pattern book.   I used pattern 1285 and added 1286. I wrote this down programming the console to downloading to locks. If you would like a copy, please email me. If you would also like the information to attach to your strips of knitting, if you do one, email me for that as well.

The strangest of the techniques are 204,205 and 206.(bottom 3) In the picture you can see a blister type effect that is more pronounced in the last one. The book calls this a pin tuck effect. These three techniques require back lock changes. In #204 you knit 2 rows of color one on LX/N, 2 rows of color 2 on LX/N, and you knit 4 rows of color three on LX/BX. In other words, you are knitting 8 rows for one row of knitting. On #205 you will do the same with colors one and two and then you will knit 6 rows of color 3 on LX/BX. In this one you are knitting 10 rows for each row. On #206 you will do the same with colors one and two and then knit 8 rows of color 3 on LX/BX. This knits 12 rows for one row of knitting. All three of these techniques use black strippers. Now I don’t know if I did the last three right so I am going to go back and try something different to see if they look the same. On the back bed you only have four pushers in work , two on each end. It also might look strange to me because of the pattern I chose. I know that when I give up this machine, I still will not know everything it can do!!

Passap Raglan Decreases-Single bed


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I came across an article called Nice’ N’ Easy  by George LeWarre in the Duet International Book Number 8 Autumn/Fall 1991. I compared them to the decreases I had done previously in my blog and they are different. Their may be one that is the same. If you print out the page that is the picture above, you will have the directions and a picture of what they look like. On the third one down, there is a one, two and three stitch decrease. You would pick one of the three, not do them all in a row like my sample. I have about four more to add and will notify you later.

I would like to encourage you to try these and make a sample of your own and label them for future reference. You might want to start your own book of samples.

That is what  I am doing now when I don’t feel like knitting. I am using  large notebooks with pictures and directions and putting in all the samples I have knitted .They will be going with my passap when I sell her so that the next person does not have to spend all of their time on the internet looking for directions on a particular technique.  So far I have about 5 notebooks but I am going to organize them better.

The picture above is in my drop box with the other raglan decreases.

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/lhfvnw0ncnhgs0t/AADJ_PxwCNWUnUe41dJ7IkA2a?dl=0

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