Archive for Passap project

Passap E 6000 Baby Bear Blanket


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I am so proud of myself. I decided to knit the afghan that I first wanted to knit . I found some extra time last night. The pattern is from Knitten Buds. I can no longer find them on the internet.  I wonder if anyone has any information on them.

I did not want an afghan this large but I am happy with how it came out. I did not have all the information on the baby so I just put what I had in the heart. I am sure the woman will love it. The pattern was 179 stitches and 250 rows. I shortened the pattern to 216 rows . I used technique 187. I used two strands of 2/24 and tension 5 on both beds. The color is mauve and white. The finished size is 35 by 50 inches. I was glad I have DAK to add the name inside of the heart.

I really need to give my passap an affectionate name since she knitted so beautifully for me after ignoring her for so long. She holds no grudges.

Now I have to knit some slipper socks on my Brother  for a woman who was in the hospital. Then back to sewing. 🙂

Okay, a friend found this link but I am having trouble getting all the pattern pictures. Maybe it is my computer.

 

http://web.archive.org/web/20090515042505/http://knittenbuds.com:80/

Passap Baby Blankets


 

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Okay, I lied. My next post was not attaching the neckband without the sandwich. This is my excuse and I am sticking to it. 🙂

I have to thank Gillian for getting me back into my knitting room. I have been absorbed with quilting and having work done in my house and ignoring my beloved passap. Gillian sent me a picture of the baby blanket she made from my posting on February 5, 2014. It is a baby blanket by Jean Curry. I had to make a baby blanket for a gift and when I saw her pictures of her blankets I decided this would be the quickest to knit and I think it is very pretty. It is a tuck stitch and you don’t use the back bed pushers

So…….I learned one very important thing about the passap knitting machine . I learned that if I had stayed away longer, I would be following my own blog to learn all over again! hahahahahaha

I had to cast on 3 times.  I used the number 3 cast on and I don’t usually use that. I got out my book and casted on and I wanted a tighter tension. I removed the work and thought I remembered the racking sequence for the cast on and ended up doing it wrong. So then I finally cast on the third time. Now it is time to download. Went through the sequence and it beeped and I went through setting up and then it dawned on me that it did not say wait in the memo window of the console. I had disconnected my laptop awhile ago and thought maybe it was the wrong port . Nope. I repeated and nothing again. Then I started to laugh. My switch for going between download and knitting was not in the download position. LOL  But, the velcro piece that holds  it on top of the console had come loose and the box was hidden behind the console. Oh brother, now I have been in my knitting room for a half hour and I have not even knitted the 568 rows. I started it at 10 p.m. and walked out of my knitting room at 11 p.m with the cast off row on waste yarn. I was surprised since it felt like I was in there for hours.

I knitted the white one with Tamm star at tension 4 and I knitted the pink one at tension 5 and two strands of 2/24. You can tell that the white one came out smaller and shorter using a smaller tension.

By the way, for the new people following my blog, here is a link to my drop box to see what I have posted from the beginning of my blog up to  February of 2016 .

 

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/fdj4frh7820yw6k/AAAlxycpQONOxFDcNpGii55qa?dl=0

Passap Cut and Sew Neckline


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Tina, this posting is for you. 🙂
Tina asked me if I all of my work was cut and sew(necklines)
I told her that I did knit one sweater and divided the work at the neck and finished each side. Would I do it again? Absolutely not. I am a definite believer in cut and sew for passap double bed work.
I used the side of a scarf that I started and did not like so you will see the stitches going sideways. lol Ladies, get your tension swatches out and lets try this technique.

Most of my sweaters I made were finished with the following technique that I will share with you. I just know it as the sandwich neckline. I believe it might also be called the commercial neckline. I have had this information for over 30 years so it has been around.
I read somewhere that a neckline will make or break a sweater and I believe that to be true. You can also add button and buttonhole bands and cuffs using this sandwich technique. I did this on a blue diamonte sweater that was posted on my blog.

The first step is to just knit the front of your sweater straight up from the armholes. Then take the shoulders off on separate pieces of waste yarn. Then take the middle neck stitches off on waste yarn. You will join one shoulder and then figure the number of stitches for your ribbing.

You can make neck templates from cardboard by using your favorite sweaters to see how much of a drop you like. I don’t like ribbing that chokes me so my templates are around 3 inches with a two inch tall ribbing. I also like the look of a 2 by 2 rib and you get more stretch so it is not too tight going over your head.
My sample is a 1 by 1. The ribbing is double so if you want a one inch ribbing and your gauge is 12 rows to one inch, you would knit 24 rows. My sample is 22 rows.

I always do tension swatches and launder the fabric and wait a day before knitting.
That way I know how many shoulder and neck stitches I will have to take off separately on waste yarn.
When I knit the back of my sweater I do a one inch drop. I do the same as for the front neckline but just make a straight line one inch from edge and angle the line up to the shoulders. When you see how the front is done this will make sense to you.

I have pictures showing you how I do this along with some more instructions in the drop box link below.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/mm6dk3z2ac0yqtm/Finishing%20a%20neckline%20using%20the%20back%20stitch%20by%20hand.pdf?dl=0

 

 

My next posting will be the cut and sew without the sandwich. I have added a pdf file with both of these instructions if you want to try them . I also have a sheet that explains the procedure in detail. If you have any problems or questions, feel free to email me. Hope you try it!
Happy Knitting!

Passap E600 Christmas Knitted Key Fob


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Measures 14 inches total length

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Sorry I have not been knitting. I went off into a sewing tangent. lol  I made a quilted Christmas tree skirt so that I won’t be rushing to do it in the last few weeks before Christmas .  I finished a large autumn table quilt also. My latest project was mug rugs and key fobs. When I made the key fob I  thought, okay, this could be knitted also. This took about 15 minutes to make. The snowflake is the first one I did. I have a picture of the snowflake you would enter into your knitting program for downloading. Then I went and looked in the pattern book and there are many designs to choose from. More on that later.

First I found a small snowflake design . I knew I could not have many stitches to make a one inch width. I looked at my knitted strip of all the techniques that I have and technique 184(long stitch) looked the best for less distortion. Both end needles will be on the front bed.  I cast on  9 stitches (fb) and 8 stitches (bb) double bed with 2 strands of 2/24 at tension 1../1.. I hung a small comb and two weights….yes, two green weights! I used 2../2.. for CX rows. Then tension 3 for last N/N row and for the main tension. I knit 8 rows of solid red before downloading and knitting the pattern .  I knitted on needles 60 R and 68 R so that my work was close to the color changer. I knitted 392 rows . (total of 14 inches)I turned off console and knitted 8 rows of red to finish. I took off on waste yarn and kitchener stitched the top so I would not have a lot of bulk to go inside of the metal clamp. I also had my mast tension on 5.5 for number one and 6.5 for number 2. Since all machines are different, if the eyelet pops out of the holder while working, your mast is too tight. lol Then I just put the two ends into the metal clamp and closed .

If you don’t want to do the snowflake design, just look in your stitch book for small designs that are the width of the band(9 stitches) For example, pattern 1126 is the design in the top picture of the key fob. It was 7 stitches wide and 7 rows. I entered the design in win/crea and added two columns, one on each side.  If you want to do pattern 1304, you only have to add one blank column since there is one blank column in the pattern. You can even go to 10 stitches wide and be safe it will fit in the metal closure.

Also, if you don’t want to buy the metal one , you can start this on waste yarn and end on waste yarn. Before joining , put in a key ring circle. Then graft your stitches and sew a line just below the ring through both thicknesses so that the circle is closed. Okay, now back to sewing. hahaha

Passap ” I Love Dogs” Afghan


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I made a baby afghan for a neighbor’s grandson. She told me he loves it and has worn it out. He is now 2. I told her I would make him another one and asked what he liked. She said he loves dogs. I spent about 4 to 5 hours playing around with ideas and came up with this one. Some of my blog followers have also asked if I had a design  for an afghan for dogs since I made one for cats. So I am killing two birds here with one stone. 🙂

I wanted to use blue but did not have royal blue 2/24. That was my first mistake. I found some Sky  yarn that I have tons of. It is a 4/15 yarn and it knitted like a cotton on the passap. I don’t even know how I was able to cast on with 2.. for the CX rows. My main tension was 6../6.. and I could have gone higher. I also used yarn spray and that helped . I was okay with higher tension since I wanted the afghan larger than 30 by 30. (If you use 2/24 yarn it will come out like the cat afghan) To make matters worse I thought I was going to run out of yarn and that was stressful when I got to row 270. I made it though so that was good. I knitted it in about an hour……….. and then  it took forever to finish it. I had to do the CX rows of the cast off 4 times using different tensions. When I tried to use tension 2 ..it would not knit off the stitches. Tried tension 3, the same thing. Had to go to 4. When I did the last N/N row at 7/7 I lost a lot of front bed stitches. Picked them all up and decided to cast off on the machine. I washed it in the machine and the size got smaller but it is still good. I am used to 2/24 yarn but with this yarn I will probably have to  lightly steam the edges and top and bottom to get it to lay flat.  I don’t know how it is going to wear but I will ask her to let me know.

I used a paw design from free punchcard patterns on the  internet along with some of the small dogs and the word Woof. The dachshund I found in Wendy Phillips Just Dogs  book. I found the bone in Marc’s Motifs by Marc Pohlman’s The Kennel Club. I used the dachshund because the little boys grandmother has a dachshund .

I am sharing this pattern with you. Please use it for yourself or to give as gifts. Please do not sell this pattern as your own or the afghan itself on the internet.  I have a bmp file for win/crea users and a png file for DAK users. Remember, for this afghan you are using both beds but using a single bed technique. You have to reverse the colors. I have explained this in instructions to help you when you download.

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/8tm8eavg03aagx1/AAAWBoHBG-gR0WOzpjsSfJiTa?dl=0

Passap Needle Selectors and a Passap Polka Dot Rib


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Oh, my gosh. Tyler from Herman HillsFarms in Ohio  sent me some needle selectors, yarn bowls and some yarn guides to try. Thank you , thank you! AND THANK YOU!!!

He sent a 1 X 1, a 2 X 1 and a 2 X 2 needle selector , two yarn bowls and two yarn guides . I love all of them. The yarn guides have two open areas so you can lead up 2 yarns . It certainly keeps things from getting tangled.
I wanted to try the yarn guides, bowls and the selectors so I decided to see if I could figure out how to do the polka dot rib on the passap. I have the directions for doing it on the Brother.Can’t find them at the moment though. lol

I started with the purple 1 X 1 needle selector for a 1 by 1 rib. This polka dot rib is really simple to do and I found two ways of doing it. The way I am describing is the easiest and the fastest.

Set up for 1 by 1 rib with needle selector. Bring 60 needles forward on bb. Push every other needle out of work. Set racking handle to up position. Select needles in between the back bed needles on the front bed and bring into work. Do cast on of your choice. I used the broken toe cast on. After cast on set the locks to N/N and knit two rows of main color.
Next I took the blue 2 X 2 needle selector and brought up pushers under every other needle on the front bed that is in working position.  Set the front lock to LX and the back lock to N.  Knit 2 rows of contrast color. Set locks to N/N and knit 4 rows of main color.  Repeat these six rows for pattern changing the locks between the main color knitted rows and the contrast rows.

I am also thrilled to learn that Tyler is not only making passap yarn bowls but he is working on  covers with holes in them for the yarn to come through and to keep the ball from popping out of the bowl. The yarn bowls are available already and are very high quality. We all know how the little balls of yarn flop out of the bowls onto the floor when the ball gets smaller. I have tried several ways of preventing this and the yarn ball still flops around and out of the bowl.  Can’t wait to try those too. I will let you know when the covers are available.

Here is the link to the passap items  available from Herman Hills Farm.

https://www.etsy.com/shop/HermanHillsFarm?ref=l2-shopheader-name&section_id=21934827

 

 

Passap 6000 Cat Blankets


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I am having fun making these little blankets using single bed Technique 179 on the double bed. To use this technique, remember you always have to reverse the colors. You will use both beds and no back bed pushers. Front lock LX and back lock N. This blanket is the same size as the owl afghan ,29 by 29 inches. I made one for my sister’s cat Autumn and my friends granddaughter’s cat Luna. I made one plain to sell in my Etsy store. However,  I did not put the little cats on the heart and the letter ” I “. I thought maybe there are too many cats

I used Joan Swanson cat designs. I designed in DAK. I used the text in DAK to make large letters so the little cats could sit on them. I then took the little cats out of the larger files and placed them on the letters. I probably spent a whole day on this design because I came up with a design and would be ready to knit and then did not like it. I did not want a border so when finishing this, the last rows are plain. There is not an issue with the beginning and ending border matching in size this way.

I will be happy to share the I love cats afghan with you( I have the little cats on the heart and letter “I” but you can remove them if you don’t like them) but it can only be used for your use. If you would like the file with your cat’s name on it, I will be willing to do it but I would need some time depending on how many people want one. I will have the directions also. It takes about 5.5ounces of the main color and 2.5 ounces of the second color.

I made this blanket because my sister’s cat has a favorite chair .It will keep the hair off of the pillow and  when company comes, she can remove it and no cat hair to cling to her company’s clothing !  It could also be used as a little lap blanket…..put it on your lap and the cat sits on top of it keeping the hair off of you. lol

 

Passap Knitted Owl Puffs by Jenna Krupar


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I saw the free pattern for  hand knitted owl puffs by Jenna Krupar awhile back and I just came across it in my downloads. I decided to convert it to machine knitting and add a little stuffed owl to the baby  blanket I just made . The hand written instructions start at the bottom and work up. Then the top stitches are kitchener stitched after lightly stuffing it. On the knitting machine it is easier and faster to decrease so I started at the top. I did a row of N/N for cast on and knit circular for 15 rows. I knitted one row of ravel for removing the waste yarn easily. Then I knitted the face and the body the same amount of rows as the pattern and then decreased on designated rows. I decreased evenly and moved the stitches in. It took awhile doing it that way. When I finished I had a teeny weeny owl! lol He is 2 inches by 2 inches. Well, he can be a package tie.

So I went back to the machine and doubled the stitches and rows. I decreased 12 stitches instead of 6 like I did on the small one. I sewed on the eyes since the top of the eye was purple and you can’t see the thread behind it. I think they are cute. If you would like the instructions for the larger one, just email me. I was able to photograph  the right color pink but not the purple this time!

Passap Creative Slip and Tuck


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I have not been able to do much since I was playing super woman and broke my left arm. Don’t feel bad for me, I just need to be reminded I am not in my twenties! Lol That is why I have not posted……or done much of anything!

However, I have a follower that tries every thing I post.  🙂   She sent me a picture of a summer top she is working on using the slip and tuck technique in my last post. She also sent me a picture of a summer top she made using the Irene Krieger Diamond technique. She gave me permission to share them with you. I noticed the puckers between the two techniques in the slip and tuck but I think it adds texture.

Great work Aaltje and thank you for sharing!

Passap Creative Slip and Tuck


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My friend Jacqui and I were discussing the Passap Knitting Machine and what it can do. She told me that there was an article in KnitWords Magazine #1, 1997 Summer on knitting two motifs side by side and one motif was slip stitch and one motif was tuck. The article is written by Katherine Geiger and she sounds just like me. She was so excited figuring this out and seeing what this Passap 6000 can do!
I just had to try this. In the article Katherine has a design that she made . I put it into win/crea and downloaded it. This is sample 1. The diamonds are tuck and the zig zag is slip.
How unique is that? The technique used is 129 (or 179)and when it says to change to KX, ignore the console and put UX setting on front lock.
The OX and UX settings slip and tuck in different directions. So when she made her pattern she starts the pattern that she wants to slip on the odd numbered lines and tuck motifs on even numbered lines with a blank row in-between each row of each of the designs. What happens is that when one motif tucks, the slip motif is inactive. When the slip motif is active the tuck motif is inactive. It was fun to watch while knitting. You use one color and when you knit row one you will only see needles selected for motif one. After knitting row 1, the needles selected are motif 2. Then when you knit the next two rows, you will see motif 1 and then motif two. The pushers must be in work under all the front bed needles.
Katherine then suggests using a technique in the manual from 1000 to 1034. Pick your pattern and use technique 149. Ignore the console and use UX. Knitting with these settings gives you a fabric that she calls Loopy Lace. The stitch formation is such that it is being slipped first and then tucked giving a more pronounced look to the pattern. I used the same technique but used two different patterns to see how they each looked.
In the fourth sample she suggests using OX and the fabric looks so similar to fine lace knitted on the Japanese machines. The great thing is you don’t have to use a lace carriage, you just put in black strippers and knit away!
In sample 2, I picked pattern 1032 and technique 149 and UX
In sample 3 I picked pattern 1028 and technique 149 and UX.
In sample 4 I used pattern 1028 and technique 149 and OX
These samples are all knitted single bed.
I hope you try it. I think the one fabric sort of looks like garter stitch that the Brother G carriage knits. If you want more detailed information on how to do this, just email me.

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