Archive for Passap Knitting Machine

Passap Zig Zags by Irene Krueger


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This is the first sample I wanted to make but had to do the other diamond to get the idea into my head of what is being done. This turned out to be easier than the diamond within the diamond. I only had to do this twice . BUT….. after I steamed this out it hit me what Irene Krieger meant when she said you have to remember which needle is your first (or pivot) hole. If you saw my whole swatch sample you would see that the first zig on the left had 10 holes and the second zag on the right had 8. That is because you don’t count the pivot needle.So I will go back and do another sample and write down the directions.

I can see this design going up the middle of a sweater . I can also see it  made much wider . I can also see it going up the middle of a sleeve. The only thing that detracts from the design is my choice of yarn. I just used a 315 scrap yarn. This would look nice in Tepeyac, Diamonte or Estillo or any dress yarn that is finer.

Passap Diamond Within A Diamond


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I was reading an article called Queen of Diamonds by Irene Krieger in Machine Knitting News magazine August 2002 . I looked at this diamond and thought , that’s too easy so lets do the one design next to it. I could not grasp how to do the design I wanted to do  and thought I better try the  “easy” diamond design first to see if it would turn on the light bulb in my brain. OMG!!! The article just tells you how she added texture and some of what she did to arrive at the design. She does not give needle set up or what needles go  on the front or back bed. I sort of assumed it was done on a standard machine but had to try the passap because I love it. (Did I ever mention that? lol)It took me three times before I finally got it. I think it would take me even longer  to  write out the instructions !! haha

You start out doing the eyelet transfer on the front bed. When you move L1  needle to L2 on the same bed, you then bring one needle into work on the back bed opposite the hole.(racking handle up) Then knit four rows. On the next row you take the stitches on either side of the first eyelet(L2, R1) on the front bed and put them on the stitch next to them (L2 to L3 and R1 to R2). Then you pull needles on the back bed forward into the empty spaces. You continue until there are nine needles on the back bed. This is the purl area around the middle “knitted” diamond. Then the fun begins!!! While you are moving the end stitches out on the front bed for the big diamond, now you will start the middle diamond  by moving those stitches to the front bed! Sound confusing? It was and is. My sample is larger because I went wider with the diamond .(And yes, it was a mistake)

The reason that I like this design is because the rest of the garment would be in knit and that is a lot easier sewing the side seams than if it were the purl side. I probably won’t make anything using this design but did you ever wonder how something was done and just had to try it? I know a lot of you can think outside of the box and could come up with lots of ideas where to use this.

Now, I have to go try the design next to this one that I wanted to start with first  and see if I can figure it out after doing this “easy” one. Hah

If enough of you want me to write the instructions on this, I will do it. Just let me know. 🙂

Passap Item for the Goodwill


Bet a lot of you never think I have a project that does not come out well. Wrong! A friend made a tartan plaid wrap and sent me a picture of it. I loved the plaid design. So I decided to make a scarf but I wanted the plaid to go all the way around so I knew I would have a seam. So I moved the pattern around so that one cranberry stripe would go up the middle on each side. Okay, good so far. Then I added two extra stitches , one on each end so the main color would knit those  and sewing up the seam would be easy . Okay, still good . So I cast on 69-69, Technique 195 . Both end needles on the front bed. I used tension 3../3.. so it would be a little tighter weave so it would not be real wide. When I knitted about 3oo rows I got under the machine to look at the fabric.Yep, I like it. Knitted a couple hundred more rows and looked again. I took off the weights and comb and thought, oh, no, this will be too heavy a fabric for me. So now, do I drop from the machine or just finish and see what happens. So, since 2/24 yarn is multiplying in my house, I decided to keep on going to the end of the scarf which was 1152 rows!!!!! This is an afghan! lol Well, I sat and sewed it up and crocheted the ends together to seal the tube. I decided to just give it to the goodwill store. Then I thought maybe my sister would like to put it  around her shoulders when she sits outside on cold nights around their campfire  when they go camping in the late fall.  I visited my sister and she loved it and told me she would use it to put around her shoulders when she sits and reads in their family room. So, all effort is not lost.

Now the real laugh is that it would have been a nice wrap if it was one layer, BUT….since I moved the pattern over the design would be way off if not sewn together. Haha

Passap Valentine Mug Rugs, New On


 

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Hahahaha, bet you did not expect to see more of these. lol These two designs are different from the one I made last year. Remember, these little projects help you in getting to know your machine , casting on , programming and casting off. And they make great little “thinking of you” gifts.

I have given the instructions and files in my drop box. In the top one I don’t like my bind off. I knitted 2 CX rows and one N/N row and then kitchener stitched the open stitches. On the second one on the bottom I just knit two rows of N/N at the same tension and did the kitchener stitch and the top and bottom white look about even. I would suggest this finish on both of them if you make them. The top one is 29 rows and the bottom one is 26 rows so the top one is a little longer than the bottom one.

Remember, tensions are different on all machines. I used a tension 3 and most of my others are tension 3..   so….I am thinking that the mast tension discs might wear out some. I think mine are since I had to turn them to a higher number than 5.

Feel free to change the files if you don’t like them. I may go in and make the bottom red heart 9 stitches wide on each side instead of the 8 stitches that I have.

One file is called 3 heart mug rug and the other is called Heart 4 Mug Rug. I have two bmp files and one stp file.

Happy VD  🙂  This would be a nice gift with a red coffee cup to go with it filled with chocolate candy. Yum! Preferably dark chocolate. Yum! Yum!

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/fdt66f97qwauwzo/AAD7vXTM4eHqkKfO-0TbP_E9a?dl=0

Passap Headband Using the Front Bed


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Here are the two bands I knitted , one leaving the first zig zag row on the back bed(pink) and one dropping the first row of back bed stitches and knitting on the front bed only(blue). The sizes are almost the same but the pink yarn was thicker than the blue. The second picture shows the bind off on the back. Either one is acceptable I think. Picture 3 shows how the teeth of the comb have to come up between the front bed needles in order for the comb to stay on and not drop off. Picture 4 shows the comb hanging behind the front bed stitches after pushing the back bed needles out of work .In the last picture you can see my needle selector tool sitting between the beds to keep the needles from popping up. All the front bed needles were down . I then took a loop and hung it on a front bed needle. Then I skipped a loop ( It does not look like I did but the loop closes when you stretch the one on either side) and I skipped a needle and did that all the way down the bed. Now I could have just bound these off but that would have taken too long and not as easy being on the front bed. So I hand knitted the needles for the row which did not take long. Then I brought up all the back bed needles opposite the front needles , knit a zig zag row and bound off the same way as the original.

So now it is your choice on how you want to make this, with or without frustration!

🙂      Here is the dropbox link   https://www.dropbox.com/s/jgj0og3myadh18o/Passap%20Headband%20on%20Front%20Bed%20Only.docx?dl=0

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Passap Headband-You have to try the design!


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I found this pattern in a magazine  called Canada’s fashion machine. It was made on the DM80 but I made it on the E6000. If you don’t want to make the headband, I encourage you to at least try the design. If you look at the design, the little white ridges between the plain knit stitches look like they are tucked into the fabric yet they pop up a little. It is so pretty up close. It would make a beautiful cuff on a jacket.

In the pattern by Nancy M. Seither, you cast on 1  by 1 and knit one row. Then you only knit on the front bed until the end. At the end, you take the 1 by 1 stitches on the back bed, move them to the front bed. Then you bring all the needles in on the back bed and knit one row on both beds. Separate the beds and crochet off the front bed stitches. I would be curious to try this just knitting on one bed and then hang the first row and bind off. Or how about staying with 1 b 1 rib in place of the stockinette for nice stretch. This does fit nicely though.

Here are the directions in my drop box for you to try.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/kifnlkqcx80r1vy/Passap%20Headband%20Directions%20for%20DM80%20%26%20E6000.docx?dl=0

Passap vs Brother on Lace Scarf


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My friend Jacqui emailed me and told me that this “wave” design is on the Passap magazine #60. Here is the link to see it

http://machineknittingetc.com/passap-60-pattern-book.html

I had given it  a thought to try it on the passap but I figured  it would be a lot of work moving pushers in and out of work. When I saw the magazine I thought I would give it a try since you all know that my passap is my favorite machine.

In the magazine you will notice that the beginning of the sweater is knitted plain without the waves for a number of rows and it is knit on both beds. Then you transfer the back bed to the front bed and do this pattern. At least that is what I was able to figure out since those magazines don’t give a lot of detail.

Well, I found out why it was started tubular and then knitted plain for a number of rows. I cast on tubular and went right into the wave pattern and it was very difficult. If you try this on the passap I would start with waste yarn and ravel cord .

If you look at the sides of this beginning of a scarf, they are relatively straight. (I steamed this out to show you)That is because when you knit the end groups by themselves when you get to the edge, passap instruction tells you to knit 4 rows before working on two groups to start the row. In the video that is posted on my last blog, 6 rows are knitted giving it a wavy edge. I like the wavy edge  better, but that is  just my preference.

So which machine wins?  THE BROTHER

First of all, on my last scarf there were sets of four needles with 3 out of work in-between. On this one there are sets of 6 needles with 2 out of work in-between.

1.The closed beds keep you from seeing the knitting and you can forget which direction you are going in.

2. Quicker to pull needles to hold than it is to put pushers in and out of work. Though I will say, it was not as slow as I thought it would be.

3. On the brother I was able to hold the sets of two stitches I was working on with my little finger to keep them from coming off the stitches.

4. I like the chain cast on that is used to start the scarf on the Brother.

5. More of a chance to put the pushers under the wrong needles and end up with seven in a group instead of the six this calls for .(I know because it happened.LOL)

 

And here is a link to show a scarf on the bulky machine which would go even quicker. 🙂

http://machineknittingfun.blogspot.com/2011/09/my-new-cap.html

Passap Short Row Lesson for Beginners


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I was getting ready to go make a pair of socks on my sock machine. I went to a Facebook website for sock knitters to refresh my memory and I saw this project. The woman said she just knitted five sock heels and then closed it and made a pin cushion. So , I thought I would let beginners know how to short row on the knitting machine before attempting a pair of socks. This can be done on other machines by just putting needles into hold. On the passap, we work with the pushers to make them knit or hold a stitch and using the LX lock setting.

On my sock machine I have a 72 needle cylinder. The toe and heel are worked on 36 needles. So, I decided to work with the same amount on the passap. I like the size the pin cushion is but if you want to use less needles to make it smaller, by all means, experiment. If you want more definite ridges, short row down more than what I did here. I short rowed to 14 stitches and then back out again.

The great thing about learning from this lesson is that you are only working on the front bed and you can open the beds to hang weights and see everything clearly. I have passap heel weights that are flat and slide in nicely between the beds.They are well worth the investment.

Are you ready to try it? And to get a pin cushion out of your lesson? I used sock yarn at a tension 5 and black pushers.  While you are short rowing pay attention to your stitches. If they look like they are starting to rise up, open the beds and move your weights up. With this many needles you won’t have a big problem but move them up for sure after you short row decrease and after you short  row increase in this exercise. After the first heel is complete, you can take off your cast on comb.

Cast on double bed one row and hang a comb so that it will catch the stitches when you remove the back bed needles to out of work position. If you hang it wrong the comb will fall to the floor. Now knit about 10 rows of waste yarn and then knit one row of ravel cord.

TO SHORT ROW- Put the pushers up on the front bed under all 36 needles. Set lock to GX/LX (GX/BX DM80)and knit 1 row to the left with main yarn. Opposite the locks, put one pusher in non-working position and knit one row to the right and wrap the needle on the lock side which is on your right. See the picture below. Continue putting pushers out of work one by one each row until you have 14 stitches in work in the middle of the bed. Your lock will be on the left. Now opposite the locks, put one pusher on the right of working pushers(needle 8) back into work , knit a row and wrap on the lock side. Continue putting one pusher back into work each row opposite the lock until all 36 stitches are back in work. You have completed one “heel”. I did not knit two rows between the five heels. I just started to short row again. I did five heels. I removed the work on waste yarn and no need for ravel cord. It will unravel since it is the last row knitted. Then turn your work so that the purl side is facing out and start to kitchener stitch the beginning of your work to the end of your work. Pull out the ravel cord and the waste yarn on the beginning. Remove the waste yarn at the end of work. Carefully turn right side out through the hole . Stuff your pin cushion , gather the opening with the end of yarn to close the hole and put a button in the middle. I love birds and used a little whimsical button. Great project to use up left over sock yarn from making socks. The woman who made hers used all different colors for each heel. And……..I can’t find the site I saw this project !!!! I also have to tell you that I have sewn for years and I don’t have a decent pin cushion . So this is for me. 🙂

Update on my trip to the lady’s house that offered the free 18 inch doll patterns . I ended up taking two afghans for her. One was the baby afghan lovely and the other one was  the teddy bear one I made that was posted on my blog. I was glad that I did. She gave me about 110 doll patterns!!! So if you dont’ see me posting for awhile, it is because I am sewing…….or getting back to my sock machine. 🙂

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Passap Christmas Mug Rug


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Help! I can’t stop making these mug rugs. LOL This is a three color mug rug, Technique 197 , 40 stitches and 28 rows. The colors are blue, white and hunter green.  I duplicate stitched the ornaments on the tree and the windows of the church. The design is from the book Add a Seasonal Touch by Designs by Debbie. I took several rows out of the church and the steeple so it would not be so tall. I also put space between the tree and church since it was a 24 stitch pattern.  Oops, I forgot to put a star at the top of the tree. I put a stp and bmp file in my drop box.

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/fdt66f97qwauwzo/AAD7vXTM4eHqkKfO-0TbP_E9a?dl=0

Passap Crossed Cabled Pillow


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On the web site I mentioned in my last post   woman7.ru  , there is a hand knitted design of crossed cables. When I saw it I thought, I bet I can do it on the machine. So I picked my favorite , the passap ,and tried it. I am sure this could be done on other machines as well.  I thought it would look nice on a pillow to give it texture so off to my machine I went. It took about two days to make this and I wish I had more rows between the crossed cables. Why you ask? Because it took me a long time to do them. hahaha

I had the pillow form so I knitted 160 rows on 120 stitches using 2/24, two strands . There are 120 stitches on the back bed and the only ones in work on the front bed are   L43-47 and L34-38 for the first cable on the left. The middle cable is on L3-7 and R 3-7. The right cable is on R34-38 and R43-47. I crossed the cables every 20 rows starting on row 20 and ending on row 140. There are four needles out of work between each of the cables. The back bed lock is set at N and the front lock is set at LX with pushers in work position under the 30 working cable stitches.

First put the same color of yarn into eyelet two for the cables so you don’t have to break the main yarn. In eyelet 3 I put waste yarn.To do this  technique I knitted to row 20 and put all the pushers out of work on all the cables except the 5 stitches on the right cable. I set the back lock to GX and knitted 20 rows on the five stitches on the front bed. I took them off on waste yarn, put the pushers out of work and put the five pushers back in work under the next five cable stitches. I did this across the row until I had six long pieces of yarn. I then crossed the cables and put them back on the front bed stitches. Then you have to change the back lock back to N to knit the next20 rows and put the pushers back into work on all of the front bed cable stitches.

You can see it in the picture of how it is done .skvoz_uzori4

If you try this, I recommend waste yarn after knitting the 20 rows so that when you knit across on the other cables, the yarns don’t get tangled under the bed. Also, I put a piece of ravel cord with a bodkin tied to each end to give it weight so I could pass it between the beds and over the five cable stitches to pull on them gently when knitting so the stitches did not bunch up. I had to open the beds a couple of times to move the ravel cord down so it was gently pulling all of the stitches. When you put the stitches back on the needles , make sure the purl side is facing away from the machine.

I hope you try this just to learn the technique and the machine. When I started I cast on a sample of 40 stitches on both beds. I did a circular cast on and then transferred all the stitches to the back bed except the stitches for the middle cable.

By the way, I added a yellow star to the tops of my trees on my four mug rugs. I like them even better now. 🙂dscf3356

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