Archive for Learning your passap machine

Passap Zig Zags by Irene Krueger


dscf3808

This is the first sample I wanted to make but had to do the other diamond to get the idea into my head of what is being done. This turned out to be easier than the diamond within the diamond. I only had to do this twice . BUT….. after I steamed this out it hit me what Irene Krieger meant when she said you have to remember which needle is your first (or pivot) hole. If you saw my whole swatch sample you would see that the first zig on the left had 10 holes and the second zag on the right had 8. That is because you don’t count the pivot needle.So I will go back and do another sample and write down the directions.

I can see this design going up the middle of a sweater . I can also see it  made much wider . I can also see it going up the middle of a sleeve. The only thing that detracts from the design is my choice of yarn. I just used a 315 scrap yarn. This would look nice in Tepeyac, Diamonte or Estillo or any dress yarn that is finer.

Passap Headband Information


I had several people email me about this head band. One very nice lady asked if I had knitted it the way the pattern said. I was intrigued as to why she would ask that. It seems that it is difficult to knit this way with the first row on the back bed and the rest of the work(stockinette) on the front bed until the end.  And she was SOOOOOOOOOO right!!! LOL

I had trouble with this one and I believe it was because the yarn I used on this one was a little thicker than Tamm 3 ply which is what the pattern called for. The blue band is 3 ply by Tamm and I did not have any problems once I passed the 2nd row.

So what do I suggest if you want to try this? I did my first zig zag row at tension 1../1..  Hang a comb! I tried without doing that and the stitches pop up on the following rows.The next row was GX/N and knitted back to the right at tension 3. Bring all front bed needles into work, tension 5 and knit 20 rows. I have a whole set of stainless steel rods my brother in law made me and I laid one in-between the beds at row ten and hung weights on both ends(light Brother claw weights) I do believe this is what saved me from stitches popping up. I think you could use a wooden dowel rod and hang weights  on the ends.  I will caution you if you open the beds just to look at your work. It will be almost impossible to close the beds if you don’t put something between them to hold the work down! I also have a thin piece of plastic like a large credit card and I pushed the stitches down every couple of rows on this one. On my blue one I did not have to do it at all. I posted pictures to show you how it looks while knitting.

DO NOT criticize my dirty needle beds or I won’t post anymore!!!!    🙂

So if you really feel you need to conquer this technique, by all means try it on a smaller amount of needles so you don’t get totally frustrated. However, I just made another headband and I knitted   it on the front bed only and it came out the same size and I had the whole band knitted in 10 minutes. Hahahahaha The finish took a little bit more time but no frustration, just a little more time. However, overall, I believe the single bed band was faster. I will be posting a picture of it tomorrow along with instructions.

row-1-2

row-3

row3-6

row-20

row-at-the-finish

row-2nd-last-row

row-final

Passap Headband-You have to try the design!


dscf3646

dscf3639dscf3634

I found this pattern in a magazine  called Canada’s fashion machine. It was made on the DM80 but I made it on the E6000. If you don’t want to make the headband, I encourage you to at least try the design. If you look at the design, the little white ridges between the plain knit stitches look like they are tucked into the fabric yet they pop up a little. It is so pretty up close. It would make a beautiful cuff on a jacket.

In the pattern by Nancy M. Seither, you cast on 1  by 1 and knit one row. Then you only knit on the front bed until the end. At the end, you take the 1 by 1 stitches on the back bed, move them to the front bed. Then you bring all the needles in on the back bed and knit one row on both beds. Separate the beds and crochet off the front bed stitches. I would be curious to try this just knitting on one bed and then hang the first row and bind off. Or how about staying with 1 b 1 rib in place of the stockinette for nice stretch. This does fit nicely though.

Here are the directions in my drop box for you to try.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/kifnlkqcx80r1vy/Passap%20Headband%20Directions%20for%20DM80%20%26%20E6000.docx?dl=0

Passap Short Row Lesson for Beginners


dscf3460

I was getting ready to go make a pair of socks on my sock machine. I went to a Facebook website for sock knitters to refresh my memory and I saw this project. The woman said she just knitted five sock heels and then closed it and made a pin cushion. So , I thought I would let beginners know how to short row on the knitting machine before attempting a pair of socks. This can be done on other machines by just putting needles into hold. On the passap, we work with the pushers to make them knit or hold a stitch and using the LX lock setting.

On my sock machine I have a 72 needle cylinder. The toe and heel are worked on 36 needles. So, I decided to work with the same amount on the passap. I like the size the pin cushion is but if you want to use less needles to make it smaller, by all means, experiment. If you want more definite ridges, short row down more than what I did here. I short rowed to 14 stitches and then back out again.

The great thing about learning from this lesson is that you are only working on the front bed and you can open the beds to hang weights and see everything clearly. I have passap heel weights that are flat and slide in nicely between the beds.They are well worth the investment.

Are you ready to try it? And to get a pin cushion out of your lesson? I used sock yarn at a tension 5 and black pushers.  While you are short rowing pay attention to your stitches. If they look like they are starting to rise up, open the beds and move your weights up. With this many needles you won’t have a big problem but move them up for sure after you short row decrease and after you short  row increase in this exercise. After the first heel is complete, you can take off your cast on comb.

Cast on double bed one row and hang a comb so that it will catch the stitches when you remove the back bed needles to out of work position. If you hang it wrong the comb will fall to the floor. Now knit about 10 rows of waste yarn and then knit one row of ravel cord.

TO SHORT ROW- Put the pushers up on the front bed under all 36 needles. Set lock to GX/LX (GX/BX DM80)and knit 1 row to the left with main yarn. Opposite the locks, put one pusher in non-working position and knit one row to the right and wrap the needle on the lock side which is on your right. See the picture below. Continue putting pushers out of work one by one each row until you have 14 stitches in work in the middle of the bed. Your lock will be on the left. Now opposite the locks, put one pusher on the right of working pushers(needle 8) back into work , knit a row and wrap on the lock side. Continue putting one pusher back into work each row opposite the lock until all 36 stitches are back in work. You have completed one “heel”. I did not knit two rows between the five heels. I just started to short row again. I did five heels. I removed the work on waste yarn and no need for ravel cord. It will unravel since it is the last row knitted. Then turn your work so that the purl side is facing out and start to kitchener stitch the beginning of your work to the end of your work. Pull out the ravel cord and the waste yarn on the beginning. Remove the waste yarn at the end of work. Carefully turn right side out through the hole . Stuff your pin cushion , gather the opening with the end of yarn to close the hole and put a button in the middle. I love birds and used a little whimsical button. Great project to use up left over sock yarn from making socks. The woman who made hers used all different colors for each heel. And……..I can’t find the site I saw this project !!!! I also have to tell you that I have sewn for years and I don’t have a decent pin cushion . So this is for me. 🙂

Update on my trip to the lady’s house that offered the free 18 inch doll patterns . I ended up taking two afghans for her. One was the baby afghan lovely and the other one was  the teddy bear one I made that was posted on my blog. I was glad that I did. She gave me about 110 doll patterns!!! So if you dont’ see me posting for awhile, it is because I am sewing…….or getting back to my sock machine. 🙂

shortrow1shortrow2shortrow3shortrow5

 

Passap Crossed Cabled Pillow


s0063422

On the web site I mentioned in my last post   woman7.ru  , there is a hand knitted design of crossed cables. When I saw it I thought, I bet I can do it on the machine. So I picked my favorite , the passap ,and tried it. I am sure this could be done on other machines as well.  I thought it would look nice on a pillow to give it texture so off to my machine I went. It took about two days to make this and I wish I had more rows between the crossed cables. Why you ask? Because it took me a long time to do them. hahaha

I had the pillow form so I knitted 160 rows on 120 stitches using 2/24, two strands . There are 120 stitches on the back bed and the only ones in work on the front bed are   L43-47 and L34-38 for the first cable on the left. The middle cable is on L3-7 and R 3-7. The right cable is on R34-38 and R43-47. I crossed the cables every 20 rows starting on row 20 and ending on row 140. There are four needles out of work between each of the cables. The back bed lock is set at N and the front lock is set at LX with pushers in work position under the 30 working cable stitches.

First put the same color of yarn into eyelet two for the cables so you don’t have to break the main yarn. In eyelet 3 I put waste yarn.To do this  technique I knitted to row 20 and put all the pushers out of work on all the cables except the 5 stitches on the right cable. I set the back lock to GX and knitted 20 rows on the five stitches on the front bed. I took them off on waste yarn, put the pushers out of work and put the five pushers back in work under the next five cable stitches. I did this across the row until I had six long pieces of yarn. I then crossed the cables and put them back on the front bed stitches. Then you have to change the back lock back to N to knit the next20 rows and put the pushers back into work on all of the front bed cable stitches.

You can see it in the picture of how it is done .skvoz_uzori4

If you try this, I recommend waste yarn after knitting the 20 rows so that when you knit across on the other cables, the yarns don’t get tangled under the bed. Also, I put a piece of ravel cord with a bodkin tied to each end to give it weight so I could pass it between the beds and over the five cable stitches to pull on them gently when knitting so the stitches did not bunch up. I had to open the beds a couple of times to move the ravel cord down so it was gently pulling all of the stitches. When you put the stitches back on the needles , make sure the purl side is facing away from the machine.

I hope you try this just to learn the technique and the machine. When I started I cast on a sample of 40 stitches on both beds. I did a circular cast on and then transferred all the stitches to the back bed except the stitches for the middle cable.

By the way, I added a yellow star to the tops of my trees on my four mug rugs. I like them even better now. 🙂dscf3356

Passap Thanksgiving Placemat for Turkey


1-6

 

Okay, I am sorry it took so long to get this posted. I had been working on it but then other issues came up and I had to put this on the back burner. I wanted one for my turkey so I finally finished it and knitted it. This size is 95 stitches by 55 rows. Total rows 330. Technique 197. Finished size is 13.5 inches wide and 11 inches long. I did change my main tension to 4 from 3and two dots. I was discussing the bind off with a knitter friend of mine and she asked if I finished it using the kitchener stitch. DUH! I never thought of that. So that is what I did and I like the finished edge better than the latch tool. Yes, it took longer to do it but I think it is much better. So that is my way of finishing mug rugs and mats from now on. To finish it I knitted 330 rows. Then I set the locks to N/N and knitted one row of color one at the same tension I used for the mat. Then I took it off using waste yarn and circular settings (CX/CX)with a good contrasting yarn. The colors are beige, brown and orange and I used two strands each of 2/24. Here is the link to my drop box, I put the file of the design in bmp and stp format. The stp file is urkey.stp       lol   I guess I was in a hurry and missed the t in turkey.

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/9ras1aqz7m95ww8/AABvdJimAWDFJqunFPIO35l-a?dl=0

 

In the lettering it looks like a mistake on the letter “a” but that is from a letter graph that I used. Feel free to go in and change it if you don’t like it.  Please do not sell this pattern as your own.

I would like to wish all of my followers a very Happy Thanksgiving!  🙂

Passap Halloween Mug Rugs


dscf2953

 

dscf2957

I made some mug rug designs in case you don’t want to do the larger placemats. I love these because I can just throw them in the washing machine if they get dirty and they don’t take any space to store until the next year.

Note: In my place mat instructions I did not mention at the end to latch tool bind off the stitches that are on waste yarn starting at the end without the yarn tail. I was assuming everyone would know how to do this.

You can find the instructions in my drop box link.

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/776mzn2ch7wvzyi/AAANC08RRuAv_3ofx2KFB7jHa?dl=0

Passap Double Jacquard Square Neck Tunic


Front of Passap DJ Tunic Sweater

DSCF2656

Side view showing ribbing on sleeve and side seam

I tried the square neckline in my last posting because I wanted to make a square necked tunic.  I used Bramwell’s Duo Magic in olive green and wood pigeon! What color is that you ask? It is like a beige color. I used pattern 1289 (8 stitches by 8 rows)in the passap pattern book and technique 183. After I figured the number of stitches I needed I realized it was the perfect amount for the sides to match….a first for me.

I did the neck ribbing after I finished the front .  I sort of thought it looked plain and matronly but I continued to knit the back  .  I figured out how to knit the back with a one inch drop without doing a cut and sew. Then I knit the back rib .

I have not done a lot of double bed knitting of garments but I thought the shoulder seam would be thick with four sets of stitches. I decided to make a band of ribbing that would mask that if it happened. I hung the shoulder stitches right sides together with the ribbing in-between. I then cast off. The shoulder seam is really flat . Now I am looking at it and thinking it is still pretty plain looking and not sure I should have done the ribbing on the shoulders. I came up with the idea of ribbing between the side seams near the hem. I did the same thing by putting the ribbing between the two fabrics right sides together. Okay, not so plain. Now for the sleeves!  The sleeves were 400 knitted rows!!!  I finished both sleeves and then got to thinking   of how to put a ribbing on the sleeve but not between the seam. I knitted up the ribbing, took it off on waste yarn and latch tooled the open stitches from the inside between a knitted column. It worked. lol

Here is what I learned while knitting this.

To take stitches off on waste yarn on a brother is easy .You just pull out the needles to hold that you don’t want to knit. I had to figure out how to do this to remove the left side stitches of the front to work on the right side. I figured out how to do this on the passap and laughed when I succeeded. I used pushers under the front needles I wanted to remove and LX setting on front lock and GX on back lock. On the back I brought in pushers and used BX and GX on the front lock.. I took off circular and it made it easier to rehang  the stitches to do the left front shaping.

The next thing I learned is that when your increases or decreases are in every row if you don’t put the end pushers up on the front bed, the end needles will start to have stitches pile up . That is because you knit four rows for one row and the second color did not always knit the end stitches because of the pattern.I experienced this on the sleeve cap.

The third thing I did was when I knitted the sleeves, I started with 60 stitches and got to 120 at the underarm. When setting up the pattern I set the Left and Right stitches at 35- and 35+. This way, when I was knitting I did not have to take the locks all the way out to needle 60 so the console would not beep and make me reset the pattern. I kept doing this as I increased in increments of five. I never forgot once. What also surprised me is that I never forgot to put a pusher in work or out of work. When I first knitted on the passap , I always forgot since you don’t have to worry about that on a brother machine.

I am now happy with the sweater and especially with the weight of it. I love Bramwell yarns and I am glad I made this sweater instead of an afghan. AND I still have 8 ounces of yarn left on each cone!

Was it as easy as I thought it would be? Yes and  No.  I would say it was more time consuming than difficult. Every time I decreased or increased it was on each bed and it took a lot of time. On my sleeves I had 28 increases on both sides to the underarm. That means four decrease each time(both ends and front and back bed) On the sleeve cap there were 1 stitch decreases on almost all of the rows until the last rows at the top. I think the first sleeve took me 2&1/2 hours to do. The neckline probably took about that length of time also. I started to laugh when I was knitting the front. It was 292 rows on the front to the underarm and it felt like I was knitting an afghan!!!!    🙂

 

 

 

I

Passap Mitered Trim for Square Neckline


DSCF2617

 

I really like square necklines but have never done one….go figure!  It has been so hot and humid and I have been trapped inside so I started looking through books that I have. I came across the instructions for a mitered band for a square neckline knitted on the passap in the book Going Places Knitting Technique Passap, designs by Jan Wold and Jan Mills.

I really like how it turned out. It is a lot of moving the needles down the right and left side  of each corner after you decrease at the corner but I would definitely do one on the machine. My girlfriend Sheila could probably knit it faster than it takes me to do it on the machine.No, not probably, she could!

One thing I don’t get is, after you move all the stitches down( and it is done twice over four rows of the decrease) she tells you to take the end most stitch on the bed and transfer it to the other bed and then take the heel of the stitch next to the needle you just emptied and move it to the right(or left) to keep in a one by one sequence. What is happening is that you are actually decreasing two stitches at the corner and then move all the work over and increase one stitch on each end. I get that but if you look at the edge at the shoulder, it curves up and I would not include that curve when I sew the rib together from the back. Maybe it is there to give and edge to sew.

The great thing about a square neck is there is no neckline shaping on the front of the sweater and that is nice if you are doing double jacquard.  I just might make a sweater for myself and try this out. I did not do a good job of picking up the neckline stitches on the side but would definitely pay attention on the real thing. Also, the side of the little sample is knit at a higher tension since I took off the middle stitches on waste yarn and forgot to turn the tension back down. Of course that won’t happen if I knit a sweater for real. haha

This can be done on all machines with a ribber, but be careful of how you hang the body of the sweater before starting to make sure you are on the right side. This sample has the main body of the sweater wrong side facing and hung on the back bed to start.

Passap Baby Afghan by Joan Swanson Award Winning Afghans


DSCF2614

 

A dear friend gave me some yarn (yep, will have to move the hubby out to make more room !)  It  is 2/17 yarn and I used one strand of each color. It came out lighter weight than 2/24 but I think it will be nice because of that. Mom’s don’t need to carry more weight including the baby. The pattern was in Prize Winning Afghans and I believe the author is Joan Swanson.  The pattern was narrower and longer so I reduced the rows and increased the width. The final width of the knitted blanket is 30 inches by 30 inches. The pattern is  162 stitches wide and 153 rows in length. I used technique 187.

I also knitted the bear. It is a gypsy cream pattern.

« Previous entries