Archive for Learning your passap machine

Passap E6000 Owl Baby Afghan


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I promised my sister I would knit her a baby afghan for a shower she was going to before I broke my arm. The baby’s room is being done in owls and the colors of purple and pink. She called and wondered if I was still going to be able to do it since she needs it ASAP. No pressure there. lol  No sympathy either with a broken arm. Lol, just kidding sis! I already made her feel bad telling her that her husband and son are landscapers and they did not come and cut my lawn for me . That wasn’t fair since they live an hour away.

I wanted to try something awhile back so I thought I would try it on this afghan.I read an article that said you can take any Japanese design and knit it on the passap without distortion if you use the  single bed technique  179 but knit it double bed. You have to do two things to do this. You have to have an even number of rows and you always have to reverse the main and motif colors. I googled owls on the internet and found a punch card with this design. I entered it into win/crea since it was only 21 stitches wide and 35 rows and made up the design. I used 168 stitches and the pattern is 198 rows. The afghan came out 29 inches by 29 inches. I could have added another row of owls but did not want a real large afghan. The colors are purple and pink even though the pink looks white. The owl does look better in the purple rather than the pink. The pink ones look like they have ghost eyes. haha

I was able to knit with one arm. The only hard part was putting the cast on comb in. I took my time and no mistakes…..always a good day when that happens!

I have the directions on how I knitted this afghan(but not the file) in detail right down to  how to program the console for color reverse. Email me if you would like a copy.

 

Passap Creative Slip and Tuck


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I have not been able to do much since I was playing super woman and broke my left arm. Don’t feel bad for me, I just need to be reminded I am not in my twenties! Lol That is why I have not posted……or done much of anything!

However, I have a follower that tries every thing I post.  🙂   She sent me a picture of a summer top she is working on using the slip and tuck technique in my last post. She also sent me a picture of a summer top she made using the Irene Krieger Diamond technique. She gave me permission to share them with you. I noticed the puckers between the two techniques in the slip and tuck but I think it adds texture.

Great work Aaltje and thank you for sharing!

Passap Creative Slip and Tuck


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My friend Jacqui and I were discussing the Passap Knitting Machine and what it can do. She told me that there was an article in KnitWords Magazine #1, 1997 Summer on knitting two motifs side by side and one motif was slip stitch and one motif was tuck. The article is written by Katherine Geiger and she sounds just like me. She was so excited figuring this out and seeing what this Passap 6000 can do!
I just had to try this. In the article Katherine has a design that she made . I put it into win/crea and downloaded it. This is sample 1. The diamonds are tuck and the zig zag is slip.
How unique is that? The technique used is 129 (or 179)and when it says to change to KX, ignore the console and put UX setting on front lock.
The OX and UX settings slip and tuck in different directions. So when she made her pattern she starts the pattern that she wants to slip on the odd numbered lines and tuck motifs on even numbered lines with a blank row in-between each row of each of the designs. What happens is that when one motif tucks, the slip motif is inactive. When the slip motif is active the tuck motif is inactive. It was fun to watch while knitting. You use one color and when you knit row one you will only see needles selected for motif one. After knitting row 1, the needles selected are motif 2. Then when you knit the next two rows, you will see motif 1 and then motif two. The pushers must be in work under all the front bed needles.
Katherine then suggests using a technique in the manual from 1000 to 1034. Pick your pattern and use technique 149. Ignore the console and use UX. Knitting with these settings gives you a fabric that she calls Loopy Lace. The stitch formation is such that it is being slipped first and then tucked giving a more pronounced look to the pattern. I used the same technique but used two different patterns to see how they each looked.
In the fourth sample she suggests using OX and the fabric looks so similar to fine lace knitted on the Japanese machines. The great thing is you don’t have to use a lace carriage, you just put in black strippers and knit away!
In sample 2, I picked pattern 1032 and technique 149 and UX
In sample 3 I picked pattern 1028 and technique 149 and UX.
In sample 4 I used pattern 1028 and technique 149 and OX
These samples are all knitted single bed.
I hope you try it. I think the one fabric sort of looks like garter stitch that the Brother G carriage knits. If you want more detailed information on how to do this, just email me.

Passap Vertical Band for a Sweater or Jacket


I am still learning new things on my passap and I have had it for quite awhile. I just tried something I saw in a book that I have. It is knitting a vertical band while knitting the sweater so you don’t have to go back and attach a band. Well, that’s not new you say. I didn’t think so either until I read the directions. When I finished the dark blue one I liked the look. I also noticed it did not curl in . I gently steamed it and it hangs nicely. I think it would be really nice on a formal jacket knitted plain. I would not do as deep a hem or I wouldn’t do a hem at all and just start with the side band . This is simple to do and I hope you try it.
The hem tension was 4 (2 strands of 2/24)Cast on any number of stitches using the N/N row (2..), 2 rows CX/CX (3)and one N/N(4) row. Knit the number of rows you want for a hem. Then transfer all of the stitches on the front bed to the back bed EXCEPT the last five on the right.
Set the front lock to CX and tension 6 and the back lock to N at tension 5. Put in black strippers. Gently weight the five end stitches. With the front lock setting on CX it stretches the stitch a little so it is noticeable and you only knit one row on that front bed for every two rows of knitting. Incidentally, you don’t need front or back bed pushers.I went back and did another sample leaving only 2 stitches on the end instead of 5 and liked it even better. Even the purl side looks good and the edge stands out even more. Notice in the pictures how the border does not show until you transfer the stitches and set the front lock to CX.

I wanted to see how this would look as a design so I just went back and knitted the same thing using 60 stitches .I set up 2 stitches working on the front bed with four empty needles between them. It reminds me of a tuck stitch but if a mistake is made this is so simple to correct. You don’t have to use the console and ripping back would be fast. Notice on one edge I have the 2 stitch border and for the hem I knitted four rows before transferring the stitches to the back bed.

Passap Lapghan using 3 color techniques


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Ha, ha, fooled you again. Here is my knitted strip of techniques for a three color design. It is shorter and took 918rows of knitting. I used 60 stitches and I knit 102 rows of each. I knitted techniques 195 to 200. Then the last three are 204,205 and 206.

I also had to learn how to download a 3 color pattern that is in the console. I realized I had never done this. These are the ones with the asterisks next to them in the pattern book.   I used pattern 1285 and added 1286. I wrote this down programming the console to downloading to locks. If you would like a copy, please email me. If you would also like the information to attach to your strips of knitting, if you do one, email me for that as well.

The strangest of the techniques are 204,205 and 206.(bottom 3) In the picture you can see a blister type effect that is more pronounced in the last one. The book calls this a pin tuck effect. These three techniques require back lock changes. In #204 you knit 2 rows of color one on LX/N, 2 rows of color 2 on LX/N, and you knit 4 rows of color three on LX/BX. In other words, you are knitting 8 rows for one row of knitting. On #205 you will do the same with colors one and two and then you will knit 6 rows of color 3 on LX/BX. In this one you are knitting 10 rows for each row. On #206 you will do the same with colors one and two and then knit 8 rows of color 3 on LX/BX. This knits 12 rows for one row of knitting. All three of these techniques use black strippers. Now I don’t know if I did the last three right so I am going to go back and try something different to see if they look the same. On the back bed you only have four pushers in work , two on each end. It also might look strange to me because of the pattern I chose. I know that when I give up this machine, I still will not know everything it can do!!

Passap Afghan of Many Techniques


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Bet you thought you were going to see another large afghan. Well this strip of techniques was the length of an afghan . I knitted techniques 180 to 191 . I knitted 21 rows for each technique and that came to 84 knitted rows . I used 60 stitches, the same pattern, same tension, same amount of rows. I typed up the techniques, put in the settings and pusher information. I laminated the information and attached with a yarn that is strong like ravel cord so they won’t come off. I am doing this for a friend that I am helping with the E6000.  This shows her the backs and the sizes when she chooses an afghan. I made an afghan using the Fairisle Fantasy but she wanted it in a lap blanket so we looked at the strip and chose a different technique. It came out perfect for her but we also shortened the pattern as well.

I learned several things doing this. My arm is killing me. Hahahaha, just kidding. First, I love this machine. Lol  Second, it took me longer to do than an afghan since you have to reprogram every technique and set the pushers on the back bed in or out of the rail. You can see the widest one and it is technique 186 which is the fantasy fairisle. What surprises me is that you don’t see , or I should say, I don’t see many afghans made using the last four techniques 188-191. You have to change the back lock every two rows on a couple of them but it is not confusing. The console tells you when to change. Techniques 188 to 191 are closer in width to the fantasy fairisle . Also notice that the technique 181 has a solid back. I also knitted technique 185 for the first time which is the long stitch or summer fairisle and I like it. It is amazing how one pattern can look so different in every one of the techniques. This also gives you an idea of distortion using different techniques.

Also, I have two little cutters on my other knitting machine carriages for cutting the yarn . They are great and I don’t have to pick up a pair of scissors. I bought these years ago for a dollar and have not found them since. A couple of weeks ago I went to a sewing expo in Cleveland and I found this( I should say my friend found it) . It was $7.95 and I have it mounted on top of my passap lock. It is not as nice as my cheapie but it sure does the trick for cutting my yarn. 🙂 It has a self stick backing.

Passap Raglan Decreases-Single bed


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I came across an article called Nice’ N’ Easy  by George LeWarre in the Duet International Book Number 8 Autumn/Fall 1991. I compared them to the decreases I had done previously in my blog and they are different. Their may be one that is the same. If you print out the page that is the picture above, you will have the directions and a picture of what they look like. On the third one down, there is a one, two and three stitch decrease. You would pick one of the three, not do them all in a row like my sample. I have about four more to add and will notify you later.

I would like to encourage you to try these and make a sample of your own and label them for future reference. You might want to start your own book of samples.

That is what  I am doing now when I don’t feel like knitting. I am using  large notebooks with pictures and directions and putting in all the samples I have knitted .They will be going with my passap when I sell her so that the next person does not have to spend all of their time on the internet looking for directions on a particular technique.  So far I have about 5 notebooks but I am going to organize them better.

The picture above is in my drop box with the other raglan decreases.

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/lhfvnw0ncnhgs0t/AADJ_PxwCNWUnUe41dJ7IkA2a?dl=0

Passap Zig Zags by Irene Krueger


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This is the first sample I wanted to make but had to do the other diamond to get the idea into my head of what is being done. This turned out to be easier than the diamond within the diamond. I only had to do this twice . BUT….. after I steamed this out it hit me what Irene Krieger meant when she said you have to remember which needle is your first (or pivot) hole. If you saw my whole swatch sample you would see that the first zig on the left had 10 holes and the second zag on the right had 8. That is because you don’t count the pivot needle.So I will go back and do another sample and write down the directions.

I can see this design going up the middle of a sweater . I can also see it  made much wider . I can also see it going up the middle of a sleeve. The only thing that detracts from the design is my choice of yarn. I just used a 315 scrap yarn. This would look nice in Tepeyac, Diamonte or Estillo or any dress yarn that is finer.

Passap Headband Information


I had several people email me about this head band. One very nice lady asked if I had knitted it the way the pattern said. I was intrigued as to why she would ask that. It seems that it is difficult to knit this way with the first row on the back bed and the rest of the work(stockinette) on the front bed until the end.  And she was SOOOOOOOOOO right!!! LOL

I had trouble with this one and I believe it was because the yarn I used on this one was a little thicker than Tamm 3 ply which is what the pattern called for. The blue band is 3 ply by Tamm and I did not have any problems once I passed the 2nd row.

So what do I suggest if you want to try this? I did my first zig zag row at tension 1../1..  Hang a comb! I tried without doing that and the stitches pop up on the following rows.The next row was GX/N and knitted back to the right at tension 3. Bring all front bed needles into work, tension 5 and knit 20 rows. I have a whole set of stainless steel rods my brother in law made me and I laid one in-between the beds at row ten and hung weights on both ends(light Brother claw weights) I do believe this is what saved me from stitches popping up. I think you could use a wooden dowel rod and hang weights  on the ends.  I will caution you if you open the beds just to look at your work. It will be almost impossible to close the beds if you don’t put something between them to hold the work down! I also have a thin piece of plastic like a large credit card and I pushed the stitches down every couple of rows on this one. On my blue one I did not have to do it at all. I posted pictures to show you how it looks while knitting.

DO NOT criticize my dirty needle beds or I won’t post anymore!!!!    🙂

So if you really feel you need to conquer this technique, by all means try it on a smaller amount of needles so you don’t get totally frustrated. However, I just made another headband and I knitted   it on the front bed only and it came out the same size and I had the whole band knitted in 10 minutes. Hahahahaha The finish took a little bit more time but no frustration, just a little more time. However, overall, I believe the single bed band was faster. I will be posting a picture of it tomorrow along with instructions.

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Passap Headband-You have to try the design!


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I found this pattern in a magazine  called Canada’s fashion machine. It was made on the DM80 but I made it on the E6000. If you don’t want to make the headband, I encourage you to at least try the design. If you look at the design, the little white ridges between the plain knit stitches look like they are tucked into the fabric yet they pop up a little. It is so pretty up close. It would make a beautiful cuff on a jacket.

In the pattern by Nancy M. Seither, you cast on 1  by 1 and knit one row. Then you only knit on the front bed until the end. At the end, you take the 1 by 1 stitches on the back bed, move them to the front bed. Then you bring all the needles in on the back bed and knit one row on both beds. Separate the beds and crochet off the front bed stitches. I would be curious to try this just knitting on one bed and then hang the first row and bind off. Or how about staying with 1 b 1 rib in place of the stockinette for nice stretch. This does fit nicely though.

Here are the directions in my drop box for you to try.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/kifnlkqcx80r1vy/Passap%20Headband%20Directions%20for%20DM80%20%26%20E6000.docx?dl=0

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