Archive for Learning your passap machine

Passap Lapghan using 3 color techniques


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Ha, ha, fooled you again. Here is my knitted strip of techniques for a three color design. It is shorter and took 918rows of knitting. I used 60 stitches and I knit 102 rows of each. I knitted techniques 195 to 200. Then the last three are 204,205 and 206.

I also had to learn how to download a 3 color pattern that is in the console. I realized I had never done this. These are the ones with the asterisks next to them in the pattern book.   I used pattern 1285 and added 1286. I wrote this down programming the console to downloading to locks. If you would like a copy, please email me. If you would also like the information to attach to your strips of knitting, if you do one, email me for that as well.

The strangest of the techniques are 204,205 and 206.(bottom 3) In the picture you can see a blister type effect that is more pronounced in the last one. The book calls this a pin tuck effect. These three techniques require back lock changes. In #204 you knit 2 rows of color one on LX/N, 2 rows of color 2 on LX/N, and you knit 4 rows of color three on LX/BX. In other words, you are knitting 8 rows for one row of knitting. On #205 you will do the same with colors one and two and then you will knit 6 rows of color 3 on LX/BX. In this one you are knitting 10 rows for each row. On #206 you will do the same with colors one and two and then knit 8 rows of color 3 on LX/BX. This knits 12 rows for one row of knitting. All three of these techniques use black strippers. Now I don’t know if I did the last three right so I am going to go back and try something different to see if they look the same. On the back bed you only have four pushers in work , two on each end. It also might look strange to me because of the pattern I chose. I know that when I give up this machine, I still will not know everything it can do!!

Passap Afghan of Many Techniques


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Bet you thought you were going to see another large afghan. Well this strip of techniques was the length of an afghan . I knitted techniques 180 to 191 . I knitted 21 rows for each technique and that came to 84 knitted rows . I used 60 stitches, the same pattern, same tension, same amount of rows. I typed up the techniques, put in the settings and pusher information. I laminated the information and attached with a yarn that is strong like ravel cord so they won’t come off. I am doing this for a friend that I am helping with the E6000.  This shows her the backs and the sizes when she chooses an afghan. I made an afghan using the Fairisle Fantasy but she wanted it in a lap blanket so we looked at the strip and chose a different technique. It came out perfect for her but we also shortened the pattern as well.

I learned several things doing this. My arm is killing me. Hahahaha, just kidding. First, I love this machine. Lol  Second, it took me longer to do than an afghan since you have to reprogram every technique and set the pushers on the back bed in or out of the rail. You can see the widest one and it is technique 186 which is the fantasy fairisle. What surprises me is that you don’t see , or I should say, I don’t see many afghans made using the last four techniques 188-191. You have to change the back lock every two rows on a couple of them but it is not confusing. The console tells you when to change. Techniques 188 to 191 are closer in width to the fantasy fairisle . Also notice that the technique 181 has a solid back. I also knitted technique 185 for the first time which is the long stitch or summer fairisle and I like it. It is amazing how one pattern can look so different in every one of the techniques. This also gives you an idea of distortion using different techniques.

Also, I have two little cutters on my other knitting machine carriages for cutting the yarn . They are great and I don’t have to pick up a pair of scissors. I bought these years ago for a dollar and have not found them since. A couple of weeks ago I went to a sewing expo in Cleveland and I found this( I should say my friend found it) . It was $7.95 and I have it mounted on top of my passap lock. It is not as nice as my cheapie but it sure does the trick for cutting my yarn. 🙂 It has a self stick backing.

Passap Raglan Decreases-Single bed


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I came across an article called Nice’ N’ Easy  by George LeWarre in the Duet International Book Number 8 Autumn/Fall 1991. I compared them to the decreases I had done previously in my blog and they are different. Their may be one that is the same. If you print out the page that is the picture above, you will have the directions and a picture of what they look like. On the third one down, there is a one, two and three stitch decrease. You would pick one of the three, not do them all in a row like my sample. I have about four more to add and will notify you later.

I would like to encourage you to try these and make a sample of your own and label them for future reference. You might want to start your own book of samples.

That is what  I am doing now when I don’t feel like knitting. I am using  large notebooks with pictures and directions and putting in all the samples I have knitted .They will be going with my passap when I sell her so that the next person does not have to spend all of their time on the internet looking for directions on a particular technique.  So far I have about 5 notebooks but I am going to organize them better.

The picture above is in my drop box with the other raglan decreases.

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/lhfvnw0ncnhgs0t/AADJ_PxwCNWUnUe41dJ7IkA2a?dl=0

Passap Zig Zags by Irene Krueger


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This is the first sample I wanted to make but had to do the other diamond to get the idea into my head of what is being done. This turned out to be easier than the diamond within the diamond. I only had to do this twice . BUT….. after I steamed this out it hit me what Irene Krieger meant when she said you have to remember which needle is your first (or pivot) hole. If you saw my whole swatch sample you would see that the first zig on the left had 10 holes and the second zag on the right had 8. That is because you don’t count the pivot needle.So I will go back and do another sample and write down the directions.

I can see this design going up the middle of a sweater . I can also see it  made much wider . I can also see it going up the middle of a sleeve. The only thing that detracts from the design is my choice of yarn. I just used a 315 scrap yarn. This would look nice in Tepeyac, Diamonte or Estillo or any dress yarn that is finer.

Passap Headband Information


I had several people email me about this head band. One very nice lady asked if I had knitted it the way the pattern said. I was intrigued as to why she would ask that. It seems that it is difficult to knit this way with the first row on the back bed and the rest of the work(stockinette) on the front bed until the end.  And she was SOOOOOOOOOO right!!! LOL

I had trouble with this one and I believe it was because the yarn I used on this one was a little thicker than Tamm 3 ply which is what the pattern called for. The blue band is 3 ply by Tamm and I did not have any problems once I passed the 2nd row.

So what do I suggest if you want to try this? I did my first zig zag row at tension 1../1..  Hang a comb! I tried without doing that and the stitches pop up on the following rows.The next row was GX/N and knitted back to the right at tension 3. Bring all front bed needles into work, tension 5 and knit 20 rows. I have a whole set of stainless steel rods my brother in law made me and I laid one in-between the beds at row ten and hung weights on both ends(light Brother claw weights) I do believe this is what saved me from stitches popping up. I think you could use a wooden dowel rod and hang weights  on the ends.  I will caution you if you open the beds just to look at your work. It will be almost impossible to close the beds if you don’t put something between them to hold the work down! I also have a thin piece of plastic like a large credit card and I pushed the stitches down every couple of rows on this one. On my blue one I did not have to do it at all. I posted pictures to show you how it looks while knitting.

DO NOT criticize my dirty needle beds or I won’t post anymore!!!!    🙂

So if you really feel you need to conquer this technique, by all means try it on a smaller amount of needles so you don’t get totally frustrated. However, I just made another headband and I knitted   it on the front bed only and it came out the same size and I had the whole band knitted in 10 minutes. Hahahahaha The finish took a little bit more time but no frustration, just a little more time. However, overall, I believe the single bed band was faster. I will be posting a picture of it tomorrow along with instructions.

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Passap Headband-You have to try the design!


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I found this pattern in a magazine  called Canada’s fashion machine. It was made on the DM80 but I made it on the E6000. If you don’t want to make the headband, I encourage you to at least try the design. If you look at the design, the little white ridges between the plain knit stitches look like they are tucked into the fabric yet they pop up a little. It is so pretty up close. It would make a beautiful cuff on a jacket.

In the pattern by Nancy M. Seither, you cast on 1  by 1 and knit one row. Then you only knit on the front bed until the end. At the end, you take the 1 by 1 stitches on the back bed, move them to the front bed. Then you bring all the needles in on the back bed and knit one row on both beds. Separate the beds and crochet off the front bed stitches. I would be curious to try this just knitting on one bed and then hang the first row and bind off. Or how about staying with 1 b 1 rib in place of the stockinette for nice stretch. This does fit nicely though.

Here are the directions in my drop box for you to try.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/kifnlkqcx80r1vy/Passap%20Headband%20Directions%20for%20DM80%20%26%20E6000.docx?dl=0

Passap Short Row Lesson for Beginners


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I was getting ready to go make a pair of socks on my sock machine. I went to a Facebook website for sock knitters to refresh my memory and I saw this project. The woman said she just knitted five sock heels and then closed it and made a pin cushion. So , I thought I would let beginners know how to short row on the knitting machine before attempting a pair of socks. This can be done on other machines by just putting needles into hold. On the passap, we work with the pushers to make them knit or hold a stitch and using the LX lock setting.

On my sock machine I have a 72 needle cylinder. The toe and heel are worked on 36 needles. So, I decided to work with the same amount on the passap. I like the size the pin cushion is but if you want to use less needles to make it smaller, by all means, experiment. If you want more definite ridges, short row down more than what I did here. I short rowed to 14 stitches and then back out again.

The great thing about learning from this lesson is that you are only working on the front bed and you can open the beds to hang weights and see everything clearly. I have passap heel weights that are flat and slide in nicely between the beds.They are well worth the investment.

Are you ready to try it? And to get a pin cushion out of your lesson? I used sock yarn at a tension 5 and black pushers.  While you are short rowing pay attention to your stitches. If they look like they are starting to rise up, open the beds and move your weights up. With this many needles you won’t have a big problem but move them up for sure after you short row decrease and after you short  row increase in this exercise. After the first heel is complete, you can take off your cast on comb.

Cast on double bed one row and hang a comb so that it will catch the stitches when you remove the back bed needles to out of work position. If you hang it wrong the comb will fall to the floor. Now knit about 10 rows of waste yarn and then knit one row of ravel cord.

TO SHORT ROW- Put the pushers up on the front bed under all 36 needles. Set lock to GX/LX (GX/BX DM80)and knit 1 row to the left with main yarn. Opposite the locks, put one pusher in non-working position and knit one row to the right and wrap the needle on the lock side which is on your right. See the picture below. Continue putting pushers out of work one by one each row until you have 14 stitches in work in the middle of the bed. Your lock will be on the left. Now opposite the locks, put one pusher on the right of working pushers(needle 8) back into work , knit a row and wrap on the lock side. Continue putting one pusher back into work each row opposite the lock until all 36 stitches are back in work. You have completed one “heel”. I did not knit two rows between the five heels. I just started to short row again. I did five heels. I removed the work on waste yarn and no need for ravel cord. It will unravel since it is the last row knitted. Then turn your work so that the purl side is facing out and start to kitchener stitch the beginning of your work to the end of your work. Pull out the ravel cord and the waste yarn on the beginning. Remove the waste yarn at the end of work. Carefully turn right side out through the hole . Stuff your pin cushion , gather the opening with the end of yarn to close the hole and put a button in the middle. I love birds and used a little whimsical button. Great project to use up left over sock yarn from making socks. The woman who made hers used all different colors for each heel. And……..I can’t find the site I saw this project !!!! I also have to tell you that I have sewn for years and I don’t have a decent pin cushion . So this is for me. 🙂

Update on my trip to the lady’s house that offered the free 18 inch doll patterns . I ended up taking two afghans for her. One was the baby afghan lovely and the other one was  the teddy bear one I made that was posted on my blog. I was glad that I did. She gave me about 110 doll patterns!!! So if you dont’ see me posting for awhile, it is because I am sewing…….or getting back to my sock machine. 🙂

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Passap Crossed Cabled Pillow


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On the web site I mentioned in my last post   woman7.ru  , there is a hand knitted design of crossed cables. When I saw it I thought, I bet I can do it on the machine. So I picked my favorite , the passap ,and tried it. I am sure this could be done on other machines as well.  I thought it would look nice on a pillow to give it texture so off to my machine I went. It took about two days to make this and I wish I had more rows between the crossed cables. Why you ask? Because it took me a long time to do them. hahaha

I had the pillow form so I knitted 160 rows on 120 stitches using 2/24, two strands . There are 120 stitches on the back bed and the only ones in work on the front bed are   L43-47 and L34-38 for the first cable on the left. The middle cable is on L3-7 and R 3-7. The right cable is on R34-38 and R43-47. I crossed the cables every 20 rows starting on row 20 and ending on row 140. There are four needles out of work between each of the cables. The back bed lock is set at N and the front lock is set at LX with pushers in work position under the 30 working cable stitches.

First put the same color of yarn into eyelet two for the cables so you don’t have to break the main yarn. In eyelet 3 I put waste yarn.To do this  technique I knitted to row 20 and put all the pushers out of work on all the cables except the 5 stitches on the right cable. I set the back lock to GX and knitted 20 rows on the five stitches on the front bed. I took them off on waste yarn, put the pushers out of work and put the five pushers back in work under the next five cable stitches. I did this across the row until I had six long pieces of yarn. I then crossed the cables and put them back on the front bed stitches. Then you have to change the back lock back to N to knit the next20 rows and put the pushers back into work on all of the front bed cable stitches.

You can see it in the picture of how it is done .skvoz_uzori4

If you try this, I recommend waste yarn after knitting the 20 rows so that when you knit across on the other cables, the yarns don’t get tangled under the bed. Also, I put a piece of ravel cord with a bodkin tied to each end to give it weight so I could pass it between the beds and over the five cable stitches to pull on them gently when knitting so the stitches did not bunch up. I had to open the beds a couple of times to move the ravel cord down so it was gently pulling all of the stitches. When you put the stitches back on the needles , make sure the purl side is facing away from the machine.

I hope you try this just to learn the technique and the machine. When I started I cast on a sample of 40 stitches on both beds. I did a circular cast on and then transferred all the stitches to the back bed except the stitches for the middle cable.

By the way, I added a yellow star to the tops of my trees on my four mug rugs. I like them even better now. 🙂dscf3356

Passap Thanksgiving Placemat for Turkey


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Okay, I am sorry it took so long to get this posted. I had been working on it but then other issues came up and I had to put this on the back burner. I wanted one for my turkey so I finally finished it and knitted it. This size is 95 stitches by 55 rows. Total rows 330. Technique 197. Finished size is 13.5 inches wide and 11 inches long. I did change my main tension to 4 from 3and two dots. I was discussing the bind off with a knitter friend of mine and she asked if I finished it using the kitchener stitch. DUH! I never thought of that. So that is what I did and I like the finished edge better than the latch tool. Yes, it took longer to do it but I think it is much better. So that is my way of finishing mug rugs and mats from now on. To finish it I knitted 330 rows. Then I set the locks to N/N and knitted one row of color one at the same tension I used for the mat. Then I took it off using waste yarn and circular settings (CX/CX)with a good contrasting yarn. The colors are beige, brown and orange and I used two strands each of 2/24. Here is the link to my drop box, I put the file of the design in bmp and stp format. The stp file is urkey.stp       lol   I guess I was in a hurry and missed the t in turkey.

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/9ras1aqz7m95ww8/AABvdJimAWDFJqunFPIO35l-a?dl=0

 

In the lettering it looks like a mistake on the letter “a” but that is from a letter graph that I used. Feel free to go in and change it if you don’t like it.  Please do not sell this pattern as your own.

I would like to wish all of my followers a very Happy Thanksgiving!  🙂

Passap Halloween Mug Rugs


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I made some mug rug designs in case you don’t want to do the larger placemats. I love these because I can just throw them in the washing machine if they get dirty and they don’t take any space to store until the next year.

Note: In my place mat instructions I did not mention at the end to latch tool bind off the stitches that are on waste yarn starting at the end without the yarn tail. I was assuming everyone would know how to do this.

You can find the instructions in my drop box link.

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/776mzn2ch7wvzyi/AAANC08RRuAv_3ofx2KFB7jHa?dl=0

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