Archive for knitting idea

Passap Knitted Owl Puffs by Jenna Krupar


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I saw the free pattern for  hand knitted owl puffs by Jenna Krupar awhile back and I just came across it in my downloads. I decided to convert it to machine knitting and add a little stuffed owl to the baby  blanket I just made . The hand written instructions start at the bottom and work up. Then the top stitches are kitchener stitched after lightly stuffing it. On the knitting machine it is easier and faster to decrease so I started at the top. I did a row of N/N for cast on and knit circular for 15 rows. I knitted one row of ravel for removing the waste yarn easily. Then I knitted the face and the body the same amount of rows as the pattern and then decreased on designated rows. I decreased evenly and moved the stitches in. It took awhile doing it that way. When I finished I had a teeny weeny owl! lol He is 2 inches by 2 inches. Well, he can be a package tie.

So I went back to the machine and doubled the stitches and rows. I decreased 12 stitches instead of 6 like I did on the small one. I sewed on the eyes since the top of the eye was purple and you can’t see the thread behind it. I think they are cute. If you would like the instructions for the larger one, just email me. I was able to photograph  the right color pink but not the purple this time!

Passap Creative Slip and Tuck


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My friend Jacqui and I were discussing the Passap Knitting Machine and what it can do. She told me that there was an article in KnitWords Magazine #1, 1997 Summer on knitting two motifs side by side and one motif was slip stitch and one motif was tuck. The article is written by Katherine Geiger and she sounds just like me. She was so excited figuring this out and seeing what this Passap 6000 can do!
I just had to try this. In the article Katherine has a design that she made . I put it into win/crea and downloaded it. This is sample 1. The diamonds are tuck and the zig zag is slip.
How unique is that? The technique used is 129 (or 179)and when it says to change to KX, ignore the console and put UX setting on front lock.
The OX and UX settings slip and tuck in different directions. So when she made her pattern she starts the pattern that she wants to slip on the odd numbered lines and tuck motifs on even numbered lines with a blank row in-between each row of each of the designs. What happens is that when one motif tucks, the slip motif is inactive. When the slip motif is active the tuck motif is inactive. It was fun to watch while knitting. You use one color and when you knit row one you will only see needles selected for motif one. After knitting row 1, the needles selected are motif 2. Then when you knit the next two rows, you will see motif 1 and then motif two. The pushers must be in work under all the front bed needles.
Katherine then suggests using a technique in the manual from 1000 to 1034. Pick your pattern and use technique 149. Ignore the console and use UX. Knitting with these settings gives you a fabric that she calls Loopy Lace. The stitch formation is such that it is being slipped first and then tucked giving a more pronounced look to the pattern. I used the same technique but used two different patterns to see how they each looked.
In the fourth sample she suggests using OX and the fabric looks so similar to fine lace knitted on the Japanese machines. The great thing is you don’t have to use a lace carriage, you just put in black strippers and knit away!
In sample 2, I picked pattern 1032 and technique 149 and UX
In sample 3 I picked pattern 1028 and technique 149 and UX.
In sample 4 I used pattern 1028 and technique 149 and OX
These samples are all knitted single bed.
I hope you try it. I think the one fabric sort of looks like garter stitch that the Brother G carriage knits. If you want more detailed information on how to do this, just email me.

Passap Vertical Band for a Sweater or Jacket


I am still learning new things on my passap and I have had it for quite awhile. I just tried something I saw in a book that I have. It is knitting a vertical band while knitting the sweater so you don’t have to go back and attach a band. Well, that’s not new you say. I didn’t think so either until I read the directions. When I finished the dark blue one I liked the look. I also noticed it did not curl in . I gently steamed it and it hangs nicely. I think it would be really nice on a formal jacket knitted plain. I would not do as deep a hem or I wouldn’t do a hem at all and just start with the side band . This is simple to do and I hope you try it.
The hem tension was 4 (2 strands of 2/24)Cast on any number of stitches using the N/N row (2..), 2 rows CX/CX (3)and one N/N(4) row. Knit the number of rows you want for a hem. Then transfer all of the stitches on the front bed to the back bed EXCEPT the last five on the right.
Set the front lock to CX and tension 6 and the back lock to N at tension 5. Put in black strippers. Gently weight the five end stitches. With the front lock setting on CX it stretches the stitch a little so it is noticeable and you only knit one row on that front bed for every two rows of knitting. Incidentally, you don’t need front or back bed pushers.I went back and did another sample leaving only 2 stitches on the end instead of 5 and liked it even better. Even the purl side looks good and the edge stands out even more. Notice in the pictures how the border does not show until you transfer the stitches and set the front lock to CX.

I wanted to see how this would look as a design so I just went back and knitted the same thing using 60 stitches .I set up 2 stitches working on the front bed with four empty needles between them. It reminds me of a tuck stitch but if a mistake is made this is so simple to correct. You don’t have to use the console and ripping back would be fast. Notice on one edge I have the 2 stitch border and for the hem I knitted four rows before transferring the stitches to the back bed.

Passap Afghan of Many Techniques


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Bet you thought you were going to see another large afghan. Well this strip of techniques was the length of an afghan . I knitted techniques 180 to 191 . I knitted 21 rows for each technique and that came to 84 knitted rows . I used 60 stitches, the same pattern, same tension, same amount of rows. I typed up the techniques, put in the settings and pusher information. I laminated the information and attached with a yarn that is strong like ravel cord so they won’t come off. I am doing this for a friend that I am helping with the E6000.  This shows her the backs and the sizes when she chooses an afghan. I made an afghan using the Fairisle Fantasy but she wanted it in a lap blanket so we looked at the strip and chose a different technique. It came out perfect for her but we also shortened the pattern as well.

I learned several things doing this. My arm is killing me. Hahahaha, just kidding. First, I love this machine. Lol  Second, it took me longer to do than an afghan since you have to reprogram every technique and set the pushers on the back bed in or out of the rail. You can see the widest one and it is technique 186 which is the fantasy fairisle. What surprises me is that you don’t see , or I should say, I don’t see many afghans made using the last four techniques 188-191. You have to change the back lock every two rows on a couple of them but it is not confusing. The console tells you when to change. Techniques 188 to 191 are closer in width to the fantasy fairisle . Also notice that the technique 181 has a solid back. I also knitted technique 185 for the first time which is the long stitch or summer fairisle and I like it. It is amazing how one pattern can look so different in every one of the techniques. This also gives you an idea of distortion using different techniques.

Also, I have two little cutters on my other knitting machine carriages for cutting the yarn . They are great and I don’t have to pick up a pair of scissors. I bought these years ago for a dollar and have not found them since. A couple of weeks ago I went to a sewing expo in Cleveland and I found this( I should say my friend found it) . It was $7.95 and I have it mounted on top of my passap lock. It is not as nice as my cheapie but it sure does the trick for cutting my yarn. 🙂 It has a self stick backing.

Passap Zig Zags by Irene Krueger


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This is the first sample I wanted to make but had to do the other diamond to get the idea into my head of what is being done. This turned out to be easier than the diamond within the diamond. I only had to do this twice . BUT….. after I steamed this out it hit me what Irene Krieger meant when she said you have to remember which needle is your first (or pivot) hole. If you saw my whole swatch sample you would see that the first zig on the left had 10 holes and the second zag on the right had 8. That is because you don’t count the pivot needle.So I will go back and do another sample and write down the directions.

I can see this design going up the middle of a sweater . I can also see it  made much wider . I can also see it going up the middle of a sleeve. The only thing that detracts from the design is my choice of yarn. I just used a 315 scrap yarn. This would look nice in Tepeyac, Diamonte or Estillo or any dress yarn that is finer.

Passap Diamond Within A Diamond


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I was reading an article called Queen of Diamonds by Irene Krieger in Machine Knitting News magazine August 2002 . I looked at this diamond and thought , that’s too easy so lets do the one design next to it. I could not grasp how to do the design I wanted to do  and thought I better try the  “easy” diamond design first to see if it would turn on the light bulb in my brain. OMG!!! The article just tells you how she added texture and some of what she did to arrive at the design. She does not give needle set up or what needles go  on the front or back bed. I sort of assumed it was done on a standard machine but had to try the passap because I love it. (Did I ever mention that? lol)It took me three times before I finally got it. I think it would take me even longer  to  write out the instructions !! haha

You start out doing the eyelet transfer on the front bed. When you move L1  needle to L2 on the same bed, you then bring one needle into work on the back bed opposite the hole.(racking handle up) Then knit four rows. On the next row you take the stitches on either side of the first eyelet(L2, R1) on the front bed and put them on the stitch next to them (L2 to L3 and R1 to R2). Then you pull needles on the back bed forward into the empty spaces. You continue until there are nine needles on the back bed. This is the purl area around the middle “knitted” diamond. Then the fun begins!!! While you are moving the end stitches out on the front bed for the big diamond, now you will start the middle diamond  by moving those stitches to the front bed! Sound confusing? It was and is. My sample is larger because I went wider with the diamond .(And yes, it was a mistake)

The reason that I like this design is because the rest of the garment would be in knit and that is a lot easier sewing the side seams than if it were the purl side. I probably won’t make anything using this design but did you ever wonder how something was done and just had to try it? I know a lot of you can think outside of the box and could come up with lots of ideas where to use this.

Now, I have to go try the design next to this one that I wanted to start with first  and see if I can figure it out after doing this “easy” one. Hah

If enough of you want me to write the instructions on this, I will do it. Just let me know. 🙂

Passap Crossed Cabled Pillow


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On the web site I mentioned in my last post   woman7.ru  , there is a hand knitted design of crossed cables. When I saw it I thought, I bet I can do it on the machine. So I picked my favorite , the passap ,and tried it. I am sure this could be done on other machines as well.  I thought it would look nice on a pillow to give it texture so off to my machine I went. It took about two days to make this and I wish I had more rows between the crossed cables. Why you ask? Because it took me a long time to do them. hahaha

I had the pillow form so I knitted 160 rows on 120 stitches using 2/24, two strands . There are 120 stitches on the back bed and the only ones in work on the front bed are   L43-47 and L34-38 for the first cable on the left. The middle cable is on L3-7 and R 3-7. The right cable is on R34-38 and R43-47. I crossed the cables every 20 rows starting on row 20 and ending on row 140. There are four needles out of work between each of the cables. The back bed lock is set at N and the front lock is set at LX with pushers in work position under the 30 working cable stitches.

First put the same color of yarn into eyelet two for the cables so you don’t have to break the main yarn. In eyelet 3 I put waste yarn.To do this  technique I knitted to row 20 and put all the pushers out of work on all the cables except the 5 stitches on the right cable. I set the back lock to GX and knitted 20 rows on the five stitches on the front bed. I took them off on waste yarn, put the pushers out of work and put the five pushers back in work under the next five cable stitches. I did this across the row until I had six long pieces of yarn. I then crossed the cables and put them back on the front bed stitches. Then you have to change the back lock back to N to knit the next20 rows and put the pushers back into work on all of the front bed cable stitches.

You can see it in the picture of how it is done .skvoz_uzori4

If you try this, I recommend waste yarn after knitting the 20 rows so that when you knit across on the other cables, the yarns don’t get tangled under the bed. Also, I put a piece of ravel cord with a bodkin tied to each end to give it weight so I could pass it between the beds and over the five cable stitches to pull on them gently when knitting so the stitches did not bunch up. I had to open the beds a couple of times to move the ravel cord down so it was gently pulling all of the stitches. When you put the stitches back on the needles , make sure the purl side is facing away from the machine.

I hope you try this just to learn the technique and the machine. When I started I cast on a sample of 40 stitches on both beds. I did a circular cast on and then transferred all the stitches to the back bed except the stitches for the middle cable.

By the way, I added a yellow star to the tops of my trees on my four mug rugs. I like them even better now. 🙂dscf3356

Passap Christmas Tree Mug Rug


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Okay, I know you are getting tired of my mug rugs but just had to share this one since I like it so much. I found the tree on a site and added the rest to make this .

I just made four for my guests on Christmas day so they can put their drinks on them.

At first I thought the site I found the design on  was a blog page but when I downloaded a translation app, it looks like it is a site for women. You MUST visit this site. It has the most beautiful knitted sweaters and designs. If you go on the home page, at the top knitting is under the home tab. Also look at the other tabs. There are designs for mug rugs. I don’t see any information on buying anything so still not sure what the site is for. I just made four for my guests on Christmas day so they can put their drinks on them.

Here is the link. Make sure you scroll all the way down the page to see all the beautiful items.

http://woman7.ru/rukol/uzori-spicami/1616-novogodnie-motivi-spicami.html

My mug rug is 39 stitches by 31 rows. 3 colors. 2 strands of 2/24 yarn. Technique 197. I had red as color one, green as color 2 and white as third eyelet color. I did cast on in red. N/N row was 1…/1…, two rows of CX/CX tension 2../2.. and last row of N/N and mug rug tension 3../3.. To finish, I just knitted two rows of N/N at same tension of 3../3.. and then took off with waste yarn knitting circular. I kitchener stitched to finish. To set up, use L19-R20.

When you finish the cast on and start to knit the first row, the end two pushers should be in the up position . If they are, the pattern is centered. In the pattern you will notice that row one has one red stitch on each end.

I have the files in my drop box at this link. You will see two stp files. One file has two e’s in name and one has one e in name. There are two designs for you. There is one bmp file for win/crea users.

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/fdt66f97qwauwzo/AAD7vXTM4eHqkKfO-0TbP_E9a?dl=0

 

 

 

Passap Thanksgiving Placemat for Turkey


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Okay, I am sorry it took so long to get this posted. I had been working on it but then other issues came up and I had to put this on the back burner. I wanted one for my turkey so I finally finished it and knitted it. This size is 95 stitches by 55 rows. Total rows 330. Technique 197. Finished size is 13.5 inches wide and 11 inches long. I did change my main tension to 4 from 3and two dots. I was discussing the bind off with a knitter friend of mine and she asked if I finished it using the kitchener stitch. DUH! I never thought of that. So that is what I did and I like the finished edge better than the latch tool. Yes, it took longer to do it but I think it is much better. So that is my way of finishing mug rugs and mats from now on. To finish it I knitted 330 rows. Then I set the locks to N/N and knitted one row of color one at the same tension I used for the mat. Then I took it off using waste yarn and circular settings (CX/CX)with a good contrasting yarn. The colors are beige, brown and orange and I used two strands each of 2/24. Here is the link to my drop box, I put the file of the design in bmp and stp format. The stp file is urkey.stp       lol   I guess I was in a hurry and missed the t in turkey.

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/9ras1aqz7m95ww8/AABvdJimAWDFJqunFPIO35l-a?dl=0

 

In the lettering it looks like a mistake on the letter “a” but that is from a letter graph that I used. Feel free to go in and change it if you don’t like it.  Please do not sell this pattern as your own.

I would like to wish all of my followers a very Happy Thanksgiving!  🙂

Passap Halloween Mug Rugs


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I made some mug rug designs in case you don’t want to do the larger placemats. I love these because I can just throw them in the washing machine if they get dirty and they don’t take any space to store until the next year.

Note: In my place mat instructions I did not mention at the end to latch tool bind off the stitches that are on waste yarn starting at the end without the yarn tail. I was assuming everyone would know how to do this.

You can find the instructions in my drop box link.

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/776mzn2ch7wvzyi/AAANC08RRuAv_3ofx2KFB7jHa?dl=0

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