Archive for knitting idea

Passap Cut and Sew Neckline


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Tina, this posting is for you. ūüôā
Tina asked me if I all of my work was cut and sew(necklines)
I told her that I did knit one sweater and divided the work at the neck and finished each side. Would I do it again? Absolutely not. I am a definite believer in cut and sew for passap double bed work.
I used the side of a scarf that I started and did not like so you will see the stitches going sideways. lol Ladies, get your tension swatches out and lets try this technique.

Most of my sweaters I made were finished with the following technique that I will share with you. I just know it as the sandwich neckline. I believe it might also be called the commercial neckline. I have had this information for over 30 years so it has been around.
I read somewhere that a neckline will make or break a sweater and I believe that to be true. You can also add button and buttonhole bands and cuffs using this sandwich technique. I did this on a blue diamonte sweater that was posted on my blog.

The first step is to just knit the front of your sweater straight up from the armholes. Then take the shoulders off on separate pieces of waste yarn. Then take the middle neck stitches off on waste yarn. You will join one shoulder and then figure the number of stitches for your ribbing.

You can make neck templates from cardboard by using your favorite sweaters to see how much of a drop you like. I don’t like ribbing that chokes me so my templates are around 3 inches with a two inch tall ribbing. I also like the look of a 2 by 2 rib and you get more stretch so it is not too tight going over your head.
My sample is a 1 by 1. The ribbing is double so if you want a one inch ribbing and your gauge is 12 rows to one inch, you would knit 24 rows. My sample is 22 rows.

I always do tension swatches and launder the fabric and wait a day before knitting.
That way I know how many shoulder and neck stitches I will have to take off separately on waste yarn.
When I knit the back of my sweater I do a one inch drop. I do the same as for the front neckline but just make a straight line one inch from edge and angle the line up to the shoulders. When you see how the front is done this will make sense to you.

I have pictures showing you how I do this along with some more instructions in the drop box link below.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/mm6dk3z2ac0yqtm/Finishing%20a%20neckline%20using%20the%20back%20stitch%20by%20hand.pdf?dl=0

 

 

My next posting will be the cut and sew without the sandwich. I have added a pdf file with both of these instructions if you want to try them . I also have a sheet that explains the procedure in detail. If you have any problems or questions, feel free to email me. Hope you try it!
Happy Knitting!

Passap E600 Christmas Knitted Key Fob


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Measures 14 inches total length

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Sorry I have not been knitting. I went off into a sewing tangent. lol ¬†I made a quilted Christmas tree skirt so that I won’t be rushing to do it in the last few weeks before Christmas . ¬†I finished a large autumn table quilt also. My latest project was mug rugs and key fobs. When I made the key fob I ¬†thought, okay, this could be knitted also. This took about 15 minutes to make. The snowflake is the first one I did. I have a picture of the snowflake you would enter into your knitting program for downloading. Then I went and looked in the pattern book and there are many designs to choose from. More on that later.

First I found a small snowflake design . I knew I could not have many stitches to make a one inch width. I looked at my knitted strip of all the techniques that I have and technique 184(long stitch) looked the best for less distortion. Both end needles will be on the front bed. ¬†I cast on ¬†9 stitches (fb) and 8 stitches (bb) double bed with 2 strands of 2/24 at tension 1../1.. I hung a small comb and two weights….yes, two green weights! I used 2../2.. for CX rows. Then tension 3 for last N/N row and for the main tension. I knit 8 rows of solid red before downloading and knitting the pattern . ¬†I knitted on needles 60 R and 68 R so that my work was close to the color changer. I knitted 392 rows . (total of 14 inches)I turned off console and knitted 8 rows of red to finish. I took off on waste yarn and kitchener stitched the top so I would not have a lot of bulk to go inside of the metal clamp. I also had my mast tension on 5.5 for number one and 6.5 for number 2. Since all machines are different, if the eyelet pops out of the holder while working, your mast is too tight. lol Then I just put the two ends into the metal clamp and closed .

If you don’t want to do the snowflake design, just look in your stitch book for small designs that are the width of the band(9 stitches) For example, pattern 1126 is the design in the top picture of the key fob. It was 7 stitches wide and 7 rows. I entered the design in win/crea and added two columns, one on each side. ¬†If you want to do pattern 1304, you only have to add one blank column since there is one blank column in the pattern. You can even go to 10 stitches wide and be safe it will fit in the metal closure.

Also, if you don’t want to buy the metal one , you can start this on waste yarn and end on waste yarn. Before joining , put in a key ring circle. Then graft your stitches and sew a line just below the ring through both thicknesses so that the circle is closed. Okay, now back to sewing. hahaha

Passap Needle Selectors and a Passap Polka Dot Rib


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Oh, my gosh. Tyler from Herman HillsFarms in Ohio  sent me some needle selectors, yarn bowls and some yarn guides to try. Thank you , thank you! AND THANK YOU!!!

He sent a 1 X 1, a 2 X 1 and a 2 X 2 needle selector , two yarn bowls and two yarn guides . I love all of them. The yarn guides have two open areas so you can lead up 2 yarns . It certainly keeps things from getting tangled.
I wanted to try the yarn guides, bowls and the selectors so I decided to see if I could figure out how to do the polka dot rib on the passap. I have the directions for doing it on the Brother.Can’t find them at the moment though. lol

I started with the purple 1 X 1 needle selector for a 1 by 1 rib. This polka dot rib is really simple to do and I found two ways of doing it. The way I am describing is the easiest and the fastest.

Set up for 1 by 1 rib with needle selector. Bring 60 needles forward on bb. Push every other needle out of work. Set racking handle to up position. Select needles in between the back bed needles on the front bed and bring into work. Do cast on of your choice. I used the broken toe cast on. After cast on set the locks to N/N and knit two rows of main color.
Next I took the blue 2 X 2 needle selector and brought up pushers under every other needle on the front bed that is in working position.  Set the front lock to LX and the back lock to N.  Knit 2 rows of contrast color. Set locks to N/N and knit 4 rows of main color.  Repeat these six rows for pattern changing the locks between the main color knitted rows and the contrast rows.

I am also thrilled to learn that Tyler is not only making passap yarn bowls but he is working on ¬†covers with holes in them for the yarn to come through and to keep the ball from popping out of the bowl. The yarn bowls are available already and are very high quality. We all know how the little balls of yarn flop out of the bowls onto the floor when the ball gets smaller. I have tried several ways of preventing this and the yarn ball still flops around and out of the bowl. ¬†Can’t wait to try those too. I will let you know when the covers are available.

Here is the link to the passap items  available from Herman Hills Farm.

https://www.etsy.com/shop/HermanHillsFarm?ref=l2-shopheader-name&section_id=21934827

 

 

Passap Knitted Owl Puffs by Jenna Krupar


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I saw the free pattern for  hand knitted owl puffs by Jenna Krupar awhile back and I just came across it in my downloads. I decided to convert it to machine knitting and add a little stuffed owl to the baby  blanket I just made . The hand written instructions start at the bottom and work up. Then the top stitches are kitchener stitched after lightly stuffing it. On the knitting machine it is easier and faster to decrease so I started at the top. I did a row of N/N for cast on and knit circular for 15 rows. I knitted one row of ravel for removing the waste yarn easily. Then I knitted the face and the body the same amount of rows as the pattern and then decreased on designated rows. I decreased evenly and moved the stitches in. It took awhile doing it that way. When I finished I had a teeny weeny owl! lol He is 2 inches by 2 inches. Well, he can be a package tie.

So I went back to the machine and doubled the stitches and rows. I decreased 12 stitches instead of 6 like I did on the small one. I sewed on the eyes since the top of the eye was purple and you can’t see the thread behind it. I think they are cute. If you would like the instructions for the larger one, just email me. I was able to photograph ¬†the right color pink but not the purple this time!

Passap Creative Slip and Tuck


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My friend Jacqui and I were discussing the Passap Knitting Machine and what it can do. She told me that there was an article in KnitWords Magazine #1, 1997 Summer on knitting two motifs side by side and one motif was slip stitch and one motif was tuck. The article is written by Katherine Geiger and she sounds just like me. She was so excited figuring this out and seeing what this Passap 6000 can do!
I just had to try this. In the article Katherine has a design that she made . I put it into win/crea and downloaded it. This is sample 1. The diamonds are tuck and the zig zag is slip.
How unique is that? The technique used is 129 (or 179)and when it says to change to KX, ignore the console and put UX setting on front lock.
The OX and UX settings slip and tuck in different directions. So when she made her pattern she starts the pattern that she wants to slip on the odd numbered lines and tuck motifs on even numbered lines with a blank row in-between each row of each of the designs. What happens is that when one motif tucks, the slip motif is inactive. When the slip motif is active the tuck motif is inactive. It was fun to watch while knitting. You use one color and when you knit row one you will only see needles selected for motif one. After knitting row 1, the needles selected are motif 2. Then when you knit the next two rows, you will see motif 1 and then motif two. The pushers must be in work under all the front bed needles.
Katherine then suggests using a technique in the manual from 1000 to 1034. Pick your pattern and use technique 149. Ignore the console and use UX. Knitting with these settings gives you a fabric that she calls Loopy Lace. The stitch formation is such that it is being slipped first and then tucked giving a more pronounced look to the pattern. I used the same technique but used two different patterns to see how they each looked.
In the fourth sample she suggests using OX and the fabric looks so similar to fine lace knitted on the Japanese machines. The great thing is you don’t have to use a lace carriage, you just put in black strippers and knit away!
In sample 2, I picked pattern 1032 and technique 149 and UX
In sample 3 I picked pattern 1028 and technique 149 and UX.
In sample 4 I used pattern 1028 and technique 149 and OX
These samples are all knitted single bed.
I hope you try it. I think the one fabric sort of looks like garter stitch that the Brother G carriage knits. If you want more detailed information on how to do this, just email me.

Passap Vertical Band for a Sweater or Jacket


I am still learning new things on my passap and I have had it for quite awhile. I just tried something I saw in a book that I have. It is knitting a vertical band while knitting the sweater so you don’t have to go back and attach a band. Well, that’s not new you say. I didn’t think so either until I read the directions. When I finished the dark blue one I liked the look. I also noticed it did not curl in . I gently steamed it and it hangs nicely. I think it would be really nice on a formal jacket knitted plain. I would not do as deep a hem or I wouldn’t do a hem at all and just start with the side band . This is simple to do and I hope you try it.
The hem tension was 4 (2 strands of 2/24)Cast on any number of stitches using the N/N row (2..), 2 rows CX/CX (3)and one N/N(4) row. Knit the number of rows you want for a hem. Then transfer all of the stitches on the front bed to the back bed EXCEPT the last five on the right.
Set the front lock to CX and tension 6 and the back lock to N at tension 5. Put in black strippers. Gently weight the five end stitches. With the front lock setting on CX it stretches the stitch a little so it is noticeable and you only knit one row on that front bed for every two rows of knitting. Incidentally, you don’t need front or back bed pushers.I went back and did another sample leaving only 2 stitches on the end instead of 5 and liked it even better. Even the purl side looks good and the edge stands out even more. Notice in the pictures how the border does not show until you transfer the stitches and set the front lock to CX.

I wanted to see how this would look as a design so I just went back and knitted the same thing using 60 stitches .I set up¬†2 stitches working on the front bed with four empty needles between them. It reminds me of a tuck stitch but if a mistake is made this is so simple to correct. You don’t have to use the console and ripping back would be fast. Notice on one edge I have the 2 stitch border and for the hem I knitted four rows before transferring the stitches to the back bed.

Passap Afghan of Many Techniques


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Bet you thought you were going to see another large afghan. Well this strip of techniques was the length of an afghan . I knitted techniques 180 to 191 . I knitted 21 rows for¬†each technique and that came to 84 knitted rows . I used 60 stitches, the same pattern, same tension, same amount of rows. I typed up the techniques, put in the settings and pusher information. I laminated the information and attached with a yarn that is strong like ravel cord so they won’t come off. I am doing this for¬†a friend that I am helping with the E6000. ¬†This shows her the backs and the sizes when she chooses an afghan. I made an afghan using the Fairisle Fantasy but she wanted it in a lap blanket so we looked at the strip and chose a different technique. It came out perfect for her but we also shortened the pattern as well.

I learned several things doing this. My arm is killing me. Hahahaha, just kidding. First, I love this machine. Lol ¬†Second, it took me longer to do than an afghan since you have to reprogram every technique and set the pushers on the back bed in or out of the rail. You can see the widest one and it is technique 186 which is the fantasy fairisle. What surprises me is that you don’t see , or I should say, I don’t see many afghans made using the last four techniques 188-191. You have to change the back lock every two rows on a couple of them but it is not confusing. The console tells you when to change. Techniques 188 to 191¬†are closer in width to the fantasy fairisle . Also notice that the technique 181 has a solid back. I also knitted technique 185 for the first time which is the long stitch or summer fairisle and I like it. It is amazing how one pattern can look so different in every one of the techniques. This also gives you an idea of distortion using different techniques.

Also, I have two little cutters on my other knitting machine carriages for cutting the yarn . They are great and I don’t have¬†to pick up a pair of scissors. I¬†bought these years ago for a dollar and have not found them¬†since. A couple of weeks ago I went to a sewing expo in Cleveland and I found this( I should say my friend found it) . It was $7.95 and I have it mounted on top of my passap lock. It is not as nice as my cheapie but it sure does the trick for cutting my yarn. ūüôā It has a self stick backing.

Passap Zig Zags by Irene Krueger


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This is the first sample I wanted to make but had to do the other diamond to get the idea into my head of what is being done. This turned out to be easier than the diamond within the diamond. I only had to do this twice . BUT….. after I steamed this out it hit me what¬†Irene¬†Krieger¬†meant when she said you have to remember which needle is your¬†first (or pivot) hole. If you saw my whole swatch sample you would see that the first zig on the left had 10 holes and the second zag on the right had 8. That is because you don’t count the pivot needle.So I will go back and do another sample and write down the directions.

I can see this design going up the middle of a sweater . I can also see it  made much wider . I can also see it going up the middle of a sleeve. The only thing that detracts from the design is my choice of yarn. I just used a 315 scrap yarn. This would look nice in Tepeyac, Diamonte or Estillo or any dress yarn that is finer.

Passap Diamond Within A Diamond


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I was reading an article called Queen of Diamonds by Irene Krieger in Machine Knitting News magazine August 2002 . I looked at this diamond and thought , that’s too easy¬†so¬†lets do the one design next to it. I¬†could not grasp how to do the design I wanted to do¬†¬†and thought I¬†better try the¬†¬†“easy” diamond design first to see if it would turn on the light bulb in my brain. OMG!!! The article just tells you how she added texture and some of what she did to arrive at the design. She does not give needle set up or what needles go¬†¬†on the front or back bed. I sort of assumed it was done on a standard machine but had to try the passap because I love it. (Did I ever mention that? lol)It took me three times before¬†I finally got it. I think it would take me even longer¬†¬†to¬† write out the instructions !! haha

You start out doing the eyelet transfer¬†on the front bed. When you move L1 ¬†needle to L2¬†on the same bed, you then bring one needle into work on the back¬†bed opposite the hole.(racking handle up) Then knit four rows. On the next row you take the stitches on either side of the first eyelet(L2, R1) on the front bed and put them on the stitch next to them (L2 to L3 and R1 to R2). Then you pull needles on the back bed forward into the empty spaces. You continue until there are nine needles on the back bed. This is the purl area around the middle “knitted” diamond. Then the fun begins!!! While you are moving the end stitches out on the front bed for the big diamond, now you will start the middle¬†diamond ¬†by moving those stitches to the front bed! Sound confusing? It was and is. My sample is larger because I went wider with the diamond¬†.(And yes, it was a mistake)

The reason that I like this design is because the rest of the garment would be in knit and that is a lot easier sewing the side seams than if it were the purl side. I probably won’t make anything using this design but did you ever wonder how something was done and just had to try it? I know a lot of you can think outside of the box and could come up with lots of ideas where to use this.

Now, I have to go try the design next to this one that I wanted to start with first ¬†and see if I can figure it out¬†after doing this “easy” one. Hah

If enough of you want me to write the instructions on this, I will do it. Just let me know. ūüôā

Passap Crossed Cabled Pillow


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On the web site I mentioned in my last post   woman7.ru  , there is a hand knitted design of crossed cables. When I saw it I thought, I bet I can do it on the machine. So I picked my favorite , the passap ,and tried it. I am sure this could be done on other machines as well.  I thought it would look nice on a pillow to give it texture so off to my machine I went. It took about two days to make this and I wish I had more rows between the crossed cables. Why you ask? Because it took me a long time to do them. hahaha

I had the pillow form so I knitted 160 rows on 120 stitches using 2/24, two strands . There are 120 stitches on the back bed and the only ones in work on the front bed are   L43-47 and L34-38 for the first cable on the left. The middle cable is on L3-7 and R 3-7. The right cable is on R34-38 and R43-47. I crossed the cables every 20 rows starting on row 20 and ending on row 140. There are four needles out of work between each of the cables. The back bed lock is set at N and the front lock is set at LX with pushers in work position under the 30 working cable stitches.

First put the same color of yarn into eyelet two for the cables so you don’t have to break the main yarn. In eyelet 3 I put waste yarn.To do this ¬†technique I knitted to row 20 and put all the pushers out of work on all the cables except the 5 stitches on the right cable. I set the back lock to GX and knitted 20 rows on the five stitches on the front bed. I took them off on waste yarn, put the pushers out of work and put the five pushers back in work under the next five cable stitches. I did this across the row until I had six long pieces of yarn. I then crossed the cables and put them back on the front bed stitches. Then you have to change the back lock back to N to knit the next20 rows and put the pushers back into work on all of the front bed cable stitches.

You can see it in the picture of how it is done .skvoz_uzori4

If you try this, I recommend waste yarn after knitting the 20 rows so that when you knit across on the other cables, the yarns don’t get tangled under the bed. Also, I put a piece of ravel cord with a bodkin tied to each end to give it weight so I could pass it between the beds and over the five cable stitches to pull on them gently when knitting so the stitches did not bunch up. I had to open the beds a couple of times to move the ravel cord down so it was gently pulling all of the stitches. When you put the stitches back on the needles , make sure the purl side is facing away from the machine.

I hope you try this just to learn the technique and the machine. When I started I cast on a sample of 40 stitches on both beds. I did a circular cast on and then transferred all the stitches to the back bed except the stitches for the middle cable.

By the way, I added a yellow star to the tops of my trees on my four mug rugs. I like them even better now. ūüôādscf3356

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