Archive for knitting idea

Passap Afghan of Many Techniques


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Bet you thought you were going to see another large afghan. Well this strip of techniques was the length of an afghan . I knitted techniques 180 to 191 . I knitted 21 rows for each technique and that came to 84 knitted rows . I used 60 stitches, the same pattern, same tension, same amount of rows. I typed up the techniques, put in the settings and pusher information. I laminated the information and attached with a yarn that is strong like ravel cord so they won’t come off. I am doing this for a friend that I am helping with the E6000.  This shows her the backs and the sizes when she chooses an afghan. I made an afghan using the Fairisle Fantasy but she wanted it in a lap blanket so we looked at the strip and chose a different technique. It came out perfect for her but we also shortened the pattern as well.

I learned several things doing this. My arm is killing me. Hahahaha, just kidding. First, I love this machine. Lol  Second, it took me longer to do than an afghan since you have to reprogram every technique and set the pushers on the back bed in or out of the rail. You can see the widest one and it is technique 186 which is the fantasy fairisle. What surprises me is that you don’t see , or I should say, I don’t see many afghans made using the last four techniques 188-191. You have to change the back lock every two rows on a couple of them but it is not confusing. The console tells you when to change. Techniques 188 to 191 are closer in width to the fantasy fairisle . Also notice that the technique 181 has a solid back. I also knitted technique 185 for the first time which is the long stitch or summer fairisle and I like it. It is amazing how one pattern can look so different in every one of the techniques. This also gives you an idea of distortion using different techniques.

Also, I have two little cutters on my other knitting machine carriages for cutting the yarn . They are great and I don’t have to pick up a pair of scissors. I bought these years ago for a dollar and have not found them since. A couple of weeks ago I went to a sewing expo in Cleveland and I found this( I should say my friend found it) . It was $7.95 and I have it mounted on top of my passap lock. It is not as nice as my cheapie but it sure does the trick for cutting my yarn. 🙂 It has a self stick backing.

Passap Zig Zags by Irene Krueger


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This is the first sample I wanted to make but had to do the other diamond to get the idea into my head of what is being done. This turned out to be easier than the diamond within the diamond. I only had to do this twice . BUT….. after I steamed this out it hit me what Irene Krieger meant when she said you have to remember which needle is your first (or pivot) hole. If you saw my whole swatch sample you would see that the first zig on the left had 10 holes and the second zag on the right had 8. That is because you don’t count the pivot needle.So I will go back and do another sample and write down the directions.

I can see this design going up the middle of a sweater . I can also see it  made much wider . I can also see it going up the middle of a sleeve. The only thing that detracts from the design is my choice of yarn. I just used a 315 scrap yarn. This would look nice in Tepeyac, Diamonte or Estillo or any dress yarn that is finer.

Passap Diamond Within A Diamond


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I was reading an article called Queen of Diamonds by Irene Krieger in Machine Knitting News magazine August 2002 . I looked at this diamond and thought , that’s too easy so lets do the one design next to it. I could not grasp how to do the design I wanted to do  and thought I better try the  “easy” diamond design first to see if it would turn on the light bulb in my brain. OMG!!! The article just tells you how she added texture and some of what she did to arrive at the design. She does not give needle set up or what needles go  on the front or back bed. I sort of assumed it was done on a standard machine but had to try the passap because I love it. (Did I ever mention that? lol)It took me three times before I finally got it. I think it would take me even longer  to  write out the instructions !! haha

You start out doing the eyelet transfer on the front bed. When you move L1  needle to L2 on the same bed, you then bring one needle into work on the back bed opposite the hole.(racking handle up) Then knit four rows. On the next row you take the stitches on either side of the first eyelet(L2, R1) on the front bed and put them on the stitch next to them (L2 to L3 and R1 to R2). Then you pull needles on the back bed forward into the empty spaces. You continue until there are nine needles on the back bed. This is the purl area around the middle “knitted” diamond. Then the fun begins!!! While you are moving the end stitches out on the front bed for the big diamond, now you will start the middle diamond  by moving those stitches to the front bed! Sound confusing? It was and is. My sample is larger because I went wider with the diamond .(And yes, it was a mistake)

The reason that I like this design is because the rest of the garment would be in knit and that is a lot easier sewing the side seams than if it were the purl side. I probably won’t make anything using this design but did you ever wonder how something was done and just had to try it? I know a lot of you can think outside of the box and could come up with lots of ideas where to use this.

Now, I have to go try the design next to this one that I wanted to start with first  and see if I can figure it out after doing this “easy” one. Hah

If enough of you want me to write the instructions on this, I will do it. Just let me know. 🙂

Passap Crossed Cabled Pillow


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On the web site I mentioned in my last post   woman7.ru  , there is a hand knitted design of crossed cables. When I saw it I thought, I bet I can do it on the machine. So I picked my favorite , the passap ,and tried it. I am sure this could be done on other machines as well.  I thought it would look nice on a pillow to give it texture so off to my machine I went. It took about two days to make this and I wish I had more rows between the crossed cables. Why you ask? Because it took me a long time to do them. hahaha

I had the pillow form so I knitted 160 rows on 120 stitches using 2/24, two strands . There are 120 stitches on the back bed and the only ones in work on the front bed are   L43-47 and L34-38 for the first cable on the left. The middle cable is on L3-7 and R 3-7. The right cable is on R34-38 and R43-47. I crossed the cables every 20 rows starting on row 20 and ending on row 140. There are four needles out of work between each of the cables. The back bed lock is set at N and the front lock is set at LX with pushers in work position under the 30 working cable stitches.

First put the same color of yarn into eyelet two for the cables so you don’t have to break the main yarn. In eyelet 3 I put waste yarn.To do this  technique I knitted to row 20 and put all the pushers out of work on all the cables except the 5 stitches on the right cable. I set the back lock to GX and knitted 20 rows on the five stitches on the front bed. I took them off on waste yarn, put the pushers out of work and put the five pushers back in work under the next five cable stitches. I did this across the row until I had six long pieces of yarn. I then crossed the cables and put them back on the front bed stitches. Then you have to change the back lock back to N to knit the next20 rows and put the pushers back into work on all of the front bed cable stitches.

You can see it in the picture of how it is done .skvoz_uzori4

If you try this, I recommend waste yarn after knitting the 20 rows so that when you knit across on the other cables, the yarns don’t get tangled under the bed. Also, I put a piece of ravel cord with a bodkin tied to each end to give it weight so I could pass it between the beds and over the five cable stitches to pull on them gently when knitting so the stitches did not bunch up. I had to open the beds a couple of times to move the ravel cord down so it was gently pulling all of the stitches. When you put the stitches back on the needles , make sure the purl side is facing away from the machine.

I hope you try this just to learn the technique and the machine. When I started I cast on a sample of 40 stitches on both beds. I did a circular cast on and then transferred all the stitches to the back bed except the stitches for the middle cable.

By the way, I added a yellow star to the tops of my trees on my four mug rugs. I like them even better now. 🙂dscf3356

Passap Christmas Tree Mug Rug


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Okay, I know you are getting tired of my mug rugs but just had to share this one since I like it so much. I found the tree on a site and added the rest to make this .

I just made four for my guests on Christmas day so they can put their drinks on them.

At first I thought the site I found the design on  was a blog page but when I downloaded a translation app, it looks like it is a site for women. You MUST visit this site. It has the most beautiful knitted sweaters and designs. If you go on the home page, at the top knitting is under the home tab. Also look at the other tabs. There are designs for mug rugs. I don’t see any information on buying anything so still not sure what the site is for. I just made four for my guests on Christmas day so they can put their drinks on them.

Here is the link. Make sure you scroll all the way down the page to see all the beautiful items.

http://woman7.ru/rukol/uzori-spicami/1616-novogodnie-motivi-spicami.html

My mug rug is 39 stitches by 31 rows. 3 colors. 2 strands of 2/24 yarn. Technique 197. I had red as color one, green as color 2 and white as third eyelet color. I did cast on in red. N/N row was 1…/1…, two rows of CX/CX tension 2../2.. and last row of N/N and mug rug tension 3../3.. To finish, I just knitted two rows of N/N at same tension of 3../3.. and then took off with waste yarn knitting circular. I kitchener stitched to finish. To set up, use L19-R20.

When you finish the cast on and start to knit the first row, the end two pushers should be in the up position . If they are, the pattern is centered. In the pattern you will notice that row one has one red stitch on each end.

I have the files in my drop box at this link. You will see two stp files. One file has two e’s in name and one has one e in name. There are two designs for you. There is one bmp file for win/crea users.

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/fdt66f97qwauwzo/AAD7vXTM4eHqkKfO-0TbP_E9a?dl=0

 

 

 

Passap Thanksgiving Placemat for Turkey


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Okay, I am sorry it took so long to get this posted. I had been working on it but then other issues came up and I had to put this on the back burner. I wanted one for my turkey so I finally finished it and knitted it. This size is 95 stitches by 55 rows. Total rows 330. Technique 197. Finished size is 13.5 inches wide and 11 inches long. I did change my main tension to 4 from 3and two dots. I was discussing the bind off with a knitter friend of mine and she asked if I finished it using the kitchener stitch. DUH! I never thought of that. So that is what I did and I like the finished edge better than the latch tool. Yes, it took longer to do it but I think it is much better. So that is my way of finishing mug rugs and mats from now on. To finish it I knitted 330 rows. Then I set the locks to N/N and knitted one row of color one at the same tension I used for the mat. Then I took it off using waste yarn and circular settings (CX/CX)with a good contrasting yarn. The colors are beige, brown and orange and I used two strands each of 2/24. Here is the link to my drop box, I put the file of the design in bmp and stp format. The stp file is urkey.stp       lol   I guess I was in a hurry and missed the t in turkey.

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/9ras1aqz7m95ww8/AABvdJimAWDFJqunFPIO35l-a?dl=0

 

In the lettering it looks like a mistake on the letter “a” but that is from a letter graph that I used. Feel free to go in and change it if you don’t like it.  Please do not sell this pattern as your own.

I would like to wish all of my followers a very Happy Thanksgiving!  🙂

Passap Halloween Mug Rugs


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I made some mug rug designs in case you don’t want to do the larger placemats. I love these because I can just throw them in the washing machine if they get dirty and they don’t take any space to store until the next year.

Note: In my place mat instructions I did not mention at the end to latch tool bind off the stitches that are on waste yarn starting at the end without the yarn tail. I was assuming everyone would know how to do this.

You can find the instructions in my drop box link.

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/776mzn2ch7wvzyi/AAANC08RRuAv_3ofx2KFB7jHa?dl=0

Passap Halloween Placemats


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Halloween is just around the corner so I decided to make some placemats. The pumpkin placemat will have my candy bowl on it for the trick or treaters along with the little witch lady I machine knitted using the Brother machine.
I made the witch placemat first and it really needs more color in it. I am happy with the pumpkin one though.
It took me FORRREVVVVVVER to get the distortion out of my designs. You are welcome to use these for your personal use but not to sell them as your pattern. I have written out the instructions on how to make these. They are around 10.5 inches high by 14 inches in width . I used 2/24 yarn and technique 183. On the directions for the pumpkin placemat I walk you through the whole process of downloading to knitting. I always do my cast on before I turn the console on. On the witch placemat it just gives the directions for the placemat. Both are the same but one has all the details.These patterns are odd numbers in width so you must center the design by programming 1- (minus) in the set up.
The information and both files are in my drop box link below.

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/1kb2ybidrwfkh9c/AABoVbQp-DWGk2whHaKYgZUNa?dl=0

Passap Double Jacquard Square Neck Tunic


Front of Passap DJ Tunic Sweater

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Side view showing ribbing on sleeve and side seam

I tried the square neckline in my last posting because I wanted to make a square necked tunic.  I used Bramwell’s Duo Magic in olive green and wood pigeon! What color is that you ask? It is like a beige color. I used pattern 1289 (8 stitches by 8 rows)in the passap pattern book and technique 183. After I figured the number of stitches I needed I realized it was the perfect amount for the sides to match….a first for me.

I did the neck ribbing after I finished the front .  I sort of thought it looked plain and matronly but I continued to knit the back  .  I figured out how to knit the back with a one inch drop without doing a cut and sew. Then I knit the back rib .

I have not done a lot of double bed knitting of garments but I thought the shoulder seam would be thick with four sets of stitches. I decided to make a band of ribbing that would mask that if it happened. I hung the shoulder stitches right sides together with the ribbing in-between. I then cast off. The shoulder seam is really flat . Now I am looking at it and thinking it is still pretty plain looking and not sure I should have done the ribbing on the shoulders. I came up with the idea of ribbing between the side seams near the hem. I did the same thing by putting the ribbing between the two fabrics right sides together. Okay, not so plain. Now for the sleeves!  The sleeves were 400 knitted rows!!!  I finished both sleeves and then got to thinking   of how to put a ribbing on the sleeve but not between the seam. I knitted up the ribbing, took it off on waste yarn and latch tooled the open stitches from the inside between a knitted column. It worked. lol

Here is what I learned while knitting this.

To take stitches off on waste yarn on a brother is easy .You just pull out the needles to hold that you don’t want to knit. I had to figure out how to do this to remove the left side stitches of the front to work on the right side. I figured out how to do this on the passap and laughed when I succeeded. I used pushers under the front needles I wanted to remove and LX setting on front lock and GX on back lock. On the back I brought in pushers and used BX and GX on the front lock.. I took off circular and it made it easier to rehang  the stitches to do the left front shaping.

The next thing I learned is that when your increases or decreases are in every row if you don’t put the end pushers up on the front bed, the end needles will start to have stitches pile up . That is because you knit four rows for one row and the second color did not always knit the end stitches because of the pattern.I experienced this on the sleeve cap.

The third thing I did was when I knitted the sleeves, I started with 60 stitches and got to 120 at the underarm. When setting up the pattern I set the Left and Right stitches at 35- and 35+. This way, when I was knitting I did not have to take the locks all the way out to needle 60 so the console would not beep and make me reset the pattern. I kept doing this as I increased in increments of five. I never forgot once. What also surprised me is that I never forgot to put a pusher in work or out of work. When I first knitted on the passap , I always forgot since you don’t have to worry about that on a brother machine.

I am now happy with the sweater and especially with the weight of it. I love Bramwell yarns and I am glad I made this sweater instead of an afghan. AND I still have 8 ounces of yarn left on each cone!

Was it as easy as I thought it would be? Yes and  No.  I would say it was more time consuming than difficult. Every time I decreased or increased it was on each bed and it took a lot of time. On my sleeves I had 28 increases on both sides to the underarm. That means four decrease each time(both ends and front and back bed) On the sleeve cap there were 1 stitch decreases on almost all of the rows until the last rows at the top. I think the first sleeve took me 2&1/2 hours to do. The neckline probably took about that length of time also. I started to laugh when I was knitting the front. It was 292 rows on the front to the underarm and it felt like I was knitting an afghan!!!!    🙂

 

 

 

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Passap Intarsia


 

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Top sample in picture 2nd Try, Bottom sample is my 1st try

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I can’t believe how I have never come across many articles on Intarsia on the Passap. I thought there was a special little carriage you had to have. So today I decided to explore Intarsia and what a challenge. My top picture was my second try after wrapping the yarn when I knitted across. The bottom sample in the 2nd picture down was my first try. lol, look at all the holes! I made the color lighter so you could see them.

After trying that I started going through all of my books that I have. I found Intarsia in the Carl Peterson book Learn to Program and Operate your E-6000 in 10 Easy Lessons.

Well the knitting is simple enough. Just single bed and the LX setting using pushers. The programming of the console for the four color is something I have to go back and think over. I just followed the book for programming so I got that right, haha, and then knitted so I could see the design . The four color was just the arrow part. The colors are hunter green, white, navy and yellow. In his book he programs 2 stitch patterns A and B. A was a two color intarsia of 20 rows and then the four color was pattern B.

I have done intarsia on the Brother machines and it is a lot of work and reading of graphs. I can not believe how easy this was to do. The key is wrapping and I need to research more on that. The other key to getting it right is to gently lift the yarn colors as you go across so you don’t get loops on the back. In the bottom picture, the two yellow loops were where I did not lift the yarn enough. I think the bottom picture showing the purl side is quite neat for Intarsia and I am not sure I am even doing it totally correct.

The really funny thing about trying these swatches is that I got out my Passap Tricofit so I would not have to bind off all the stitches by hand and it worked like a charm. I was ready to put it up for sale. Let me make one thing clear though. I would only use it for the tension swatches and not to bind off an afghan or garment. I am finding the key to using it is to keep on cranking and don’t hesitate or stop after you start until you get to the end.

I would really encourage you to try the intarsia on a  day where you just want to  try knitting something on the machine .

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