Archive for Brother Knitting Machine

Passap Raglan Decreases-Single bed


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I came across an article called Nice’ N’ Easy  by George LeWarre in the Duet International Book Number 8 Autumn/Fall 1991. I compared them to the decreases I had done previously in my blog and they are different. Their may be one that is the same. If you print out the page that is the picture above, you will have the directions and a picture of what they look like. On the third one down, there is a one, two and three stitch decrease. You would pick one of the three, not do them all in a row like my sample. I have about four more to add and will notify you later.

I would like to encourage you to try these and make a sample of your own and label them for future reference. You might want to start your own book of samples.

That is what  I am doing now when I don’t feel like knitting. I am using  large notebooks with pictures and directions and putting in all the samples I have knitted .They will be going with my passap when I sell her so that the next person does not have to spend all of their time on the internet looking for directions on a particular technique.  So far I have about 5 notebooks but I am going to organize them better.

The picture above is in my drop box with the other raglan decreases.

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/lhfvnw0ncnhgs0t/AADJ_PxwCNWUnUe41dJ7IkA2a?dl=0

Passap vs Brother Placemat by Tricia Shafer


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I made this  Tricia Shafer plated place mat(top picture)  on the Brother years ago and I liked it. I decided to make it again. When I finished, I decided to try to duplicate it on the Passap. And that is when I found out I can’t. (Notice , I said “I can’t” , maybe someone else can) I also found out from a friend in Arizona that there is a plating attachment for the passap, though rare to find.

I made the placemat on the Brother with two strands of Estillo for both yarns . On the botton one made on the passap I used one strand of Diamonte. I tried two strands of Estillo to start and I think I had problems because I did not have the right tensions. Looking back now, I bet it would be the same size as the first one if I did use the 2 strands of estillo.

Here are the comparisons . The plated mat is heavier and had a great shape when it came off the machine.  The passap was made just using blue diamonte using the same amount of stitches . The passap mat is smaller by about one and a half inches but it still is a nice size. The passap mat is not as nice shaped and is much lighter. The pattern came out nice on both mats done on different machines. So, I have to give the vote to Brother just because I don’t have the plating attachment for the Passap. 😦

To make this on the passap, I cast on N/N 1/1  and knitted the two CX 2../2.. rows and the N/N 5/5 row and then I transferred stitches from the front bed to the back bed.

Below is the  set up on the front bed.(of course you will have more needles than the diagram) The ends have 2 needles in work . The dots are the needles out of work.The back bed has all of the needles in work and the racking handle is down while knitting. You will put it up when transferring the stitches so the needles line up at the beginning transfers.

I cast on 63-63 on front bed and one less on back bed so the end needles are on the front bed. After transferring the front bed stitches to the back bed,(if you have one left over double up the stitches so that both ends look like the diagram below) put those needles out of work and put pushers in work under the remaining needles in work. Set locks to LX/N. I set the back bed tension to 5 and the front bed tension to 3. On the Brother the tensions were 7 on the main bed and 3 on the ribber. The sequence is six rows of knitting at LX/N and then 2 rows of LX/GX so that only the front bed needles knit.ALSO:in her pattern , Tricia  only does two rows of knitting instead of six between the  rows , two times,and you can see that in the pattern. There are three lines close together dividing the mat in 3. There are 158 rows of knitting . To finish transfer the front bed stitches to the back bed and bind off the stitches.

11.1.111.1.1.1.1.1.111.1.1.1.1.1.111.1.11

 

Short Rowed Scarf made on the Brother Machine


 

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I was talking to a woman that contacted me to learn the passap machine. She was telling me that a knitting guild she belonged to had a knitting challenge doing any machine knitted  item that was short rowed. She told me a woman in the guild made the most beautiful scarf and that she wanted to try it. She found the pattern and I liked it and bought it . I used a yarn that has the feel of perla. It is a thin yarn and the variegated yarn was even thinner. I did not crochet around the scarf when I was done. I used the “worm” edging . The worm edging is on you tube by Kate Winslow. The edge still curls a little bit but I think it is okay.

This was a lot of fun to make.Breezy Spencer  states in her pattern that  you have to concentrate ….and you do…..but once you start to knit you will see that you don’t have to look at the pattern any more. Her pattern tells you the yarn she used and that she made hers on the Bulky. I don’t like wide scarves so I used the same amount of stitches in her pattern and made mine on the Brother standard gauge machine. The pattern is five dollars and it is on Ravelry and it is called Machine Knit Short Row Scarf by Breezy Spencer

Passap vs Brother on Lace Scarf


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My friend Jacqui emailed me and told me that this “wave” design is on the Passap magazine #60. Here is the link to see it

http://machineknittingetc.com/passap-60-pattern-book.html

I had given it  a thought to try it on the passap but I figured  it would be a lot of work moving pushers in and out of work. When I saw the magazine I thought I would give it a try since you all know that my passap is my favorite machine.

In the magazine you will notice that the beginning of the sweater is knitted plain without the waves for a number of rows and it is knit on both beds. Then you transfer the back bed to the front bed and do this pattern. At least that is what I was able to figure out since those magazines don’t give a lot of detail.

Well, I found out why it was started tubular and then knitted plain for a number of rows. I cast on tubular and went right into the wave pattern and it was very difficult. If you try this on the passap I would start with waste yarn and ravel cord .

If you look at the sides of this beginning of a scarf, they are relatively straight. (I steamed this out to show you)That is because when you knit the end groups by themselves when you get to the edge, passap instruction tells you to knit 4 rows before working on two groups to start the row. In the video that is posted on my last blog, 6 rows are knitted giving it a wavy edge. I like the wavy edge  better, but that is  just my preference.

So which machine wins?  THE BROTHER

First of all, on my last scarf there were sets of four needles with 3 out of work in-between. On this one there are sets of 6 needles with 2 out of work in-between.

1.The closed beds keep you from seeing the knitting and you can forget which direction you are going in.

2. Quicker to pull needles to hold than it is to put pushers in and out of work. Though I will say, it was not as slow as I thought it would be.

3. On the brother I was able to hold the sets of two stitches I was working on with my little finger to keep them from coming off the stitches.

4. I like the chain cast on that is used to start the scarf on the Brother.

5. More of a chance to put the pushers under the wrong needles and end up with seven in a group instead of the six this calls for .(I know because it happened.LOL)

 

And here is a link to show a scarf on the bulky machine which would go even quicker. 🙂

http://machineknittingfun.blogspot.com/2011/09/my-new-cap.html

Machine Knitted Santa Ornament/Package Tie


 

I found a pattern in one of my books for a Sant pin, or tree decoration. I don’t know who the author is or where the pattern is from. I just know that it was in a file I have of all Christmas ideas. I decided to make him because it uses “pencil fringe” . I had never tried it though I have heard of it. I made this on my Brother 940.

This was so easy and quick to make and I think he is adorable. He is knitted flat and not stuffed. Because of the way this is knitted, the edges pull in making it look like he is. The yarn suggested was 2/15 or 2/20. I used Flash in white for the face and red for the hat. He actually sparkles if you see him in person. haha

For the beard I had a type of white ribbon yarn .

He is made by e wrapping 15 stitches in white yarn. Then you knit one row. The beard is made next using the pencil fringe. You will have a separate ball of white yarn on the floor to wrap around the pencil. You will start on the left  with all the needles out to hold and put the yarn around the end needle and then down and around the pencil and then back up over the next needle and keep doing that along the length of stitches. Then you knit one row.(You can knit this row by hand if you don’t want to take the carriage across) Then wrap in the opposite direction.For his beard, the first pencil fringe is made wrapping the pencil one time. The second row is made wrapping two times around the pencil and the third row is made wrapping the pencil three times. After this you move on to the face. Continuing on the same needles,you will put 5 stitches in hold on the next two rows. Then you will put one back in work opposite the carriage until you are back to 15 stitches. Then knit 5 rows and take off on garter bar or waste yarn.

Now you will start the hat the same way as his beard. With white, E wrap 15 stitches and do three  rows of pencil fringe but only wrap each row one time around the pencil. Remember to knit one row after wrapping the pencil. Put all needles to hold after knitting that row so you can remove the pencil . When you are finished with the three rows of pencil fringe, rehang the the face stitches that were removed on the garter bar onto the same needles. There will be 2 stitches on each needle. Knit one row of white

Now you change to red yarn and finish the hat. You will knit 6 rows of red. Decrease one stitch on each side and knit 3 rows. Then decrease 1 stitch each side every other row until one stitch is left. Fasten off and leave a loop to use for hanging on the tree or for a package ornament. (or pin)

I did use a tighter tension(5) for my yarn. I made my first sample with 2/24 and he was too long in the face. Also, use a loopy yarn for the beard. You want fullness. The loops of 2/24 were okay but did not make him look very cute. The pattern suggest sequins for the eyes and a pink sequin for the nose. I used black little pompoms I had and a red rhinestone for the nose. He is sure to bring a smile whether you wear him as a pin, hang him on the tree or put him on a Christmas gift. Hope you try him. 🙂

 

 

Knitted Hat with Ear Flaps on the Brother Standard Machine


dscf0025A woman who lives outside of the United States  reached out to  me about learning the passap. She bought a passap E6000 and she is really excelling in her learning of the machine. She is a loving caregiver to a disabled child. Because she has very little time to herself, she knits in the wee hours of the morning. I think I might start doing that since she accomplishes so much and makes such good use of her time when she does knit! Recently she was telling me that she used to  make a lot of hats on another machine she had. She sent me a picture of this hat with the team logo on it and I thought it was so cute. She said it was her own pattern and she used to earn extra money making them for  people. She was kind enough to share the pattern with me and all of you. I never heard of the yarn she used so I used Can Cun and made one for a family member. The hat is so easy to make. I love the way the ear flaps are done. What took me the longest time was figuring the design into 34 rows and centering it so the back seam matched. I was just trying it out with CanCun using a tension 7. When I asked her more questions like how long the braids are, she in turn sent another sheet of information with the tensions she uses and the sizes for children through adult. She uses the same amount of stitches but adjusts the tension for the sizes. Now that I like!!! And the braids are so much better than making pompoms. LOL The length of the braids is your choice. I used 8 strands for each section of braids

Here is her pattern that she wrote up for me(and you 🙂

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/m4jid6khtlhpoht/AAB_Kihhi0xkzq0rP3nl8kbia?dl=0

These would make great Christmas gifts . They don’t take long to make, not a lot of sewing of seams and they are cute !  On my navy and white hat I used a fuzzy acrylic yarn that sort of feels like angora. However, I just realized that I forgot to raise my tension for one row when I hung the band. You can see a ridge but I think a light steam might help.

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Passap China Pattern Sweater


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I just finished knitting this  sweater following a pattern  called China Pattern Jacket . It is in Modern Machine Knitting magazine dated June of 1992 . I made this on the Passap E6000 and made lots of modifications. I made it a sweater instead of a jacket. I used win/crea to change the patterns of the leaves so that they were not split in the front like the original pattern. I also spaced them so that they were not in the seams of the sweater and the sleeves. I patterned the neckband so that the design did not go into the buttonhole. There is only one buttonhole in the band at the neck. The yarn I used was Diamonte in Wedgwood Blue and Cream.

Now I am going to tell you that I absolutely love my E6000 BUT ….now I don’t feel like a traitor to Brother machines. This would have been a breeze on the Brother. The only reason I used the Passap was to try fair isle and I won’t do it again. 🙂  EVER!  It is very confusing doing patterns since you have four rows to knit for one row. I also had to keep raising pushers on the ends when I knitted the second color. (like the end needle selection that Brother has). Wrapping was out of the question .

And FLOATS? OMG they are huge. I had to latch tool up behind the flowers to pull the floats in so that there were no gaps between the background and the pattern. I don’t see how that can be avoided using any machine with this pattern though. Well, unless it was knitted in double  jacquard.

I sort of like the jacket better but short items don’t look good on me. I do have to say that this is one of the best fitting sweaters I have ever made and it feels good on me. The sleeves are my perfect length also.

So if a Passap is the only machine you have, this can be done.

 

 

Brother 940 Lace Sweater


 

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This sweater I knitted on the Brother 940 was SO NOT WORTH IT! My original idea was a lace overlay in gray over a black sweater and it was going to be attached at the neck and armholes. I did tension swatches in black Diamonte and gray Tepeyac. I decided to make the front of the black sweater first. Then I started on the gray lace overlay. I spent a long time trying to figure out how to start the lace edge and how many stitches to increase to make the diagonal. Then I think it took me 8 hours just to do the front that actually became the back. lol I knitted too far and was not going to rip it back so I continued and made it the back. When I finished it I realized that Tepeyac is a little heavier than Diamonte and the sweater would be too heavy for my liking. Then I thought that I would just make a gray lace sweater and wear a turtleneck. The lace pattern is 158 in Stitch World .

For every two rows of knitting you have to run the lace carriage across 8 times. I figured that between the front, back and the two sleeves, I ran the lace carriage 4,304 times! It was actually more because I did not count the left front shaping. I knew when I chose it that it would take time but I never figured it to be that much time. The first time I dropped a stitch, it took at least 15 minutes to correct it. And with eight passes between two rows, there were many times a stitch could drop. Because it was so hard to rip out, I knitted a thin piece of nylon thread in with the regular yarn every 20 rows . I think hand knitters call this a life line. I used almost the whole spool of thread but it definitely was worth it. The thread was so strong that it pulled out like ravel cord.

Originally, I was going to have black stockinette sleeves. However, when I changed my mind and decided on gray stockinette sleeves, I had to knit another tension swatch .I did that and laundered it and knitted a sleeve and attached it and……did not like it. I removed it and went back to the lace design for the sleeves. Now add two more days of knitting but I like the look better with the lace sleeves.

To start the lace on a diagonal, I knit up the amount of stitches needed for the front , first with waste yarn, then a crochet cast on and knit one row of gray and removed on waste yarn. When I increased, I just hung the stitches from the strip that I had knitted up. I hung six stitches every four rows. When I removed the waste yarn it looked like I had cast on at the beginning. When I finished the front and back, I crocheted in the cast on stitch on the wrong side. The edge had a wave to it so I crocheted 1 stitch in the next 3 stitches and then 3 crochets in one stitch, then 1 stitch in the next three stitches and then skipped a stitch . I repeated around the bottom. Then I crocheted a second row with the right side facing me. It was like crocheting a ripple afghan .

Oh, one last thing. Because I was originally going to do the two sweaters hooked together I made a higher neck line since I would not be wearing a turtleneck under it. So when I finished the front , I thought the neck was too high so I did a cut and sew neckline. That was fun….not!

I recently saw a beautiful lace cardigan on one of the Facebook knitting machine groups and the woman said that for the time it took her, she would have been better off going out and buying a sweater. I am in agreement with her there! 🙂

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Buttonhole in a 2 by 2 Ribbing


Here is the simple buttonhole in a 2 by 2 rib that I used on my last sweater and it is easy and looks nice.  If you are using the passap the buttonhole stitches are transferred from the front bed to the back bed. On other machines you transfer the ribber stitches to the main bed. In the pictures you will see that the first step is to take the two front bed (ribber ) stitches and transfer them to the back bed(main bed) . Once you have transferred the stitches, leave the empty needles in work position and knit one row. You will see the yarn laying in the two empty front bed(ribber) needles. We all know that if you knit another row, the stitches won’t knit off properly.  In the second picture you will take a transfer tool and go between the two needles with the yarn laying in the latches and lift it gently and transfer that loop to the right needle on the back (main) bed .(Make sure the yarn stays in the needles.) Now finish the rest of the rows in the band.  I like the way the hole is in the purl side between two knit columns. It came out perfect for the button that I chose.

BUTTONHOLE IN 2 BY 2 RIBBING

BUTTONHOLE IN 2 BY 2 RIBBING2

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Passap V Neck Cardigan-Inspiration to Outcome


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Well, as you can tell, the outcome looks nothing like the inspiration. LOL Here is how it started. I saw this sweater(bottom picture) and thought about making it in Can Cun on my Brother 940 since lace is really easy to do on that machine. Then I changed my mind and decided to use Main Jaggerspun wool 2/8 instead of CanCun. I had made a vest in that yarn and I liked the way the lace knitted with it.(shown in my blog in 2/11) I picked my color of wool and threaded up the machine. So I went to look for the information on the vest to see what tension I used so I could knit my swatch. While looking for the information I came across the sample of the hem I tried on the passap from a passap magazine .(this is shown in my blog in 9/2011) I made that sample in Diamonte so I decided to use that yarn and design as the hem for the lace. And now I am off to knit it on the passap.  I decided on five inches for the design.  I took my measurements from my swatch and drew up the pattern . After I finished the front and back and joined them at the shoulders, it hit me that I think a crocheted neckline would look funny. Oh well, worry about that later. Hahaha
Now I have to do the sleeves but I don’t want to do increases in the ribbing part because you knit circular , then transfer to a 2 by 2 rib and then knit circular again . My cuff came out to 3 inches so I subtracted that length from the arm length and ended up doing more increases in a shorter distance to get the right width at the underarm.  I finish that and join the sleeves. While knitting the sleeves I thought that for the front band I would use the same design I used for the bottom and cuffs but instead of doing the last circular rows, I did the “sandwhich ” join and it ended up being really easy to do.

While doing the bands, I didn’t want to bring the band down to the bottom five inches because I wanted to leave that open . I just wanted three buttons . So I left the rib edges unfinished . I did latch tool crochet through the first and second stitch to give it a little more thickness.
I wanted something casual and this ended up being a little more dressy but at least the sweater was not a loss.
I did have something funny happen. It is so hard to tell how the length of the sleeves will feel until the sweater is sewn together. So I did the bands and sewed the side seams and OMG, the arms were down to the floor….well….not to the floor but they were a good inch too long. I left my sewing room and contemplated  a remedy. It is not a big deal to shorten the sleeve but I did not know how I was going to join the cuff. I did not want to attach the rib and then  bind off. Okay, it hit me that I could do the cuff like the front bands. I had some things to do  and put this on hold. Then I got the idea to leave the seams open and wash and dry it like my swatch. I did that and the arms came out perfect length! SO, it does pay to do swatches. I am so glad I did not shorten and then end up having 3/4 sleeves.

I needed a simple one stitch buttonhole and my next post will show what I did. I found the directions in a ribber book but the explanation made no sense until I tried it. I wanted to use small buttons and this was perfect for it.

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