Archive for May, 2017

Passap Creative Slip and Tuck


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My friend Jacqui and I were discussing the Passap Knitting Machine and what it can do. She told me that there was an article in KnitWords Magazine #1, 1997 Summer on knitting two motifs side by side and one motif was slip stitch and one motif was tuck. The article is written by Katherine Geiger and she sounds just like me. She was so excited figuring this out and seeing what this Passap 6000 can do!
I just had to try this. In the article Katherine has a design that she made . I put it into win/crea and downloaded it. This is sample 1. The diamonds are tuck and the zig zag is slip.
How unique is that? The technique used is 129 (or 179)and when it says to change to KX, ignore the console and put UX setting on front lock.
The OX and UX settings slip and tuck in different directions. So when she made her pattern she starts the pattern that she wants to slip on the odd numbered lines and tuck motifs on even numbered lines with a blank row in-between each row of each of the designs. What happens is that when one motif tucks, the slip motif is inactive. When the slip motif is active the tuck motif is inactive. It was fun to watch while knitting. You use one color and when you knit row one you will only see needles selected for motif one. After knitting row 1, the needles selected are motif 2. Then when you knit the next two rows, you will see motif 1 and then motif two. The pushers must be in work under all the front bed needles.
Katherine then suggests using a technique in the manual from 1000 to 1034. Pick your pattern and use technique 149. Ignore the console and use UX. Knitting with these settings gives you a fabric that she calls Loopy Lace. The stitch formation is such that it is being slipped first and then tucked giving a more pronounced look to the pattern. I used the same technique but used two different patterns to see how they each looked.
In the fourth sample she suggests using OX and the fabric looks so similar to fine lace knitted on the Japanese machines. The great thing is you don’t have to use a lace carriage, you just put in black strippers and knit away!
In sample 2, I picked pattern 1032 and technique 149 and UX
In sample 3 I picked pattern 1028 and technique 149 and UX.
In sample 4 I used pattern 1028 and technique 149 and OX
These samples are all knitted single bed.
I hope you try it. I think the one fabric sort of looks like garter stitch that the Brother G carriage knits. If you want more detailed information on how to do this, just email me.

Passap Machine, Changing from Rib to Full Double Bed-Eliminating the “holes”


DSCF4229In a book I have called The Knitting Machine Textbook:Using the Passap E6000 by Marika Simon I came across an article and decided to read it.  Imagine that.  I have seen a lot of people asking how to eliminate the holes after knitting rib and going into full needle rib. Well, in this book there are three ways to do it and you use the console. What? Now you have my attention.

Sample one is knitted and it comes out with holes between the ribbing and the main garment. It can be decorative but undesirable in other instances. In the book, sample 2 says “Reducing the size of the holes. Sample 3 says Further reducing the holes and Sample 4 says Eliminating the holes completely.
In the book the rib is knitted with two strands of yarn and when you transfer to full needle , she says to only use one strand of yarn. Well, I always knit with two strands so my first four samples are knitted with 2 strands throughout. When I knitted sample 2,3 & 4 there were no holes at all!
So I went back and knitted the first and second samples changing to one strand after the rib and now I see why they had the headings that they did. When changing to one strand the holes still show up in sample 2. See the picture with 2 samples. I did not do sample 3 and 4 because I know which one I will use. It will be #4 .
Sample one:The console is programmed with the long stitch technique 117. A 1X1 rib is knitted first. Then the needles are all brought into work . You program the console answering all the questions and setting the correct numbers of needles and then knit. Large holes appear.
Sample two : Knit the 1X1 rib, change to one strand of yarn, bring all needles into work and knit 4 rows of CX/CX . Then program the console for technique 117 and start knitting.
Sample 3: Knit the rib but stop the lock on the left side and change the tension to 5 and knit one row. Put all of the needles into work and take the heel of the loop on the purl stitches on the front bed and put onto the empty needles on the back bed. Set tension back to 3 , Program the console for 117 and knit.
Sample 4: Knit the rib and stop on the left side to raise the tension 2 numbers. Take the heel of the purl stitches on front bed and put on the back bed and vice versa. Knit one row at tension 4 and one row at tension 3(original tension) Program the console for 117 and knit.This is the way I have always done it except I have never knitted the long stitch .This has changed my mind. I really like the weight of the fabric using one strand of 2/24 for the garment using technique 117.
If you would like more detailed instructions on trying these, please email me. Otherwise, if you don’t want any holes going from rib to full needle rib, use the last technique and you don’t even have to use technique 117. I used to do this on the Brother and never knitted the two rows after all the transfers and it came out very nice.

 

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Passap Vertical Band for a Sweater or Jacket


I am still learning new things on my passap and I have had it for quite awhile. I just tried something I saw in a book that I have. It is knitting a vertical band while knitting the sweater so you don’t have to go back and attach a band. Well, that’s not new you say. I didn’t think so either until I read the directions. When I finished the dark blue one I liked the look. I also noticed it did not curl in . I gently steamed it and it hangs nicely. I think it would be really nice on a formal jacket knitted plain. I would not do as deep a hem or I wouldn’t do a hem at all and just start with the side band . This is simple to do and I hope you try it.
The hem tension was 4 (2 strands of 2/24)Cast on any number of stitches using the N/N row (2..), 2 rows CX/CX (3)and one N/N(4) row. Knit the number of rows you want for a hem. Then transfer all of the stitches on the front bed to the back bed EXCEPT the last five on the right.
Set the front lock to CX and tension 6 and the back lock to N at tension 5. Put in black strippers. Gently weight the five end stitches. With the front lock setting on CX it stretches the stitch a little so it is noticeable and you only knit one row on that front bed for every two rows of knitting. Incidentally, you don’t need front or back bed pushers.I went back and did another sample leaving only 2 stitches on the end instead of 5 and liked it even better. Even the purl side looks good and the edge stands out even more. Notice in the pictures how the border does not show until you transfer the stitches and set the front lock to CX.

I wanted to see how this would look as a design so I just went back and knitted the same thing using 60 stitches .I set up 2 stitches working on the front bed with four empty needles between them. It reminds me of a tuck stitch but if a mistake is made this is so simple to correct. You don’t have to use the console and ripping back would be fast. Notice on one edge I have the 2 stitch border and for the hem I knitted four rows before transferring the stitches to the back bed.