Passap Crossed Cabled Pillow


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On the web site I mentioned in my last post   woman7.ru  , there is a hand knitted design of crossed cables. When I saw it I thought, I bet I can do it on the machine. So I picked my favorite , the passap ,and tried it. I am sure this could be done on other machines as well.  I thought it would look nice on a pillow to give it texture so off to my machine I went. It took about two days to make this and I wish I had more rows between the crossed cables. Why you ask? Because it took me a long time to do them. hahaha

I had the pillow form so I knitted 160 rows on 120 stitches using 2/24, two strands . There are 120 stitches on the back bed and the only ones in work on the front bed are   L43-47 and L34-38 for the first cable on the left. The middle cable is on L3-7 and R 3-7. The right cable is on R34-38 and R43-47. I crossed the cables every 20 rows starting on row 20 and ending on row 140. There are four needles out of work between each of the cables. The back bed lock is set at N and the front lock is set at LX with pushers in work position under the 30 working cable stitches.

First put the same color of yarn into eyelet two for the cables so you don’t have to break the main yarn. In eyelet 3 I put waste yarn.To do this  technique I knitted to row 20 and put all the pushers out of work on all the cables except the 5 stitches on the right cable. I set the back lock to GX and knitted 20 rows on the five stitches on the front bed. I took them off on waste yarn, put the pushers out of work and put the five pushers back in work under the next five cable stitches. I did this across the row until I had six long pieces of yarn. I then crossed the cables and put them back on the front bed stitches. Then you have to change the back lock back to N to knit the next20 rows and put the pushers back into work on all of the front bed cable stitches.

You can see it in the picture of how it is done .skvoz_uzori4

If you try this, I recommend waste yarn after knitting the 20 rows so that when you knit across on the other cables, the yarns don’t get tangled under the bed. Also, I put a piece of ravel cord with a bodkin tied to each end to give it weight so I could pass it between the beds and over the five cable stitches to pull on them gently when knitting so the stitches did not bunch up. I had to open the beds a couple of times to move the ravel cord down so it was gently pulling all of the stitches. When you put the stitches back on the needles , make sure the purl side is facing away from the machine.

I hope you try this just to learn the technique and the machine. When I started I cast on a sample of 40 stitches on both beds. I did a circular cast on and then transferred all the stitches to the back bed except the stitches for the middle cable.

By the way, I added a yellow star to the tops of my trees on my four mug rugs. I like them even better now. 🙂dscf3356

6 Comments »

  1. Susan McBean Said:

    BEAUTIFUL ! Love the color too !

  2. Sherry Hogan Said:

    You are one of my knitting hero’s!! Your experiments are great inspiration! Thanks for sharing once again.

    • Wow Sherry, what kind words. It is so nice when someone lets me know how they feel about what I post. Sometimes I wonder why I do it but then I get energized to knit and go do it again! lol Again, thank you! :0

  3. Naomi Said:

    You continously amaze us with your work! Thank you for sharing.


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