Archive for August, 2016

Passap Cables Knitted SUPER EASY!


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PLEASE READ THE DIRECTIONS FIRST AND THEN WATCH THE SLIDESHOW 🙂

I just had to share this technique with you. I have done cables many times. The easiest method I ever found on the Brother was to cross the cables and then take an extra piece of yarn (running it up on the back of the work)and hand knit the crossed cable stitches and then continue knitting.

Well this one is the easiest one I ever knitted. I found this technique in a book called ABC of Perfect Knitting. It was copyrighted in 1971 by MADAG and printed in Switzerland. I hope you take ten minutes to try this because it has energized me to try cables now.

Here is the needle set up. Sample: cast on single bed on the front bed of the passap .

Needles left 1,2,and 3 and right 1,2, and 3 will be the cable stitches. Racking handle down. Take stitch on left 4 and put it on the bb needle that is slightly to the right. Now take needle right 4 and put it on the bb needle slightly to the left. There should be five needles between the back two stitches you just moved. Now take the heel of the stitch on needle left 5 and put it on the back bed on the left of the one there. Now do the same on the right. You are now set up to do the cable. You knit 9 rows and now the lock is on the left. Now on the back bed where the five empty needles are behind the front six, you will bring the second and fourth one into work. Knit one row to the right and you will see a big loop on the needles. Put those two needles out of work now. Take your three prong transfer tools and transfer needles 4,5,6 to 1,2,3 and needles 1,2,3 to 4,5,6. There is no stretching or pulling of the yarn because of the loop from the previously knitted row .

I hope you give this a try. 🙂

Passap Shadow Lace Diamond Design with Simulated Seed Stitch Neckband


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Simulated Seed Stitch Neckband

This design of shadow lace can be done on any machine with a ribber. It is so easy to do. The purl side ends up being the right side of the knitting. To do the diamond design you will be knitting on the bb of the passap or main bed for other machines. When you want the design to start, this is how it is knitted. Row 1-4 you will put 2 needles into work on the front bed(ribber) and knit 4 rows. Row 5-8-put one needle into work on the right and left of the first 2 needles in work on front bed(ribber) and knit 4 rows. Continue to increase one stitch on each side until you have 12 needles in work and you knitted the last 4 rows. There will be a total of 24 rows. Now transfer the diamond stitches on the needles to the back bed(main bed ) and knit 10 rows. Then start your design again. This is explained in the book Simply Passap Volume1, Number3 August 1989 and the article is by Pat Wentzel.on page 11.

I knitted this tunic in  Tamm’s Diamonte in a deep royal blue . I chose this yarn since the pattern in the simply passap book was done in the same yarn. I knitted a 1/2 inch rib and put in side slits following Sandy Cherry’s instructions on a sweater pattern I have of hers. I like the way it is knitted and also the way it looks . To do the slits, you knit your ribbing. When you are finished knitting the ribbing, bind off 7 stitches on each side. Knit the length of the opening you want(mine was 4 inches) and then cast on those 7 stitches that were bound off. when you are finished with the front or back, you will knit a 1 by 1 insert.

I did not know what I wanted for the neck until I remembered doing a simulated seed stitch neck band that was in the Jan Wold and Jan Mills passap book. I have the band posted in this blog on March 26, 2015. If you go to that posting you will find the directions in my drop box on how to do the seed stitch band. I sewed the neck band off instead of binding off around the gate pegs just in case it would not stretch. I followed the directions for the sewing off in the book called Casting on and Binding Off by Grace Bengelsdorf. It took me probably an hour to do it this way but I think it looks nice and it is not tight.

If anyone decides to try this you can email me for my notes. I used tension 6. Stitch gauge was 7.61 and 12 rows to the inch. Mast set at 4.5 I will give you the length I used and the rows to start the diamonds on.

I also tried something else and it worked. I DO NOT like a lot of bulk in the underarm area. That is one reason I don’t like drop shoulder sweaters. I made the armhole opening 9 inches . So when the sleeve is knitted it usually has an 18 inch measurement when you get to the underarm . I decided to knit the sweater with a 9 inch opening but I made the sleeve 16 inches at the widest part and I love how much skinnier the arm is. I am glad that I tried it. I had no trouble hanging the sweater and the sleeve on the same needles for joining.

I did another thing that I have not done before. I joined  the side and sleeve seams by hanging them on the machine and binding off. I like this look much better than trying to sew the purl side by hand.

Buttonhole in a 2 by 2 Ribbing


Here is the simple buttonhole in a 2 by 2 rib that I used on my last sweater and it is easy and looks nice.  If you are using the passap the buttonhole stitches are transferred from the front bed to the back bed. On other machines you transfer the ribber stitches to the main bed. In the pictures you will see that the first step is to take the two front bed (ribber ) stitches and transfer them to the back bed(main bed) . Once you have transferred the stitches, leave the empty needles in work position and knit one row. You will see the yarn laying in the two empty front bed(ribber) needles. We all know that if you knit another row, the stitches won’t knit off properly.  In the second picture you will take a transfer tool and go between the two needles with the yarn laying in the latches and lift it gently and transfer that loop to the right needle on the back (main) bed .(Make sure the yarn stays in the needles.) Now finish the rest of the rows in the band.  I like the way the hole is in the purl side between two knit columns. It came out perfect for the button that I chose.

BUTTONHOLE IN 2 BY 2 RIBBING

BUTTONHOLE IN 2 BY 2 RIBBING2

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Passap V Neck Cardigan-Inspiration to Outcome


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Well, as you can tell, the outcome looks nothing like the inspiration. LOL Here is how it started. I saw this sweater(bottom picture) and thought about making it in Can Cun on my Brother 940 since lace is really easy to do on that machine. Then I changed my mind and decided to use Main Jaggerspun wool 2/8 instead of CanCun. I had made a vest in that yarn and I liked the way the lace knitted with it.(shown in my blog in 2/11) I picked my color of wool and threaded up the machine. So I went to look for the information on the vest to see what tension I used so I could knit my swatch. While looking for the information I came across the sample of the hem I tried on the passap from a passap magazine .(this is shown in my blog in 9/2011) I made that sample in Diamonte so I decided to use that yarn and design as the hem for the lace. And now I am off to knit it on the passap.  I decided on five inches for the design.  I took my measurements from my swatch and drew up the pattern . After I finished the front and back and joined them at the shoulders, it hit me that I think a crocheted neckline would look funny. Oh well, worry about that later. Hahaha
Now I have to do the sleeves but I don’t want to do increases in the ribbing part because you knit circular , then transfer to a 2 by 2 rib and then knit circular again . My cuff came out to 3 inches so I subtracted that length from the arm length and ended up doing more increases in a shorter distance to get the right width at the underarm.  I finish that and join the sleeves. While knitting the sleeves I thought that for the front band I would use the same design I used for the bottom and cuffs but instead of doing the last circular rows, I did the “sandwhich ” join and it ended up being really easy to do.

While doing the bands, I didn’t want to bring the band down to the bottom five inches because I wanted to leave that open . I just wanted three buttons . So I left the rib edges unfinished . I did latch tool crochet through the first and second stitch to give it a little more thickness.
I wanted something casual and this ended up being a little more dressy but at least the sweater was not a loss.
I did have something funny happen. It is so hard to tell how the length of the sleeves will feel until the sweater is sewn together. So I did the bands and sewed the side seams and OMG, the arms were down to the floor….well….not to the floor but they were a good inch too long. I left my sewing room and contemplated  a remedy. It is not a big deal to shorten the sleeve but I did not know how I was going to join the cuff. I did not want to attach the rib and then  bind off. Okay, it hit me that I could do the cuff like the front bands. I had some things to do  and put this on hold. Then I got the idea to leave the seams open and wash and dry it like my swatch. I did that and the arms came out perfect length! SO, it does pay to do swatches. I am so glad I did not shorten and then end up having 3/4 sleeves.

I needed a simple one stitch buttonhole and my next post will show what I did. I found the directions in a ribber book but the explanation made no sense until I tried it. I wanted to use small buttons and this was perfect for it.

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