Archive for November, 2015

Passap And Brother Knitted Santa Scarves


I wanted to hurry and knit these scarves for my nephews  daughter and girlfriend .  The pattern is adapted from a circular sock machine pattern. You can find a free pattern for it that is similar at this link:

or you can google “machine knitted Santa Scarf” and you will see several similar and different ones.

I used yarn that I had except for the white that is called pipsqueak. I bought it at Joanne fabric store on sale for 2.69. The large red one is  Red Heart and so is the white for pompom.

I used 44 stitches and tension 6 on the Bulky. On the passap I used the same amount of stitches and used a 3 ply yarn at tension 5..  I knitted the faces to the brim and then re hung stitches and knitted circular for about 250 rows(500)

I did the white beard for both of them on the Bulky machine . For the little scarf I used 22 stitches on the bulky  to fit the width of the one for the passap.

I know my nephew will laugh and his girlfriend is so cute she will love it.

Passap Broken Toe Cast ON



OMG, my favorite cast on can be done on the Passap machine.  I should have known that my favorite knitting machine can do just about  anything by now. ha,ha. Now if it could just cook!

I really need to look at the information I have on my shelves here. I have always liked the Broken toe cast on for the Brother machine. Then I found this one for the passap in the book Going Places , Passap Knitting Machine With the Beginner In Mind by Jan Wold and Jan Mills.

The second picture is how it comes off of the passap machine. It does not look like this when you do it on the Brother and it is because the ravel cord will only be on the back bed of the passap.

Here is how it is done:

Racking handle up and bring your needles into work on both beds in a 1 by 1 arrangement. Use stitch size 1.2 on both beds and knit one row across with ravel cord. Hang your comb in a way that the points of the comb come between the “V” of the back bed stitches . Lift all of the front bed needles and then put them back down in the same  position again. You will see that the stitches drop from the front bed but remain on the back bed with the comb hanging from the ravel cord under the back bed stitches. Now knit one row N/N with your garment yarn and make sure all stitches knit . If some did not knit, hand knit them.Now change the stitch size on both beds to 2.2 and set both locks to CX/CX. Knit 3 rows. Change the locks to N/N and your rib tension and put in your strippers and knit away. Try this, you won’t be disappointed!


Passap 2 Color Fairisle Jacket




I saw this sweater in my folder of  “to do”  items and I thought I would just knit this up one, two ,three. Wrong.  I did my tension swatch and I used 60 stitches instead of 40. That was a good thing. Stitch gauge came out more accurate. I was also lucky because  the pattern fit perfectly into my size so the side seams and shoulders matched.  The yarn is Bramwell and the color is black and cranberry, not red. The pattern is from Machine Knit America Vol 2 #5 and it is called Warm & Wearable by Betty Null. It is a two color fairisle and Technique 180.

I decided to knit the easiest part first, the back. Well, when I got to the underarms I realized that I had to do a cheat sheet for the decreases because you have to knit four rows  with two colors for one row of design.  That took a little time. When I got to the top of the back it says to take the middle stitches off on waste yarn. I realized then that you can’t short row the neck so that there is a one inch drop when doing fairisle on two beds.  Okay, I will do that even though I know I need the one inch drop. This might be different because it is a jacket . Wrong. I needed the one inch drop so I did a cut and sew.

Now I knit the right and left sides but I had to be careful to adjust the weights so that the front pieces didn’t elongate as I was knitting up to the shoulders. I managed that  but then I had to do another cheat sheet because the front decreases were being worked at the same time the underarm stitches were being decreased.

Now I am finished with the fronts and the back and ready to join the shoulders. And this is the part I liked but was afraid of how it would look. You are working on both beds and on the last row of the second color you transfer the back bed stitches to the front bed and knit one row and take off on waste yarn.  THEN… kitchener stitch the shoulder seams! Just like the toe of a sock. Okay, I did that and I really like it. I usually put one set of shoulder stitches on the needles behind the latches and then hang the second set and pull those stitches through and bind off.

Now the bands. I felt the directions for the band were vague sort of like Vogue sewing patterns. Well I have made a ton of sweaters so I thought how hard can this be. Well, I did one band over twice on the neck since it was too wide using just the stitches on the waste yarn. I had to double up quite a few stitches and then attached the band. I did one front band and then the other . I did not like the look of them since they seemed too flimsy. So off they all came and I did them with two strands of yarn and they are perfect weight.  Now I only have the sleeves to do.

Only, hah! They took longer to do then the other pieces! I had to do more cheat sheets and it took forever to do the increases going up the sleeve and then the decreasing on the sleeve cap on double beds. Now I attach the sleeves and there is too much bulk under the arms. So I hung the sleeve seams on the machine taking them in and it turned out perfect. I then serged the inner sleeve seam so it was not thick . The greatest thing about this sweater is that after all of that work it fits me perfectly!  It also looks better since I lost 10 pounds. lol   I found a simple silver closure that I liked for the front at JoAnn fabrics.

I don’t want to discourage anyone because this is easy. It just takes time. 🙂

Sorry if you received three notices for this posting. WordPress has changed its format again!

How to shorten a garment after it is sewn together

finished attaching hem

I went to the ladies house that had come to my house and Sheila and I had a wonderful time.(We also met up with two knitters from our old guild that had stopped meeting and that added to the excitement). Her name is Patty and she was a wonderful hostess. We came away with mugs with our names on them that she had made, Halloween candy, an angel she made with jewelry beads .She gave us a bag to carry it all with her home town on it with a picture of a covered bridge that still stands there complete with the walk for pedestrians to use that runs along  the side. And of course, she gave me the felting machine that I can’t wait to try. She baked cookies and ordered pizza for our lunch. She also had a tray of cheese and crackers and spinach dip! My favorite. We met her husband Greg and her doggie Bosco and her parrot Howie. They all behaved while we were there in her home. LOL

After we stuffed ourselves she took us to her woman cave . It is her whole basement and her hubby only  gets one small corner. She showed us her knitting machines, embroidery machine, her kiln, her potters wheel, her egg cutting station and all of her other hobbies.

Patty told me she had not shortened the sleeves on the sweater yet so I told her I would do it. I decided to document this so that if you ever need to do it, don’t fret, it is very easy. I just had a small hem on the sleeves but if you have ribbing you can do it the same way. Then you would re hang the sleeve and attach the rib. If you don’t like a bound off edge on the inside you could rehang the sleeve stitches and take off on waste yarn and then Kitchener stitch the cuff to it. You can also do this on a sweater length. Maybe you have a long style and don’t want it long anymore. Or you made it from cotton and it is stretching too long . I would encourage all of you to try it once on a tension swatch just to see how easy it is and not to be afraid to try it. If you are using acrylic you might want to lightly steam the stitches where you are going to remove the hem so that the stitches don’t unravel.

Here are pictures and a word document at this drop box link explaining how to do it. 🙂