Archive for March, 2013

Vertical Stockinette Curls


This is a very simple technique that can be knitted on any machine and you don’t need instructions. Yay! I used a tension swatch and you hold it horizontally and pick up as many stitches as you want. I did this on the passap so I hand knitted the first row for the curl and then knitted 9 more rows for a total of 10 at a slightly tighter tension than used for a garment. Then just bind off and the roll curls naturally. If you do several just remember to pick up the fabric the same way so the curls go in the same direction….or don’t and get a different look. In the second picture you will see the first row knitted and if you use sharp contrasts you will see this. So…if you want to hide that, put the curls closer together like I did with the longest one and the one next to it. Or better yet, after picking up the stitches knit one row with the garment yarn and then switch to contrast so you won’t see it at all. (I just thought of this! duh!) On the shorter ones, I left 4 rows between curls. On the first two on the left I left 3 rows between them. On the longer one, I also knitted 12 rows instead of 10 for a slightly larger curl. This technique is in Hand Manipulated Stitches for Machine Knitters by Susan Guagliumi on page 160.




Felted Calla Lily


Well, I went back and knitted and felted a wool calla lily just to see how it would felt . Okay… now what do I do with it?  lol  IF I made another one I would connect the stem at the same time. This stem is not felted a lot but you can get the idea.

More Decorative Raglans

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I came across more decorative raglans  while cleaning up. These are in an article from Machine Knitters Source 1999 Jan/Feb. The article is by Irene Woods.

The reason that 4 is not on the first picture is because I was doing both side decreases and used the ones that were the same every so many rows. There are three more in the article but they look similar to the last ones I did.

See, the reason I am doing all of these samples is so when I die, the next person won’t have to struggle to learn the machines! lol  Just kidding  🙂

Helpful Hint for Machine and Hand Knitters



I saw this technique in Knitting Paradise but lost the link to the woman that came up with the idea. You know how balls of yarn roll around on the floor when you are trying to knit. She suggested a dish and a paper clip on the edge to stop the ball from rolling around .  I went immediately to my kitchen and found a bowl ( really, any container will do) and put the clip on it. Then I went one further and put the clip on the yarn holders on the passap machine. I can’t wait to use it the next time I have a small ball that I want to use up.  Sometimes you can’t find the inside yarn to feed up to the machine and this will help. In the first picture I have one feeding from the outside and one feeding from the inside.

Passap Knitted Rose by Ricki Mundstock, Knitted Cala Lily



This Rose was knitted on the Passap and you can knit it on any machine. It is a pattern by Ricki Mundstock. You can find the directions at this link.


I used two strands of 2/24 . I think it would look nice on a headband, purse or as a pinned flower on a sweater .

The Cala Lilly is from another book and I can’t put my hands on the book to tell you who wrote the pattern. Still not organized! lol I believe there was a mistake in the directions for the top of the lily. I did not knit a stem but it would not be hard and there would be no leaves on the lily so that is less work. I am going to do the Cala Lily on the Brother in wool and felt it. I am sure it will come out really soft and pretty and no visible stitches. Stay tuned for that.(If I can find the pattern again!) lol


Appliques on the Passap and the Brother



This is a really unique way of embellishing a garment. It is in an 11 page soft booklet called Applique Assortment by Marj Campbell. If you are doing a garment you have to decide where you want these diamonds on the garment before knitting it. When you knit the garment you will start by transferring one stitch to the right and left of the middle needle to the needle next to it leaving two eyelets. On the next row and following rows you will move one stitch over and place an eyelet. Count the eyelets as you knit them!! I didn’t and when I knitted the applique, it would not fit! lol

There are 17 total eyelets on each side. Then you take this diamond and hang it with the knit side facing the machine. You hang the bar below each eyelet and the stitch in between on 3 needles. You will knit 2 rows and then at left you pick up a bar on the garment and hang it on the next empty needle of the diamond. You knit one row and then hang the bar of the garment on the empty needle on the right. I knitted this solid diamond on the passap. It has a series of decreases too long to write that give it the design it has. I did make a mistake in knitting the diamond on the bottom right. I did not push a needle out of work and ended up with an extra stitch to decrease. The great thing is you can just take off the machine, undo and re knit without any unraveling of the garment.  I knit the last two samples of the flower and the solid yellow on gray background on the Brother. These can be done on any machine. The solid diamond Is the easiest with no programming. Just hand manipulated stitches. It is a little more involved to do the fairisle designs. You have to set up for a fairisle motif. I have the disk that does it for you and she has over 28 patterns for flowers in diamonds and there are birds, butterflies, elephant, bunny  car and horse.


This is the inside of the garment. No floats are showing.



Passap Seamless Mitered V-Neckband by Penny Ragland

I have not had a computer for five days and I have some items to post. Hope you don’t unsubscribe to my emails! lol

I LOVE, LOVE, LOVE  this seamless neckband. It is in Machine Knitters Source 2000 May/June issue page 50.  It was so easy but while doing it I could not figure out how this was going to come out. You start on waste yarn double bed cast on and then switch to  circular knitting. Then you will knit the band(still circular) bringing pushers into work and out of work on the front bed for the increases and decreases. The band starts with garment color knitting 2 rows and then decreasing one stitch on each bed on left side only 10 times(total of 20 rows.) Then knit two rows at larger tension for turning rows and then start decreases. No pushers on the back bed. When you are finished with the band you will steam the waste yarn only.


Then you cut the last row of knitting that was done N/N setting . the seam opens up. Then you do the same with the cast on edge as in the second picture down.



Then you fold the band and this is what you end up with!


I just did a quick cut and sew and backstitched(quickly and sloppily I might add) to see what the finished look would be. I used a tension swatch as the sweater front and did not even cut a good V in the fabric. I would use this on a sweater but would not do the cut and sew.



This last picture shows the other side of the band and I think that would look even nicer than the side I used.

I believe you can do this on the Brother also though I have not tried it. If you have a Brother, you would use the P lever to left of machine where racking nob is so that the needles are directly opposite one another for the circular rows. BUT when you go to do the regular rows of knitting at the end, remember to change the pitch to H so the needles don’t crash into each other.


Knitting Machine Latch tool versus Hair extension latch tool

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I saw a post on Knitting Paradise from Natalie that mentioned that you could use a hair extension tool for knitting machines and it was cheaper. I stopped at Sally Beauty Supply today and I told the woman about it. She had them. I bought it and here is the difference between the two. The handles are the same length. My latch tool has a fatter handle but I have others that have a little thinner handle. The knitting machine tool hook  is 1 and 1/4 inches long and the hair extension tool hook is 2 inches long. The hook on the hair extension tool  is about half the width of the knitting machine tool. I think this feature is fantastic for the passap machines because of the  width of space between the beds. I also like how small it is for just catching a little bit of yarn to bring the stitch up. I do have a long handled hook that came with one of my machines but the hook is not rounded and it catches on everything else when  you pull up a dropped stitch. I also think the fact that the metal part is longer will be better. When you use the regular latch tool the handle can stop you from reaching far down between the beds. I can’t wait to use it. And the great thing was that it was only $3.59. I don’t know that this would help people that have the Bulky machines. I also would not latch tool off with it since it is so small.

Natalie emailed me and she said she found another hair extension tool on Amazon that has three latches and one handle. Here is the link for that if you are interested.

Passap Machine Mug Rugs


Today was a rainy nasty day and I was feeling lazy. I wanted to knit but did not want to really concentrate. So I knitted some mug rugs . The colors are the football colors for the Browns on three of them. One is Navy and bright red and the lower left small one is hunter green and cranberry.

I have one by my computer where I have my coffee in the morning. I use large mugs for my coffee so I like the larger ones. However, I changed the tension by two dots and that is how I made the smaller one. If I was going to make a lot of these in one day I would put the design in win/crea. However, this is a great lesson for beginners on how to isolate a pattern. The instructions are in the E 6000 Shortcut Manual by Patricia Wetzel under How to make use of “ADD” on page 6. She walks you through every step while entering the pattern on the computer.

Here is how I made mine. I cast on 35 stitches . Both end needles are on the front bed. I used needles 42 right and 76 right. I centered the pattern on needle 58.  I knitted 3 rows(actually 12) or 2 rows(actually 8) between the words mug and rug. I used two strands of 2/24 for each color.

The first row cast on at 1../1.., CX rows 2../2.. and the last N/N row at 3../3.. if you want the smaller one (5″ by 5″) The larger one is 5″ by 6.25 ” and knitted at tension 4 on both beds.

You have to enter the letters you want from the pattern book for passap. You will be programming in three letters next to each other. At this point you follow page 6 or use your passap manual . (or download a design of your own that fits inside of 35 stitches and  29 to 30 rows(29 times 4 rows =116 total knitted rows) . The letters in the passap manual are 12 rows high and that comes to 48 rows of knitting. Now I have to check my manual and see if you can program these letters smaller. Does anyone know?

While you are knitting the plain rows, continue using the two colors so that your stripes are continuous on the back of the mug rug. When the design is finished I knit one row(actually 4 rows of knitting). COR knit CX/CX rows at 2.., COR and knit one row N/N tension 6.  Then I take the carriage back to the right using G/X on both beds. I change the settings back to C/X on both beds and take off on waste yarn. Then I crochet one stitch through the next to the end.

I also have made Beer Mug rugs  and that would be cute in the football colors . I have also done one with a coffe mug in the middle.You be the creator for the design .

The bottom picture is the back of the rug.


Pull Up Trim on the Knitting Machine by Jan Richards


My friend and I went to a seminar in Youngstown Ohio and the instructor was Jan Richards. She is known for sideways knitted sweaters that I never liked until I saw hers. We received hand out sheets and she has a design called pull up trims. I could not picture what this would look like so I tried it and it is unique.

I also did this on the passap but would have been  easier on the Brother . I also realized I have never knit single bed fairisle on the passap and it is time for me to learn. I used the weave cast on and guess what-it did not unravel! Yay. Then I knitted about twelve rows of stockinette stitch. At this point that could be the part that you hang as a hem. I steamed a hem up to show a nice edge before the design starts.

The design consists of four diamonds . The pattern is 48 stitches wide and 18 rows long. There are 7 stitches between the white boxes from diamond to diamond. I used technique 177 I believe which is 3 color single bed fairisle.

In the middle of the diamonds there is a box five sitches wide and six stitches long that will be white stitches. The background is navy and the diamonds are red. You will knit the first six  rows with red and navy. Then you will knit six rows of red and white. When you finish the last row of the white stitches, you will take the first five stitches of the first row and hang them on the last row of white stitches.( This is where it was difficult using the passap since I used the front bed.) Then you finish the last six rows of navy and red. It is pulling the stitches up and on the right side of the fabric you will see the “roll” of white stitches and it makes the red roll also.  She said this can be used as a hem or turn it sideways and it can be used as trim for the front. I think it would look unique around the sleeve band instead of ribbing.

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