Archive for January, 2013

Felted Pucker Lips Lipstick-Makeup Bag


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Okay, you can stop laughing! I know I need to get a life. lol I decided to make a lipstick, makeup bag. Actually the size is perfect. It is 6&3/4 inches  wide and 4& 1/2 inches tall.  I will probably put a little loop on one end and a zipper closure or just magnetic closures(2 of them) I don’t know if this little bag is worth the effort of a zipper.

I fooled around with the other sample and thought the puckered lips might work for a flower. I just quickly crocheted a chain and flower center and leaf. So I went back to the machine and tried a larger one and it came out looking like a large pierogi hanging on the fabric. roflol. I tried another and made up a set of lips before knitting the fabric and put them on the needles of the next pair of lips and now I am really roflol!! It is so gross looking I can’t look at it.

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Felted Pucker Lips


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This whimsical design is also from Susan Guagliumi book Hand Manipulated Stitches for Machine Knitters. On page 142 she has 3-D triangles. The design looks like scales the way they are alternated and knit using just the bottom (lip part) of the design in my picture. But then she does a Five-Stitch Double Triangle and that is what my sample is. They are so easy to do. There are groups of five stitches seperated by three stitches. All needles are in hold while you work on five stitches. You just short row down to one needle and back out again just like doing the heel of a sock-takes no time at all. Then you hang the first row(when you started short rowing) on the same five needles and knit to the next group. When you complete the row you knit one row back to the right and repeat on the same stitches and that makes the top part of the lip. Then I knitted about ten rows between the lips and staggered the next group. It does not look that great knitted (bottom picture) but I think it is cute felted.   I got funny and tried a red pair of lips. I also have two ideas about what  I am going to play around with but won’t tell you what it is just yet.  If you know your passap well and the settings, you can do these on it. I like to felt so I use the Bulky Machine and wool

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Felted Purse with Fish Scale Design


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Here is a purse that I knitted and felted . Yesterday I knitted the purse. I only had this color wool and did not feel like going to the store. It looked plain and it looked like the flap was going to be too small so I played around with the brown wool. I ended up not letting the scales roll when they felted since they would roll up and I wanted it to have the scales going down. I stuffed each scale with some saran wrap so they would not lay flat and give the purse a little dimension.  The purse itself is 51 stitches wide and I added 6 stitches to each side for the sides. I knitted 70 rows and decreased one stitch on each side 7 stitches in every ten rows .I made a front and a back  but on the back piece, before I started the flap, I cast off 4 stitches on each side so there wouild be room for a grommet for the strap . When I got to the point of the flap I  decreased down to two stitches and then I increased out for about 12 rows so that there is a backing at the point to put a metal closure in without it showing on the front. I decided on a  brown leather . This purse measures 11 inches wide and 8 and 1/2 inches tall. It took the longest time to crochet around the scales and I would definitely not take an order for this one!It is for sale in my Etsy shop.

Felted Fish Scales


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Here is the piece lightly felted and I like the way they came out. I would not do different colors. The yellow one looks funny because a stitch dropped and I did not correct it before felting. I think I will give this design a try on a purse flap. This would look better to you if I had done the whole piece correctly. Remember, only the top two rows are properly spaced.

Fish Scales on the Brother Machine by Susan Guagliumi


I was looking for the pattern for the knitted flowers for my slippers yesterday and I saw this design and thought it would be fun to try. It is from the book Hand-Manipulated Stitches fro Machine Knitters by Susan Guagliumi. Once I figured the scale out I was able to go back and do it correctly. The first row shows cast on-terrible. No explanation in instructions. Also, that is when I realized that you had to leave 3 stitches or however many you want inbetween the scales.  Row two I left 3 stitches between the scales. I also knitted three rows of stockinette between scales instead of one like she did in her picture. Row three I had the wrong number of stitches and spacing was off. Rows 4 and five have perfect spacing. I then tried doing the scales in a different color and it worked. I did this sample in wool because I want to see what happens when I felt it. I should have used a looser tension though so we will see. Also, in making this the number of stitches for my final test would be 3 needles on each end and then scales would be 5 stitches with 3 stitches in between them.

If the felting comes out where the scales look like balls, I could do them in acrylic at a tighter tension and let the yarn felt tight around them. I am on a mission-also using up a lot of time! lol!

 

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Felted Slippers for my Niece


My niece loves my slipper socks so I told her she would love these more. I finished them up and have to put the spray on the bottom so she does not slip. The colors are cranberry heather and pink.  I knitted them in cranberry at the start until the middle of short rowing on the heel. Then I changed to pink. This helps to sew the items up and adds the second color to match the flower. And best of all , it stretches the main color so you don’t run out. These are made from Paton’s wool

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Passap Fringe with EX & Racking and 1 Stitch Between Sets of Stitches


This fringe is made using the EX setting and racking but I only left one stitch between the two sets of needles. You can see how much yarn is taken up knitting the three needles on the right. I think you could knit this with 4 needles on the right instead of 6 and it might come out a little shorter.  I like the length of the fringe though  and I left the loops. I think that using the racking and EX settings, I could do the braided fringe and they would be closer together than my first sample.

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Passap Fringe using EX settings and Racking


This fringe was done using the same needle set up except that after casting on the settings are changed to EX on both beds. When you knit, you rack one whole turn every two rows back and forth until you are finished.  It has a very pretty look and it pulls the fringe closer together. In the last picture I have the fringe knitted withEx and no racking  next to this one to show the difference. In the article Irene Krieger  does not really say how to cast on. Or maybe she does and I didn’t read all of the article! lol   I cast on N/N, hang comb, do two rows of CX/CX and one row of N/N. Then I hung one light weight from cast on comband changed to EX/EX.  At the end I don’t bind off the three stitches on the right so they will unravel.

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Fringe on the Passap using EX settings


This fringe is made using the same needle set up but instead of N/N for knitting the trim the settings are EX/EX. It is prettier and the fringe is closer together. I would do this trim again and leave very few needles between and leave the loops on the fringe.  They would hold up better in the washing machine and they look nice also. Look at the second picture before the loops are cut and imagine them shorter. Again, the first picture is how the fringe comes off of the machine. The stitches on the right are open ended for unraveling. The second picture, the fringe is turned to the right and the stitches that were on the right are now on the bottom when unraveled.

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Fringe on the Passap by Irene Krieger


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This is the first sample of fringe on the passap using both beds by Irene Krieger. The first picture is how the fringe comes off of the machine.The needle set up is 3 stitches on the top and bottom bed on the left and leave empty needles in between and then three needles on the right on the top and bottom beds. When you finish, you will only permanently cast off the needles on the left so that the needles on the right will unravel. The last picture is with the strands cut. She states in article that this is a sparse looking fringe. I will let you see the difference on my next samples. These samples are in the May 1995 issue of Machine Knitting News.

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