Here is a purse that I knitted and felted . Yesterday I knitted the purse. I only had this color wool and did not feel like going to the store. It looked plain and it looked like the flap was going to be too small so I played around with the brown wool. I ended up not letting the scales roll when they felted since they would roll up and I wanted it to have the scales going down. I stuffed each scale with some saran wrap so they would not lay flat and give the purse a little dimension. The purse itself is 51 stitches wide and I added 6 stitches to each side for the sides. I knitted 70 rows and decreased one stitch on each side 7 stitches in every ten rows .I made a front and a back but on the back piece, before I started the flap, I cast off 4 stitches on each side so there wouild be room for a grommet for the strap . When I got to the point of the flap I decreased down to two stitches and then I increased out for about 12 rows so that there is a backing at the point to put a metal closure in without it showing on the front. I decided on a brown leather . This purse measures 11 inches wide and 8 and 1/2 inches tall. It took the longest time to crochet around the scales and I would definitely not take an order for this one!It is for sale in my Etsy shop.
Archive for January, 2013
Here is the piece lightly felted and I like the way they came out. I would not do different colors. The yellow one looks funny because a stitch dropped and I did not correct it before felting. I think I will give this design a try on a purse flap. This would look better to you if I had done the whole piece correctly. Remember, only the top two rows are properly spaced.
I was looking for the pattern for the knitted flowers for my slippers yesterday and I saw this design and thought it would be fun to try. It is from the book Hand-Manipulated Stitches fro Machine Knitters by Susan Guagliumi. Once I figured the scale out I was able to go back and do it correctly. The first row shows cast on-terrible. No explanation in instructions. Also, that is when I realized that you had to leave 3 stitches or however many you want inbetween the scales. Row two I left 3 stitches between the scales. I also knitted three rows of stockinette between scales instead of one like she did in her picture. Row three I had the wrong number of stitches and spacing was off. Rows 4 and five have perfect spacing. I then tried doing the scales in a different color and it worked. I did this sample in wool because I want to see what happens when I felt it. I should have used a looser tension though so we will see. Also, in making this the number of stitches for my final test would be 3 needles on each end and then scales would be 5 stitches with 3 stitches in between them.
If the felting comes out where the scales look like balls, I could do them in acrylic at a tighter tension and let the yarn felt tight around them. I am on a mission-also using up a lot of time! lol!
My niece loves my slipper socks so I told her she would love these more. I finished them up and have to put the spray on the bottom so she does not slip. The colors are cranberry heather and pink. I knitted them in cranberry at the start until the middle of short rowing on the heel. Then I changed to pink. This helps to sew the items up and adds the second color to match the flower. And best of all , it stretches the main color so you don’t run out. These are made from Paton’s wool
This fringe is made using the EX setting and racking but I only left one stitch between the two sets of needles. You can see how much yarn is taken up knitting the three needles on the right. I think you could knit this with 4 needles on the right instead of 6 and it might come out a little shorter. I like the length of the fringe though and I left the loops. I think that using the racking and EX settings, I could do the braided fringe and they would be closer together than my first sample.
This fringe was done using the same needle set up except that after casting on the settings are changed to EX on both beds. When you knit, you rack one whole turn every two rows back and forth until you are finished. It has a very pretty look and it pulls the fringe closer together. In the last picture I have the fringe knitted withEx and no racking next to this one to show the difference. In the article Irene Krieger does not really say how to cast on. Or maybe she does and I didn’t read all of the article! lol I cast on N/N, hang comb, do two rows of CX/CX and one row of N/N. Then I hung one light weight from cast on comband changed to EX/EX. At the end I don’t bind off the three stitches on the right so they will unravel.
This fringe is made using the same needle set up but instead of N/N for knitting the trim the settings are EX/EX. It is prettier and the fringe is closer together. I would do this trim again and leave very few needles between and leave the loops on the fringe. They would hold up better in the washing machine and they look nice also. Look at the second picture before the loops are cut and imagine them shorter. Again, the first picture is how the fringe comes off of the machine. The stitches on the right are open ended for unraveling. The second picture, the fringe is turned to the right and the stitches that were on the right are now on the bottom when unraveled.
This is the first sample of fringe on the passap using both beds by Irene Krieger. The first picture is how the fringe comes off of the machine.The needle set up is 3 stitches on the top and bottom bed on the left and leave empty needles in between and then three needles on the right on the top and bottom beds. When you finish, you will only permanently cast off the needles on the left so that the needles on the right will unravel. The last picture is with the strands cut. She states in article that this is a sparse looking fringe. I will let you see the difference on my next samples. These samples are in the May 1995 issue of Machine Knitting News.
I am working on fringe samples by Irene Krieger and she uses both beds so I thought I would try the braided fringe using her needle set up. First of all, it was easier. Did not have to open both beds to hang the twisted fringe. Secondly I used one needle on the top bed and one needle on the bottom bed on the right and the stitches stayed put. One loop was a little larger than the other but not bad. However, the drawback is that you can’t lift the bars on the two rows beneath the needles in work on the left and that leaves a wider space between the fringe. Joyce commented on the last post that the pink was done on the passap because the fringe is closer together. Very observant! I like the one on the passap better because of that.
I’m back! I have been doing some serious cleaning in my house and have not done much knitting. Of course the temptation is strong to quit cleaning! Anyway, I saw this fringe on you tube with Diana Sullivan demonstrating the technique on a Silver Reed machine I believe.
I tried it on the Brother machine and I put the needle on the far right in hold position and then put the yarn under the needle and knitted back. It worked quite well since the stitch to the far right was not knitting well since it was not e wrapped on. So then I thought, this can be done on the passap too. The only difference is that you have to work on the back bed of the passap and you have to open the beds up every four rows to twist the loops and lift the bars from the two rows below. This will make sense if you watch the video. I also saw a video of a woman hand knitting a scarf and she stopped mid row and did one of these braids. She did a whole row of them and it was cute and unusual. I think this fring is so cute and would look good on a scarf or as purse trim….hmmmm….
So….which one did I do on the Passap?