Archive for February, 2012

Felted Purse with Retro Tree Needlefelted Design

This is a felted purse that I showed on a previous blog. I needlefelted a retro tree on the front. I put plastic canvas in the bottom and sides to keep square shape on bottom.  The canvas shows up on the inside of the darker color so I covered it with a fabric with leaves on it. I then decided it needed a safe pocket inside. I felted a seperated piece the size of the back and added some rows and stitches. I had some left to felt the button and put in a magnetic snap. They are easier to open and close than a regular snap. I sewed a seven inche zipper in the pocket . I then cut to the shape of the bag and hand sewed the pocket in with the zipper. It is made with Lion brand fisherman’s wool and the color of the leaves is a light olive green. The handle is

one and a half inches wide and I like this the best . The bag measures 10 inches wide and 7 inches to the edge of the front above the closure. The strap is about 17 inches long from the point that it widens on one side to the same point on the opposite side. It will be for sale in my Etsy shop. I took a zillion pictures and could get a nice background but the color was off. The true color is best shown in the picture with the zipper.

This is the inside of the side of the purse with the fabric covering the  plastic canvas.

First Felted Purse with NeedleFelting Design

This is the first purse I felted . I made this one in 6 seperate pieces . I t is smaller than the other ones I made. I needlefelted it and I found the design on a site called Dreamstime.  I took three pieces of plastic canvas and sewed it on the bottom and the sides and the purse stays square and sits upright. I thought a button would be too much so I sewed in a super large snap with the wool yarn so that it will stay put.

Needlefelting on My Felted Purse

My friend Linda from Craft  Gossip sent me this design about a year ago. I thought it was cute and would look nice on the third  light grey felted purse that I made.

Felted Purse with Pocket for Credit Cards

I made another Felted Purse using Fishermen’s Wool  by Lion Brand. The color is Birch Tweed and it only has 6 ounces of yarn in a skein whereas the others have 7 ounces. I was able to make the whole purse, and the pocket and possibly another pocket. I added another 20 rows for the handles. Before I felted it I turned the purse inside out and picked up stitches on the inside of the back and knitted a pocket to put credit cards in. When you close the flap, it closes the pocket so that they won’t fall out. When I do this again though , I will start pocket at the bottom of the purse and maybe put a flap on so things won’t be lost in it. Or it could be used for the cell phones.

Oh, and with all this felting I am really getting the laundry done. lol 🙂

Felted Purse-Machine Knit

Okay, you know what they say. The third time is the charm. I added ten more stitches to make it wider. By doing this I was able to have wider straps. I like the width. I did add 20 more rows to the length of the strap. The following pictures will show how I made it. I started with the base of the purse49 stitches e wrap cast on and knitted 20 rows. Then I pulled the work forward and did a crochet cast on in front of the work(what would show on the outside) I then ewrapped 12 stitches on the right and left for the sides and hung light weights on those stitches. I knitted 66 rows and took off all stitches on waste yarn. On the back I rehung the bottom. I crochet cast on in front of the work and knitted 66 rows . I took off on waste yarn 18 stitches on each side and continued to work on the flap. I knit 19 rows and then decreased one stitch on each side 3 times and bound off. Will explain bind off later. I then mattress stitched the sides. I rehung the sides with bottom with right sides together and bound those stitches off.

The picture on the left shows the bottom with the crochet cast on so that both edges look the same.

I then rehung 18 stitches from the waste yarn on one side of the front. I rehung 12 stitches for the side and 18 stitches from the one side of the back. Total of 48 stitches. I knitted two rows and decreased every other row until I had 14 stitches on the bed and knitted to row 76 and took off on waste yarn. I then did the other strap on the opposite side. I kitchner stitched the two bands together. I then rehung the stitches on the back (13) that were left on waste yarn and I crochet cast on in front of the stitches and then I bound off using two strands of yarn and then the  purse was ready for felting. This is what it looked like before felting. It is actually pretty by itself but I am going to needlefelt a design just because it is fun to do! The bind off for the closure I bound off using a passap technique.COR and cut off yarn end about 8 inches. On the right hand knit one stitch using this yarn and pull the yarn all the way through after knitting it. Take the next stitch and hand knit through and pull the yarn all the way through. Continue until the last stitch and pull the yarn through. you won’t have a thick edge or knots showing from the last bind off. The finished size is 11 inches wide by seven inches long . If you go to the archives in my blog for February you will see how I finished this purse.

Machine Knitted Felted Purses

Okay, so now I know why I don’t write patterns! I bought a hand knitting pattern  from Carol Bristol Designs and decided I would try to convert to the knitting machine. This is my first purse. I used the stitches and rows from her patterns because I did not want to do a tension swatch.(lazy) I knitted the bottom , sides(all four) seperately and then knitted the handles in two parts joining at the top of the band. I also joined all of the seams . Well, it looked similar but I knew what I had to do to change it.  I would make the strap wider and you can see my joining seams and I don’t like that. So I set out to make another one and wrote that pattern up too.  The next picture is my second one. It is better but not the way I want it yet.

On this purse I knitted the bottom first. Then I rehung it and knitted the front and sides all in one to eliminate the front seam from showing. That worked . I also rehung the top to do the band sides and they are wider in this one. I decreased every other row until I got to the width of the band I wanted  and on the first one I decreased every row. This is more like the picture. Now I am going to make a third one and it will be perfect for what I want. I am going to needle felt patterns onto these once I get the pattern right. The next picture shows how I knitted the bottom and bound off. Then I rehung the bottom and knitted the front and sides. I know what you are thinking. Knit circular. I don’t like circular on my Brother Bulky because of the tension adjustments from one bed to the other.

The picture to the left shows how I knitted the bottom and then rehung the bottom and knitted the front and sides all in one. Then I just had to attach the sides to the bottom which did not take long. Now I am going to work on purse number three and it should come out exactly the way I want it. I need to make it wider also but I like the length of the ones I made. Click on these two pictures to make larger.

Loop Closures Done on the Passap

I found an article in Duet International Magazine Number 18 March 1994 by Pat Cook on an alternative to fastening a garment with a loop and button. I thought it looked unique and there is no sewing. I pulled out some of my swatch samples(I should have picked better colors!) and decided to give it a try. I folded each side of the swatch to act like a double band. I followed the instructions given to make the loop on the passap. It is made using two needles on each bed and tension 5.5 on both locks and CX/CX on both beds. Knit 60 rows and graft the ends of the strand together forming a loop. Then you mark the band with pins for the entry point of your latch tool to pull the loop through the fabric in two places (one near the outer edge and one towards the inner edge. You will have two loops on top side of band and you will pull the outer loop through the inner loop and you are finished.

The next two pictures are the loops open and the underneath of the band showing the inside and the fact that it is not sewn on. I definitely want to try a jacket with this. It was fun.

If you don’t want to knit the cord, the fabric stores have a wonderful supply of cords that you could use to make the loops and attach to your garment. Of course, the fun is all in making them yourself. I did not place pins on my sample so they are not spaced evenly but you can get the idea. Another way of marking the band would be to put thread markers on the rows evenly spaced so that when you finish you know they will be right. Below is the diagram on placing the loops into the garment. Double click on picture to enlarge.

Woven Cables on Any Knitting Machine

I found an article called Single Bed Fabric on the Double Bed by Joan Stiles in Machine Knitters Source Nov/Dec of 2001. It uses the ribber to knit stitches looser so that crossing cables are not so tight. One of the samples was a woven cable. I liked the look of it and tried it and that is the sample to the left. I dropped a stitch on either side of the left cable to make them show up more. Well, they don’t look like the picture.

If you left click on this picture to the left you will see the woven cable in the top picture along with the directions. Well, it does not show up well in the picture but it does not look like mine! When I tried it I pulled each stitch through one stitch on the stitch holder. The look is okay but it looks like nothing but a mistake on the back and the pattern says it looks good on the front and back. So I went back and tried it again.

 Here is the final one I tried and the pattern does not tell you to knit two rows after the first crossing and cross again the same way. Now it looks like the original and it is different looking. Now I will tell you how I did it. Not everyone has a ribber or wants to use it(lol) When it came to the row to do the crossing I took a seperate piece of yarn and knitted the six needles all the way back to out of work position. Then I brought the needles out to hold(all 6 of them) I took the three stitches to the right off on a transfer tool. Then you take the latch tool and go through all three loops on the transfer tool and take one stitch on the left(3 stitches that make up the left side of the cable that are still on the machine) one at a time through all three loops and place on the right three stitches(you must leave the original stitches on the transfer tool. This is very important. Then when you have all three stitches on the right three needles, you take the stitches on the transfer tool and place on the left three needles.. The crossing is complete and you pull the yarn ends snug and e wrap around a needle and knit two rows and repeat the procedure. You can let the extra yarn run up the back of the garment or cut it after each cable. Read the pattern first and then try to follow mine if you try this.

The next picture shows a single crossing of the cable on the bottom of the picture  and then the knitting of two rows and repeating procedure to look like the picture.The picture on the right shows the extra yarn that I knitted the one loose row with. If you ewrap these ends when you knit the row after cable crossing you can just snip off the ends of the yarn( of course, not real short!) I used a wool yarn for the sample and the Brother Bulky Knitting Machine so you could see the results better.

Magic Windows on the Passap with the U 100

This is the last sample in the article in Machine Knitters Source Nov/Dec 1999 by Barbara Corley. It is call Magic Windows. I started this design in 2 colors and I believe there is an error in the pattern. The lower part has too many solid rows in it compared to the picture in the magazine. At the top I eliminated one step and the rows of color were narrower like picture and I added a third color. This can be done in 1,2,3 or 4 colors. At one point in the pattern there are 7 stitches on one needle on the back bed(it makes the puckers between the solid parts) and I never would have believed they would knit off okay. If you are looking for texture, this is the pattern for you.

Below are her instructions but on the last part of the pattern it says color 1 , 4 rows and the beginning of the pattern says 4 rows of color one. I believe this should only be done one time. Left click on picture to enlarge.

Fancy Stripes using the U 100 transfer carriage

These samples are from an article from Machine Knitters Source by Barbara Corley. This is from the same article that the previous samples were from . This is what she calls fancy stripes. She suggests a variegated yarn for the main color. I did that. The sample to the left is every other needle on the front bed. She suggests playing around so I used every fouth needle in the sample at the right. This design has quite a few steps but can be memorized easily if you do it enough.

This sample is the same using a solid color of yarn. The main issue with this design is to make sure the tensions are right so that the loops from the front bed don’t drop off before transfer.

This technique can be done on any machine because it does not use the console. On the U 100 you use Number 4. You use all back bed needles and every other needle on the front bed(or whatever combination you want)

Then you repeat:

2 rows MC, N/GX

1 row CC, N/N

1 row CC, N/GX

4 rows MC, N/GX

1 row CC, N/GX

1 row CC,N/N     After all of these rows you use the transfer carriage to transfer front stitches to back bed. It seems confusing but once you try it you will see the pattern that is happening. This would look beautiful on a jacket. The reverse side of the fabric is stripes. Left double click on pictures to see detail

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