This sample is called Mock Cable(reversible) This is the right side of the fabric. I did not have two pushers on the front bed in the proper position at the beginning and that is why there is a mistake in the lower right. I used a loose tension for the sample. I ued a tension 5 but would definitely lower it and also might put elastic at cuff if the cast on does not look better with a lower tension. This is created by casting on a number of stitches(multiples of three) in 1×1 rib. AfterTubular cast on (N/N,2 ROWS CX/CX AND ONE ROW N/N) the needles are set up alternating three up and three down on both beds. All the pushers on the front and back bed are out of work except for one on each side of the groups of three stitches along both beds. See the picture to the left for the set up of needles, pushers and the lock changes. This looks the same on the back side of the fabric also. Left click with mouse on picture of set up to make larger.
Archive for August, 2011
Today I decided to try a transfer lace sweater using the U100. It is a simple pattern and only requires transfer every four rows instead of every two rows. I did a 2×2 rib and it will have set in sleeves and crew neck. Simple. I did not do cut and sew because it is easier for me to do it on the machine and have it come out evenly than to use my sewing machine (that just died after 30 yrs! 😦 The yarn I am using is Bramwell four ply. Of course, after I started this I recieved my order of some Bramwell duo magic in beautiful colors. Oh well, need to use some of the yarn up that I have. If you click on left button of mouse on picture you will see a blue strand of ravel cord at the bottom. I learned this simple technique for pulling stitches together from casting on. After you do your CX rows for circular cast on, lay a thread of waste yarn across the needles between the beds and gently pull down both ends under the machine and knit your N/N row. When you take the cast on comb off, it pulls the edge together nicely. Then remove it.
I found some notes on rib alternatives that came with theE6000 when I bought it. This is the first one I tried. I don’t like it. You set up needles in 1×1 and do circular cast on.(N/N,CX/CX/N/N) Then change to black strippers and knit 2 rows N/N, and then knit 12 rows CX/CX. Repeat these two settings . It does not stretch much and the ends are finished which I would think would be a bear to sew up when finished with sweater.
This is the second rib I tried and I like it – a lot! It would be nice in cotton as a place mat, cuffs for a jacket, would make a nice scarf since both sides look the same. I will try this with one strand of my Jaggerspun wool. The edges come out really nice and finished. The set up is the same. Cast on 1×1, N/N,2 rows CX/CX, and one row N/N. Switch to black strippers and Knit two rows N/N and two rows CX/CX. Repeat the pattern from regular to cx rows and this is the design you get. Both samples were done with st size 5 on both beds. I have about eight more to try and will post when I get them done.
This is a hand transferred lace edging done on the passap machine. It can be done on any machine this way. This technique is in a Duet International book No.12, September of 1992. The author is Pat Cook. There are five different lace edgings. In this sample, you do 11 transfers and knit two rows after each transfer. You follow symbols for the transfers. It is slow at first until you start repeating and getting the hang of it. This sample starts with 6 stitches and increases to 12 stitches at the widest point and then decrease back in. The yarn I used here is Perla. I should have pinned this sample out to see the detail. Along the straight edge, there is a row of eyelets that you could put a small ribbon in.
I had three days off and not one minute to knit until tonite. Just played around with some lace. The first sample is the drop stitch lace . It’s really quick and easy. It is setting eyelet one with a color and setting eyelet 2 to knit but without yarn. My sample is 50 stitches. Pushers on both beds in work . The pattern is 1016 and technique 256. Knit two rows with the color 1 and pick up eyelet 2 that is empty and knit 2 rows. It drops the stitches from the front bed. Just repeat these four rows and you have a nice lace pattern.
The second sample came out wider and a little bit thicker than the first one. There are no pushers in work on the back bed and all in work on the front bed. It is pattern 1018 and technique 280. On this sample, two rows of color 1 are knitted and then the U100 is used on setting four. Knit two rows again and transfer using the U100 Repeat these four rows. The first fabric above is thinner because stitches are dropped. On this fabric the stitches are transferred to above stitches and some needles have two stitches on them thus making it thicker and wider. I used perla yarn and both samples would look nice on a shell.
This is my first attempt at lace design on the passap machine. It is a lot easier to do this on the Passap than on the Brother machine. However, the Brother has some fine lace patterns that I make my slipper socks with and I don’t think the passap can do that.
This purse is just a square and gathered at the bottom. It is 90 stitches wide. Technique 265 and pattern 1010. I did not cut the tassle at the bottom and left loops because there is a filament of ribbon that will fray. I like the look this way. If you left click on both pictures you will see a glitter from the ribbon. It is sort of a pearl ribbon like some of the Christmas ribbons . This is the evening purse. The pattern is by April Mills, The Knitting Mills, called passap purses and copyright 1994. There is a larger one for daytime and cotton is suggested. I have a couple of colors of this yarn but I don’t know the name. I am thinking of Flash but not sure. It has the texture and weight of diamonte yarn. Tension used was 5/5.. for the body of the purse. I think I will make a little bit shorter next time. Looks nice hanging on a wrist.
One more thing. I learned how to do the ” i” cord on the passap. It is different than doing it on the Brother machines. So now I have that technique and don’t have to go and thread up my Brother to do it.
Knit an I cord for the drawstring SS 5/5.2 by using 3 or 4 needles on the back bed. Set the locks to GX on the front bed, and BX one arrowkey on the back bed. A pusher must be in working position under these needles. Use black strippers and a small weight on these stitches, and knit to the length that you want it.
I spent all day cleaning up my woman cave aka knittting room. I still have a lot more to do. I was putting techniques in a book and I came across the Blister stitch. Of course, the machine drew me in like a magnet. I tried it and it is unusual. I don’t particularly like the larger parts where the supposed diamond is but I like the smaller areas. This is going to take some looking in to. However, I don’t need something that is going to puff up and make me look larger! lol
I made another hat for my friend Linda for her grandson. This is what she originally wanted. I just knitted the same amount of stitches. I changed to stockinette stitch after the one inch or so of ribbing and finished like the previous one. On the other one I had a stitch size of five for the stockinette stitch but I guessed and changed to stitch size 3 for the stockinette stitch so it would not puff out. It was the right thing to do. It fits but it is not as snug around the face so she may like the other one better. Will wait to hear from her.
This is a little hat that I made for my friend Linda for her grandbaby Weston. I adapted Judy Meissner’s pattern to make this and used my Bulky machine. I used the decrease rows on the stockinette for the top shaping and just shortened the ribbing rows using 71 stitches and worsted weight yarn that Linda gave me. My little Buddy doll(who is 20yrs old now!) has an 18 inch head circuference and that is the same as her grandbaby’s head. So….this should fit! Now I have to ask her if she wants another with just one inch of rib and the rest stockinette which is what she originally wanted.
This is a pattern called Gift Collection 1 Short Cut Shapings by Paula Behrens & Jean Acree c1988.In this pattern you get diagrams and numbers and a cassette tape. Thank goodness for Stop and Rewind on the tape deck!! Well, I could not do it without the tape but when it came time to join the yoke I did not understand what they were saying! I know how the outcome was but I would love to see a tape of the procedure. The first picture shows the separate pieces taking them off with waste yarn. It did not make sense to me since they said to bind them off first and then knit 2 rows of same color and then waste yarn. While joining, the waste yarn got in the way and there was never mention of removing it. I will make this again but will change it a lot. The sandwhich is how it is joined but the cast off edge is on the side that shows-don’t like it. I will take the yoke off on waste yarn,reverse and hang it so the front looks better. The appliques are not spaced evenly because I have not sewn them on yet. Had to get the sun while it was out! The yarn is estillo.